KiwiRS4T

No only the proper consult will work. Have you tried resetting the ecu by disconnecting the battery for a while?

Hypergear has been posting up his GTT results. Maybe you could perhaps read his thread. Or give him a ring.

Quite a few in NZ. Was someone building a race engine out of one locally - don't know how it turned out.

Looks similar to a ten year old Nissan Teana/Maxima but for twice the price

You can usually only put an adjustable cam gear on the exhaust of a VCT head. It is possible to adjust the inlet side but a lot of stuffing around and generally not worth it on an RB25 - no idea what it would be like on a 26.

Save yourself a lot of time and make up a pressure tester. Leaks can be hard to find.

I don't think it has anything to do with the new ecu. When I got my Link the a/c just worked as before.

Did you get the ecu and loom with the motor? What do you mean by "the throttle control unit not being used"? Have you not hooked up the TPS ?

Or buy ES-11 and gap them down. Since you have to remove the coils anyway give them a good clean.

What's wrong with the stock one?

Remsa are standard pads. They are made in Spain (also know as Roadhouse in various markets) and are ECR90 rated, which means +/- OEM performance. of course I am prepared to be called on this information by GaRkson, as they know best. Granted my knowledge of the product only comes from selling the **** for 3 years while I worked for Autostop/ASL and the various training days we had with Remsa. They are Remsas. Isn't that what you wanted?

You cannot expect to push it with those mods until you tune it. Nistune would be best bang for buck. Track days are great. Sure you want to drift it? Drive to track. Drift it. Break stuff. Trailer it home....

What gearbox are you using? You may be able to use the shaft you have. (Don't know for sure as mine was AWD to GTR AWD).

Sorry on re-reading I see it does vent to the turbo intake. I would think it would work as meant to with a low level of blowby... but for more serious cases you would need a bigger sump vent than just the dip stick tube.

As it is a closed system under WOT pressure will be supplied both from the cam breathers and the dip stick tube so once it has equalised with sump pressure it will not offer any relief.

I would have thought you were in a good position to compare them. All I know is that the exhaust cam on the DE has 6.9mm lift and the DET 8.7mm. Inlets appear to be the same.

Hmm clearly a few years since I bought mine. They have roughly doubled in price since then. I have one for you if interested - see PM

Several will work. 35A AAA DDBA 1BA =NPT 35A ACA DDBA 1BA = BSP Should be about $40 Pneutech are the Mac Valve agents so should be the cheapest.

Have you checked the head and block for straightness?

I would like to see people trying Google before posting common questions. OP if you trawl though MJTru's posts you will find pics.

http://www.raceproducts.net/axles/ http://www.qpaac.com.au/axles.php http://www.driveline.com.au/

From a guy who installed them (not me) they have a small positive effect - not enough to fix major problems. If you don't spend a lot of time at WOT I would just run the catch can outlet to the turbo inlet but if you get an unacceptable of amount of oil in the line add an air/oil seperator in that line.

Over 500 awkw at least on petrol - read SK's comments: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112475-aftermarket-fuel-rails/

I have an N1 pump with baffled stock sump, 2 x 1.0mm restrictors and sump breathers making 420awhp and 7000 revs. However if you decide on a Tomei pump it can empty your sump and quite a few Racefab sumps have found their way to the US. All the info is on the website: http://racefab.co.nz/sumps.html The price is half that of a Tomei pump and a small fraction of the cost of a rebuild.

Yes its been posted a couple of times. It goes like this: Transfer case rebuild Its not the adding of plates. Its the arrangement of them There are 19 plates in the standard setup, 12 outers and 7 inners to make up the clutch pack, Outer = O, Inner = I when reading the layout below..... Stock is IOOIOOIOOIOOIOOIOOI Full max grip rearrangement would be IOIOIOIOIOIOIOIOIOI You only need another old transfer case to rip the plates out of to rearrange your old setup, scavanging the extra inner plates to use, you need to select ones of the right thickness to end up with the correct end clutch pack thickness so some mix and matching is required. You don't need to go full grip, you can make up your own arrangement of plates like something in the middle like IOIOOIOOIOOIOOIOIOI Same theory as playing with a Cusco LSD clutch pack arrangement, see page 9 below....... http://www.cusco.co....Guide Final.pdf