KiwiRS4T

As above. Search.

There have been literally millions of words written about this. Do a basic search first.

"It is this same line of thinking that the stock regulator somehow is able to maintain proper pressure (even if you install a high flowing pump) that got me into trouble by installing a higher flowing pump in the first place without being prepared for it. It doesn't do that based on what I have seen. If you fit a 400lph pump, the fuel pressure will be too high running the stock reg on stock fuel lines no matter what. Maybe there is something wrong with my setup, but I suspect that is how it would be in any car running the the stock reg." The "somehow" is by means of a spring. I have a Walbro fed surge tank with a Bosch 044 pushing more than stock flow through my still stock FPR. Do yourself a favour and do the simple no cost exercise of blowing though your return line before you go to the trouble of fitting a new pump.

If you have a mint exterior why smash it up drifting? Sell and buy a 2wd car.

Stop trying to find an abstruse technical problem and just clear out your fuel line.. If by some chance it is not in fact blocked I can sell you an OEM GTR fpr for $10 plus postage.

Flow and pressure are two different things. Walbro should be fine. Check for blocked lines (yes take the petrol cap off)!

Spit it out man - what pressure are you reading? What pump do you have? Have you tried pushing air though your return hose? If your pump was installed years ago why should it be too big now? What have you changed?

I've seen earth kits put on them but don't know if they make any difference. Ethanol will help to clean out your tank but you will need to change your in-line filter now and again soon. What kind of tunable ecu do you have?

Sure - my comments were more directed at Jase with his big wheels and small tyres. You just need to get your wheels away from the suspension and then take to the guards with a big hammer!

What happens when you throw it into a corner? You can get the same fitment and the same rubber on the road with 18 x 8in and 235 tyres:

^^^what he said. Take out your in-line filter and cut it in half to see what its like inside.

Well done! That should do the job!

You should have heaps of fuel for that power level. Fuel rail and FPR "should " be up to it. Have you tested the fuel pressure? Maybe you have struck a dud pump. Have you wired the pump for full battery voltage? Have you seen the afr chart? Is it possible that it is a problem with the tune?

I think the R34 GTST ecu may well work. I don't have the receipt anymore but I think my Link was a GTST plug in. The pinouts for the R34DET and the STagea S1 are virtually the same. I can send them or post them up if you need them. And pressure test your system for leaks.

From the Gates website: " 85 percent Ethanol with 15 percent gasoline is not an aggressive fuel with respect to rubber compounds" Just make sure you change your filter early and then again before much longer.

Manual S1 you can install pretty much any ecu you like. I only have personal experience with the Link but there are plenty of options. You are possibly suffering R&R if you have made some mods such as increasing boost.

If you're so lazy just leave the stock lines alone. They will be fine.

Do a compression test. Its surprising how well an RB will go on 5 cylinders.

I drilled and tapped the compressor housing and screwed in a nipple.

Tried emailing them?

For a start you need to ( or get the machine shop to) measure the bores for wear and out of round and the bearing clearances though if it doen't need a rebore and new pistons you might as well do rings and bearings. Have a listen to what the machine shop says but don't agree to anything until you have considered all the options or you could be up for a $10k plus recond.

Two points: I believe the Blitz Access ECU is not tunable so about as much use as a Mines ECU or a paper weight. You say "stock boost" but if you have bigger than stock turbos you will be moving a lot more air at the same boost figure. The answer is get a proper ecu and a tune.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/?&hl=sk+oil+control Read the first and last 10 pages and then Google "Catch can for RB" - that should give enough ideas for a while!

Plugs should be fine.0. 8mm gap is a good idea anyway. Sure you have 2 FPRs? The dampers look very much like FPRs. I have a GTR OEM fpr you can have (actually you can have the whole rail if it fits your setup). Just to be clear the fuel feed goes to one end of the rail and the regulator goes on the return end.

You cannot rely on any mail order chip. There are no good suppliers and Speedlab are far from Nissan experts. . Preferably you need a Nistune or aftermarket ecu but there are tuners able to make a chip for your car tuned in your car (on a dyno or on the road). Plenty of people say "my car runs great on my mail order chip" but they haven't dynoed it. If you can hear detonation its pretty bad but if you can't hear it without the right equipment it can still be bad enough to wreck your engine. Stock FPR should be fine if you can actually tune your engine. Yes gap your plugs down. What plugs are you running? Try giving your coils a good clean and spraying with insulation if you can't afford quality new ones atm.