KiwiRS4T

According to Google: www.rktuning.com/html/contact.html Address: Unit 4 Nashlea Farm Poors Lane North Daws Heath Benfleet Essex SS7 2XF Telephone / Fax: 01702 557124. Business hours: 8:30am to 5:30pm email address: [email protected]

I put an R32GTR diff (esentially the same as the R33GTR) into my Stagea. It works fine and makes no strange noises. I wanted the GTR axles as well (for strength) so put the whole shebang in - brakes and all. If you want to just put the centre in I am sure it has been done many times but note the 6 x 1 bolts on the GTR and also check where the speed sensors are (don't know where they are on a GTST). When you search try using Google e.g. "r33 gtr diff into gtst"

Sounds like it could be a plumbing problem. At cruise the oil shouldn't be getting hot enough to open the thermostat to send oil to the cooler. How have you got the cooler orientated in relation to the oil lines and are you sure the thermostat is plumbed correctly?

Yep I'm one of those who prefers function to stance but hey its your car - go for it. But I doubt you'll fit 19 x 11 with 10P without modifying the guards and perhaps not even then if its fouling on the inside.. Try this site: http://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=215&aspect=45&diameter=17&wheelwidth=7&offset=45&width2=235&aspect2=40&diameter2=18&wheelwidth2=9&offset2=35#content

What does your water temp do? Does your oil temp go nuts when you push the car hard? What does your oil pressure say at cruise? Always use Motul 10W 30 myself - if nothing else it can stand the heat .

Had that problem. I think changing to Google Chrome fixed it.

Just how big are your brakes? I cleared my 330mm D2s with TE37 17 x 9

Camber is not a solution for wheels that don't fit. The wrong camber will upset your handling and chew out tyres. Modifying the guards is the way to go. Or getting wheels that fit. BTW the smallest tyres you should run on 11in rims is 275 - better is 285 or 295 (max 305)

Even more scary is the real possibility of hackers taking over an aircraft.

What's your factory part number? It may well fit but they don't know so they say it doesn't to cover themselves. Here's another one I found - does the factory number it quotes match yours? http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/other/auction-920614276.htm

That's what the restrictors are for - to minimize excessive oil in the head - and if you have a 2 litre catch can that's the most that can fit so if you have an extended sump (8-9 litres?)_ you are unlikelyu to empty it. As soon as you lift off the oil in the catch can should flow back pretty quickly. If you have an aftermarket ecu you should be able to log the oil pressure but I doubt you are emptying the sump now.

Or send yours off to be cleaned and tested.

The OEM plenum is, as has been pointed out, the one that came with the car. No Nissan didn't make a FFP for you . The one on the GTR is a whole other ball game with the individual throttle bodies. Your best bet is to contact Hypergear, tell him what you want and buy what he suggests. Better still have a read through the Hypergear thread first. And when you have saved the money for the turbo save up enough money for a first class tune or else all your other money is wasted.

That looks good. Let us know how it performs!

I haven't heard about any RB30 crank problems but if you want to rev an RB30 way beyond its designed speed its long stroke starts to make itself felt. You need to make sure the whole thing is well balanced from clutch to damper. What revs do you plan to use anyway? If you are going way over 7,500 most people would get a suitable ATI damper or suchlike. Most cheap builds just don't rev the hell out of them and still make good power.

Yep that's the way to go although you may have to readjust your solenoid to retain the same boost levels. If you have access to your ecu you can do this yourself and once done the tune will be unaffected.

Top is better for the reasons on the pics. Method 2 gives a wider range of boost and is therefore less subtle. Method 1 gives more precise control over a smaller range which is why you try to set up the springs to get fairly close to what you want and use the solenoid and ecu to make fine adjustments. And why its better to go for just one boost level. If you want less boost just don't put your foot down so hard.

You could try leaving a note in here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/forum/14-ideasfeedback-bugs/

Your symptoms are typical of oil getting past the rings, although the valve stem seals are still a possibility. How about doing a compression test and/or a leak-down test?

Check with your tuner first. When my Link was installed the O2 sensor was removed as the ECU takes care of the idle and cruise. You may not need to spend the money.

Just to clarify this is not my work ... I was just quoting Peter (GTRPSI) but I assume same as you. You could confirm by counting the plates in a newly opened box - if there are 7 friction plates then yes they are the I plates and the other 12 are the O plates. PS please confirm when you have done this count!

There was a thread a couple of years ago: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436604-transfer-case-rebuild/?hl=%20transfer%20%20case%20%20rebuild and this is the business end: Transfer case rebuild Its not the adding of plates. Its the arrangement of them There are 19 plates in the standard setup, 12 outers and 7 inners to make up the clutch pack, Outer = O, Inner = I when reading the layout below..... Stock is IOOIOOIOOIOOIOOIOOI Full max grip rearrangement would be IOIOIOIOIOIOIOIOIOI You only need another old transfer case to rip the plates out of to rearrange your old setup, scavanging the extra inner plates to use, you need to select ones of the right thickness to end up with the correct end clutch pack thickness so some mix and matching is required. You don't need to go full grip, you can make up your own arrangement of plates like something in the middle like IOIOOIOOIOOIOOIOIOI Same theory as playing with a Cusco LSD clutch pack arrangement, see page 9 below....... http://www.cusco.co....Guide Final.pdf

I doubt very much that the Stagea has different cams from the Skyline. I have attached a Tomei chart which shows that the R33 DE and DET have the same cam while the R34 Neo DET engine has a higher lift on the exhaust than the DE. The last of the S1 Stagea came out with the Neo engine (hence the later CAS). Of course the R33 and Neo cams are not interchangeable (solid lifters on the latter). Sorry can't attach the chart - hopefully link follows: http://www.tomeiusa.com/_2003web-catalogue/e090_camshaft-specs.html

I wouldn't like to think you were being kept awake at night unnecessarily so just how much more RWKW is your mate's Skyline making with the self same turbo, exhaust, return flow fmic and fuelling system as your Stagea? AWD will take at least 10kw from your figure and a different dyno and operator could make twice that much difference again or more. Boost (p.s.i.) is a measure of resistance not efficiency. If your mate has a different cooler then measure the airtemps at the inlet and outlet to see whose is better. The length of the piping will make a minute difference to lag and no difference to max power. All power to the "boost brothers" but Trent and Tao have a pretty good track record. And by the way just how much power do YOU think your Z32 afm can handle (although actually Trent can probably push more than its rated maximum though it)?

The Z32 AFM is a limiting factor whether you believe it or not - just ask Trent. I was not bagging the Nistune (although it works better on some engines than others) but just pointing out that as an alternative to getting a better AFM you could ditch it altogether if you get a Link.