The tuner may be right to say it doesn't have a "pre-mapped" cold start function but that just means he has to set it up himself. You will have to leave the car with him overnight so he can start it from cold.
What plugs are you running?
Have you got the best tuner in Tasmania (no point in cheaping out)?
And out of interest what power does it make?
I use Motul in the RB3o but only the best fully synthetic. On the other hand I don't dump it after every track day but get it tested and do at least 10,000km
Now is the time to replace it with a Quaife LSD
http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440091-rebuild-gtr-front-diff/
but if you decide to keep the open diff you can just put new seals in or go to town with all new bearings. I have a list of the bearings with Nissan Part numbers but I can't remember what modfel GTR they fit. If you quote just one part number to a Nissan dealer they should be able to tell you.
Front diff bearings and seals text.doc
That sounds like a load of cobblers. My "Nismo" shocks are just rebranded Bilsteins and the local Bilstein dealer services them. Your Ohlins will similarly be rebranded and there is no logical reason why the agents shouldn't service them. Maybe you could try phoning or emailing Mines.
Also email Ohlins head office.
Not tyre size - rolling circumference. If wheels are the same diameter and width no problem. If different widths you have to do some calculations or if you are lucky there will be a chart to read off.
Consumer (NZ) just tested HD dash cams. Prices ranged from $109 to $695 but none was considered good quality. It was not possible to read a number plate at more than 5 metres and less than that only if relative speeds of the cars were much the same.
Best of these was DOD LS460W ($250 - $300)
PS there are apparently some apps for your smart phone that wills do the job assuming you can get a suitable forward facing holder.
Should be no damage - just possibility of overflow and spilling. You could let some out via the bleed nipple or suck some out with a tube. Does your car have Hicas or is it the Atessa reservoir?
Is it possible it just refers to the different ratio options (Option 1, 2 or 3)? ... or (just to prove I know nothing) S1 is 5 speed S2 is 6 speed?
See here:
http://www.osgiken.net/products.php?product=other
If you are using copper plugs they should be something like NGK BCPR6ES but whatever gap them down to 0.8mm. To properly check for boost leaks make up a plug and pressure test to about 20 psi. If its dying under hard acceleration it could be R&R (look it up if you are not familiar with the term Rich and Retard) caused by too much boost.
If it runs without the coolant sensor then you need a new one. If you unplug the coolant sensor the ecu provides a start-up map to get you going.
But as above try plugging the safc back in and see what happens.
Sorry meant to get back to you earlier. Dan in the parts department at Cockram Nissan is a Skylines Down Under member and has been good at getting hard to get parts for me.
Why was there a SAFC - do you have upgraded parts? Correct coils (not S2 coils)? Can you swap out the AFM with a known good one? Plug ok? Changed engine bay fuel filter?