KiwiRS4T

The number is not that important - its the variation between them that is a worry. Yes a leak down test if done by a competent operator should tell you if the valves or rings are leaking. Again a variation below 5% is desirable.

Walk away. Too much variation. A compression test is not rocket science so no point in doing lots of them.You will find that it drives ok with dodgy compressions but for how long?

I have a Prius for an Uber cab. Now I can take it to the Hampton Downs and do 1 min 10 second laps!

If your main interest is drag and track the decision would seem simple - if 255 km/hr top speed is enough stick with what you have. If not pick the ratio that gives you the top speed that you require. The shorter diff gives you closer ratios (and I believe Duncan runs the 4.3s). If you are a serious circuit racer and have some fast tracks as well as slower ones you could consider changing diffs to suit the track! The main reason I like taller diffs is for comfortable road cruising.

The purpose of a lift pump is to fill a surge tank so that you don't suffer fuel starvation on bends when the tank is low.

If you have the data for your existing 4.3 diff you can directly calculate the change points for your car with 4.11 or 3.9 and choose what's best for dragging. A taller ratio will reduce wheelspin but increase the distance between gears so it rather depends on the power band of your car and the nature of the circuits.

I bought a set of the "expensive" Whiteline ones off Dale because the ones supplied with the bar sat at a bit of an awkward angle. They have withstood a hammering on the track with the weight of my 1800kg Stagea on slicks being thrown into corners so I don't think they are too fragile...

Mine wasn't balanced - limit of 7000 has been ok for about 30,000km including track days.

Do some googling and buy yourself some det cans or knock detectors or what ever they are called in your part of the world...and search here for Trent's article on detonation. - actually there is a link at the bottom of his post - under the name of Status

Forget the "head drain". Use stock water pump not N1. I presume your machinist know the crank collar is a shrink fit and the grubscrews are just a back up. If you can get it done for a reasonable price get the whole assembly balanced from harmonic balancer to clutch. Otherwise limit it to 7000

What oil did you put in the box? Have you got a good seal between the gearbox and the inside of the car? Gearboxes do whine when there is no soundproofing.

The Walbro worked without rewiring but I put in a direct wire and relay because the pump will live longer that way and because I was getting a bigger turbo. There are a couple of tutorials in the DIY section.

Nonsense! Before I got my surge tank my in tank directly wired Walbro GSS 341 ran fine - never heard of anybody's fuel disappearing through evaporation!

With the right turbo, exhaust and tune you should be fine so long as it is 9.5 and they are not 9.5 pistons for an R33 in which case it would be getting a bit high in a Neo,

Even if they are 600 that should do 350kw ok.

R34 is top feed from standard so no need to change the rail. No idea what injectors you have. Google suggests they may be modified by Deatschwerks in which case they could be anything from 600 - 800. If you want to be sure take them out and get them cleaned and tested.

Unless you have already tried him your best bet is Soichi from ST Hitec he is able to modify some VQ ecus or alternatively he is an F-Con tuner.

Excessive exhaust gas temps

Any mail order chip is a lottery with not very good odds. If your car is not factory standard then it needs to be tuned The only suitable chip is one that is made following a tune on your car. Save up for a proper ecu - they can be got second hand.

Here's one: (let me know if you want me to get it for you or you can contact seller direct by hitting "buy now" on his $10 auction)...but will be at work for the next 12 hrs This is an automated email regarding listing #: 957082555 Hi bobvanr, The seller has posted a response to your question about 'RB25DET Neo Parts'. How much do you want for the ECU? What's the part number please? 23740 0V811. $200. Cheers posted by: pati06 (53 ) 2:18 pm, Fri 2 Oct View Auction Happy trading!

Hope this helps: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/201847-changing-factory-airbag-steering-wheel/

Yep you may get an engine warning light for the absent traction control but you can ignore that (there is a fix for that somewhere).

I don't know about a manual mode switch. Was your car a converted auto or always a manual? If it was a converted auto there is a bit in the DIY section on manual conversions which tells you which fuses/terminals under the battery you have to short out to allow the engine to assume that the g/box is in neutral so it can start. A quick search suggests your pic is of the auto g/box ecu Like so The plug at the top has been looped to complete the inhibitor switch circuit so the car believes it is in Park

Oops! Sorry - you were talkng about an R34 before - no idea what the R33 looks like but I suspect that the plug will not fit and anyway the R33 can't be Nistuned. I think you need an R34 ecu.

Its effectively the same. S1 ecus are 23740 and then OV300 (most common) OV301 or OV310 (least common). S1 pinouts attached Pinouts WGC34_Series_1_-_STAGEA_RB25DET_Auto_ECU_ translated.xls