KiwiRS4T

Why are you using a 1.3 bar radiator cap? Sounds like your engine is getting too hot. Do you have an oil cooler?

If you're not going fully balanced 8000rpm I believe people do keep the stock bottom end including pump without drama. You would need the Neo ecu and loom and probably nistune the ecu. If you can keep the neo block intact there should be a market for it. Some people have literally bolted the new head on with the minimum mods to make it work but I think most people strip the block and do rings and bearings (and preferably little end bolts with line boring).

Actually despite my initial scepticism it looks as though all affected cars are eligible to have their airbags replaced if necessary. Either the airbag manufacturer and/or the car companies will be paying for all or most of the cost. The AA in this country is advising owners who need the recall to contact the agents. First the manufacturers are supposed to list the models and numbers of the cars requiring recalls and then they will start contacting owners. The MOT in NZ is going to supply details of imports to the franchise holders who would otherwise not have this information but the AA here is suggesting owners, especially those who have not bought their cars new from the franchise holders should contact them as soon as they find out if they are on the wanted list. So watch this space!!

Engine swap should be straightforward although would be good if you could get the loom with the neo engine. You would want some better brakes and a new radiator and go straight for a FMIC. As the Stagea was probably an auto you need to change the spigot bearing in the crank.

They used to have a video on their site of one a dyno making about 900hp but haven't seen anyone actually post one up here.

See if you can do a deal with Hypergear - he may have a use for your OP6 and have a more suitable turbo for you.

K Sport or D2 for a fraction of the price.

As the car was never sold in Australia (or New Zealand for that matter) I doubt any dealer would be volunteering to undertake the recall. You could allways contact Nissan Japan.

Don't know about the GTR but in the Stagea the Walbro is thinner than the stocker and has to be packed out in the cradle but just a simple adaptation...

Sorry don't know. At a guess one would be power in and the other signal out or alternatively one to ecu and one to speedo. Try a multimeter on each with car stationary.

Have you considered D2 or K Sport brakes? Straight bolt on - I got the 330mm 8 pot and with Pagid pads pulled my 1800kg Stagea up time after time on the track. Duncan has been racing them for years on his Skyline.They do a 356mm version too.

That would be ideal. PM'd

Yep: http://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-WALBRO-F90000262-400-LPH-Fuel-Pump-Universal-In-Tank-includes-Kit-/320840099349?hash=item4ab38f6615&vxp=mtr

I am quite computer challenged. If someone will volunteer to make copies I'll post it to them so long as they post it back fairly quickly.

I have acquired a full English language service manual (on DVD) for the J31 Teana/Maxima 2002 - 2008. It came out with a front drive tranverse VQ engine so if anyone wants specs etc for the VQ35DE (pretty sure there are no 23DE in Stageas) let me know and I can copy and send the relevant pages.

I have a Walbro GSS341 255LPH in my tank and they are rated at 500hp but I have only run mine to about 300hp - after that I got a surge tank and another pump so now the Walbro is just a lift pump. I have my doubts that it wold be work at 500hp but if you get a brand new one and directly wire it with a relay to get full battery voltage you would probably get pretty close. The next one up is the 400lph pump which costs about 50% more and is rated at 750hp. I would doubt the stock pump would do the job and of course being quite ancient now it could fail at any time.

If you can find a crossflow FMIC before your tune stick it on and see what you get. Clean your coils and gap your plugs down to .8mm. If you are far short of your goal get a Hypergear turbo and leave everything else as is. 550 injectors are heaps big enough Have you got a really good tuner?

http://www.mongoose.com.au/vehicle-installation-manuals/mongoosemanual.pdf

Why are you removing the carbon canister? What's after the noisy bov - replace the factory air cleaner with a cheap pod filter? I'll say this only once then I'll leave you alone...If you don't know exactly what you are doing and why then do some extensive research first on here or Google the questions and make sure you know exactly what the various components you are dealing with are supposed to do so that you can be sure any modification is a step forward rather than backwards. Here's three suggestions from me (all relatively expensive as useful mods usually are): Fit a three inch turbo back exhaust. Front Mounted intercooler (no FFP required) Depending on where you are ... a Nistune chip for your ecu and a good tune.

What?

Some people put a check valve in one line and it works for them. I have no check valve - my theory is at full WOT pressure escapes via both hoses and I haven't found an uphill straight long enough to fill my 2L catch can so when I lift off it drains back fairly quickly via the bottom hose. But others have a check valve in one line with no problems.

6boost, RIPS, Sinco Custom

Well its easy with an RB26 sump but I imagine with a steel sump you could have an elbow facing up til its well clear of the oil level so long as it doesn't get in the way of the crank etc.

Are you also replacing the pump? Some of the original 30 pumps do not fit over the collar. Pay you to check first.