KiwiRS4T

To be quite safe you should run the same tyres front and rear although small differences will occur anyway as tyres wear. It is the rolling circumference that matters not the width. The aspect ratio (the 45 in your tyre size) is not the height of the tyre - it is the height expressed as a percentage of the width so if you have different widths you will also have different heights which can make a significant difference to your rolling circumference. This can result in damage to the atessa (google for the long explanation). The damage in the long term can be serious in the short term it can make for unwelcome vibrations and shuddering. If you haven't already got the tyres you may be able to get the figures from the makers specs but really you are better off to run the same tyres front and rear.

Nope

It is the rolling circumference that matters so you will need to measure them. They will be different but maybe as Josh says not enough to cause a problem.

Or clean the MAF or check its wiring and plug. And/or disconnect the battery - clean the terminals and reconnect securely.

Nope its a massive file. Happy to post it.

If you are referring to the Hybrid Performance manifolds from NZ - Google and you will find a number of posts (there is a thread on here somewhere). In summary I think people believe they are value for money (were quite cheap ) although some people said they had to plane the mating surfaces flat.

Unlikely to be plugs or coils. Could be the ecu temp sensor. If you look where the top hose meets the block you will see two temp sensors. One has one wire (that's for your temp gauge) and the other has two wires - that's the one that goes to the ecu. I don't know of any easy way to test it but they are not too expensive to replace if you get one from an auto parts shop or auto electrician rather than Nissan. But before you do that (if you are poor) you could try cleaning the AAC valve. This is a fiddly job but it doesn't cost any money. There at least two tutorials on how to do it. Here's one (don't know if it applies to the Neo but you'll soon find out: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110431-diy-aac-valve-cleaning-idle-reset/

Short story: How Do Vented Gas Caps Work? By Steve Smith eHow Contributor Pin Share Tweet Share Email Save 6 Shares & Saves Vented Gas Cap Function The vented gas cap is designed to vent small amounts of air into the car gas tank line. The vented gas cap has a one-way release valve that is pressure-activated. When the pressure reaches a certain point (defined by so many pounds per square inch) the valve opens by a very small amount, relieving some of the pressure. In this case, the pressure is formed on the outside of the tank, due to the vacuum formed from the displacement of fuel on the inside. After the pressure inside the line equalizes, the pressure valve closes. The valve is set to balance the pressure with the surrounding atmosphere. Air is allowed in, but no fumes are allowed out of the gas cap, because of environmental concerns. Inner Parts The vented gas cap has a chamber under the plastic cap handle that inserts into the fuel fill line. The cap screws shut, and this chamber fits relatively close inside the intake tube of the fuel line running to the tank. On each side of the chamber are small openings where air is able to enter. These chambers lead to the pressure valve, which, as the level in the tank decreases, allows air inside to remove any possibility of a vacuum forming. How it All Works Because the fuel tank is pressure-driven from a fuel pump and gas naturally expands and evaporates, a large amount of pressure can build up inside the fuel system over time. This second kind of pressure is taken care of through the operation of the fuel pump mechanism, as the vented gas cap needs to be the one-way flap to keep evaporated gas fumes in. The long story: http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/151 d Links

Don't be such a wuss. Take your shiny R34 to the track. Everyone is going the same way and there should be few surprises. You can spot the idiots and keep out of their way. Go to the tracks that have decent runoffs. There is no "safe" speeding - depending on your definition of speeding. There are just degrees of risk. If you have a catastrophic failure somewhere north of 200km/hr you have a better chance of surviving it on the track. On the road there are random people, farmers backing trucks out on to a road who are not expecting vehicles to be arriving at 280km/hr (I have mates who regularly exceed 250 km/hr on their big bikes - no one I know has died but others do), there are lamp posts, patches of bad road surfaces etc etc. Obviously there are places where risks are relatively low... an empty motorway in the wee small hours, back country roads at night etc. and speed limits are not magic numbers but the faster you go the less options you have. Apart from promoting track days as a way of getting your speed thrills I am not telling anyone how fast they should drive but I am asking you to think carefully about your driving. And don't drink and drive! Following my own advice (and for everyone there is also an element of pure luck) I have stayed alive for 67 years.

Fan conversion a retrograde step in most cases.

B*gger me you caught me out. I didn't know that the Teana also came out with a QR20DE as well as the VQ23, 25 and 35DE which i would have learned if I had scrolled further down on my CD. Guess its too late now but PM me your postal address if you want a copy of the CD (English language Nissan Teana workshop manual).

For what its worth there is now a section for VQ models V35 and V36 (fourth from the top). I have an English language workshop manual for the Nissan Teanna which had a range of VQ engines but I haven't worked on them so know nothing. Here is a pic of the cam gears:

The R34 GTR atessa is more sophisticated than the R33 or R32 in that it takes yaw rate in to consideration. Presumably the Midori unit is an upgrade of the stock sensor. Google for an explanation of yaw rate if necessary.

9 in wheels: 235 min, 245 or 255 recommended, 265 max Don't know what your local regs are but would think you would not attract attention if your tyres were not stretched and within the guards.

Are your new lines the same type of connection as the calipers? When I fitted some GTT brakes some years ago I had to convert from banjo to screw in type (or the other way round - can't remember now) and had to remove the olive from inside the caliper.

Sure why not. On the other hand if you have 6 good OEM ones why not use those?

Tyre and wheel sizes make no difference to your power output. Unless you have money to burn just stick your old FMIC on. If you want a significant power increase save up for a better turbo. At that point you may or may not need a better fmic. All return flows are not created equal. Some are a lot better than others. Yours might be fine.

Why did you put a smaller cooler on? Most of your changes would not lead to better performance - coil packs simply restoring the status quo, if you had enough fuel before a better supply will not help, Major improvement would be holding boost up but this is countered by smaller FMIC so result is not surprising.

What do you mean you had no choice? I see there are many radiator repair shops in Brisbane such as http://www.reddevilradiators.com.au/index.php/radiators

Never assume. Replace the hose with a new one and see what happens.

Top tank is not repairable but can be replaced. Would you take your computer to a carpenter? Go to a radiator specialist.

You may have to conclude that people around here have stopped buying them and that you may have to be the one to find out if the problems have been fixed!

Read the RB30 build PDF in the first post in the RB30 section. Also read the RB30 section in the turbo upgrade results and you will find lots of people have done it and what they did and used.

Who told you that it was unrepairable - a mechanical workshop or a radiator repair shop? Find another radiator repair shop for an opinion. I have had new tops put on my radiator for a lot less than the price of a new radiator and I have also bought new OEM radiators which have been fine and not unduly expensive (around $300). If yours is original it is 14 years old. Personally I would buy a new stock radiator from a radiator speialist. A radiator shop will replace the anti freeze/conditioner and bleed the system. Gauges are great but if they are going to cost you an arm and a leg just check your water and oil levels once a week.

If you have broken a pivot I would be inclined to put the stronger one in. Its not surprising that the slave cylinder has popped out if your pivot has broken. Clean it up and put it back together. Check that your crank seal is not leaking. Gently jack up the front pulley until the cylinder head hits the fire wall while checking to see you don't damage anything in the process (watch the top hose). Put a jack under the gear box and make sure you have a mate to help you.