KiwiRS4T

Compressions are ok. Have you tried this: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110431-diy-aac-valve-cleaning-idle-reset/ (not sure if it applies to RB20DET) Maybe time to pull the injectors out to clean and test.

That's logical. In the pinout chart Pin 24 is a white/blue cable marked ignition switch signal. Pin 20 is a grey/red cable marked ignition switch start signal. Pinouts WGC34_Series_1_-_STAGEA_RB25DET_Auto_ECU_ translated.xls Pinouts R34_ecu.pdf

Its all in the tune. If you are worried you can do a compression and/or leakdown test but there is no way you can get more power from your engine without increasing loads. The amount of boost is irrelevant - either you want more power or you don't. Plenty of people have increased the power on their unopened engines - some last for years some don't. The only thing you can do usefully is use quality synthetic oil and get a really good tune.

People often look for highly technical reasons for overheating.. My first thought always is to take the radiator (or the whole car if you are so inclined) to a radiator repair shop. They will take the top tank off and clean out the core, replace the top tank if necessary (many are plastic) and tell you if a recore is indicated. They can flush the block and replace the thermostat. If you haven't done this in recent history it is worth doing anyway and will very often fix your problem.

Throw the turbo timer away. How do you see where you're going driving with the bonnet up?

Sell to a P Plater and buy a GTT

Boost leaks can be hard to spot. Make a plug and apply pressure to be sure.

I don't think the dipstick tube compares with two half inch vents.

Don't forget water, food.

For fuel my preference is for upright 20L containers like this: You don't have to empty the boot to get them out and they are easier to use than the flat type (usually used for boats) like this:

Here is some info from GTRUK - it may (or may not!) help you: Asim is correct; the Attessa control module does require the RPM signal and an Earth to function properly. However these two items are shared within the factory ECU wiring loom and are not wired exclusively for the Attessa. The RPM signal (pin 7) drives the rev counter and TPS and engine temp sensor share the same earth output (pin 30). Therefore so long as the RPM and Earth is wired correctly to relevant pin location on the ECU they will by default be giving an output to the Attessa unit. The only exception to this rule is the TPS (+ve) signal which is not shared; the ECU takes the input from pin 38 and then feeds an output to the Attessa via pin 56. I’ve attached a copy of the diagram that I found on the net. I used the diagram to create an adaptor harness so that I could keep the factory loom intact and simply Plug n Play with my new ECU.

I didn't install my Link but I believe it was necesary to take a signal directly from the TPS. ECU pinout attached if it helps Pinouts WGC34_Series_1_-_STAGEA_RB25DET_Auto_ECU_ translated.xls Pinouts R34_ecu.pdf

I didn't install my Link but I believe it was necesary to take a signal directly from the TPS. ECU pinout attached if it helps

What they are saying is don't do it. Mail order chips are a lottery and you should save up for an aftermarket ecu or a Nistune solution

You are going to put RB25 injectors in your GTR? Why don't you just get a new RB26 injector loom? What kind of injectors - apart from the Neo they are all sidefeed. And for the record I can't see it working.

If it is a stock car I believe you will find the number on the blue plate on the firewall (although R31 is a few years ago so I can't be sure about that).

All GTRs come out with a rear LSD. So either its faulty or someone has put something else in your car.

What kind of ecu do you have? Your best bet is to get a Mac valve controlled by the ecu if it is capable. Like this: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=985722031

Thermostats usually will not close completely but will allow some flow until they reach opening temperature when they open right up.

You could get some 330mm for the rear: http://ksportusa.com/b2c/proddetail.php?prod=BKNS170-433SO Just get some decent pads.

Have you compared Stoptech to AP? http://www.stoptech.com/

Don't forget E=mc2 or in the case of our cars weight and speed matter so KW is relevant . My Stagea weighs nearly 1800kg and stopping it lap after lap from 250km/hr was not possible with GTT brakes although they were fine on the road. With D2 front brakes (330mm) and GTR rears with Pagid pads problem solved. I am sure they would be adequate for most Skylines unless exceptionally fast.

K Sports (D2 in my case) are fine for the track. Just get something better than stock for the rears. What kind of car have you got and what brakes are on the rear? How many KW do you have or plan to have in the near future?

What exactly is the compression issue? i.e. what are the compressions ? Over here a good Neo engine is $2k so don't go rushing into a rebuild.. If you want an expensive hobby go ahead and spend $40k on your car. If you want a fast well handling Stagea take your time and buy one already done for way less than half that and sell your present car and be ahead $$$$

^^^what he said