KiwiRS4T

You may be fine with the pistons you have. If you can calculate the CR for the 26 head then you can substitute 52cc for the 26's 63cc and see what you come up with. I am guessing it will be around 9.6:1 which should be fine or you could just use a thicker gasket to reduce it slightly.

Be sure to do one at a time so you know what fixed it. And if you need a new pump forget about the OEM unit you can get a better one cheaper from Scotty: scotty nm35

If money is tight sell the following to buy things you really need: Greddy style manifold, 80mm throttle body, fuel rail, unknown turbo, OEM ecu, Tomei fuel regulator and all of 9 What you need as a minimum: Link G4 computer + mac valve for boost control OR PFC + Z32 AFM and boost controller Decent turbo with (if necessary) wastegate mounted on stock manifold. Assuming you are running on petrol some 550 side mount injectors 3in turbo back exhaust Probably a set of new OEM or Splitfire coils. Good intercooler (you don't say what kind you have) Good tune

Its been a while now. Pay for a courier and send it to Hypergear if you want it done by the book.

Depends what you call a flat spot. There is normally a dip on the RB25 as the VCT changes over. Did you gap the plugs down to 0.8mm? Give the coils a good clean? Put your location up on your profile so maybe somebody close by can take a drive to compare or point you to a good RB workshop if there is really a major fault.

Here ya go: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/nissan/auction-1032090437.htm

Or this: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/specialist-cars/competition-cars/auction-1012208351.htm

Have you tried a straight edge and a set of feeler gauges? They may be fine already.

Stand well back when you push the button - your car may explode in a ball of fire.

I can get windscreens for my C34 Stagea so I am sure that they will be available for the NM35. I am not sure what you mean by "firms that your insurance company use". Get into your phone book and on the internet and look up every auto glass supplier and ask them if they can help. I am sure that someone in NZ would ship you a windscreen but it would not be cheap and seems silly. If you really can't get one in Britain ask Jesse Streeter if he can get one to you: http://jessestreeter.com/ P.S. are you a film director?

Yes ...PM me

Why guess? Separate your exhaust at the bolts and either fix the valve or remove it completely.

Its very unusual for the main hub nut to be loose - they are tightened to some monstrous torque number and usually very hard to get off so I would say your problem was the loose nut. However being loose may have damaged the bearing.

Can't see any problem installing the Quaife in the front since the front diff is not computer controlled.

Or just cut a length of wood 26.5 in long and hold it against your rotor as you turn it around. And do you really need those inner guards?

I don't know what a series 2TI is but if its a Skyline you will need to find a twin cam head etc and do a proper RB30 conversion as per the section above.

From Google: stocker injectors are 370cc and .63ms latency

A VH41 is bigger......

To me the Porsche rotors say " I am covered in fine cracks and perforated with holes - I am about to break apart soon"!! I like the $23,000 Audi brakes but not a fan of drilled rotors.

Why the extended studs?

Stock fuel rail works with stock regulator. What are you trying to achieve?

I would think 84 deg is fine. Do you have an oil cooler for track use?

NO LONGER FOR SALE - THANKS

Just try some random bolts til you get one to fit , measure the length and then go to an engineer's supplies store to buy one.