KiwiRS4T

but don't try this at home!!

Is your car heavily modified or accident damaged? The shop has been unable to reach their target figure in most cases. I am surprised that they couldn't get the toe right as there is normally plenty of adjustment available. The front castor is fine but the camber is a bit high and will chew out tyres. The rear camber is as GTSBoy says OTT.

Neo motor has GTR rods - measure up and if its not too worn just do rings and bearings and check the head and valves.

Just keep going with your angle grinder until there is no rubbing...and as above trailer your car everywhere because it won't be safe to drive.

Reliable supplier means Scotty if you can wait for the post!

Get some smaller wheels or bigger guards. Camber change is not the answer.

Lance it seems to me that interrupting the circuit at the screw on the back of the speedo is still the best way. I am sure you have worked out how the spacer and tabbed washer will achieve that and you just have to work out which screw. If you look on the pic of the GTR cluster (which is quite different - especially without all the auto lights) you can see some Japanese characters next to the speedo signal and I wonder if you can see those same characters on your cluster (the photo is not clear enough for me to read).

Why not? Works fine in my Stagea.

Another tip - get rid of your turbo timer - more trouble than they are worth.

Why is that? Doesn't manual say 10W 30?

If you have just two wires to worry about just cut one and hook it up and if that doesn't work cut the other. Can you take a pic of the back of the cluster and post it up or PM it to me? I have a copy of the service manual but its in Japanese. I have copies of 5 pages relating to the speedo and if you PM me your address I'll post them to you (I am too tired to scan them just now).

I think you'll need the ecu nistuned and reckon you'll crack 150kw atw

For $10k you should be able to buy an RB26 c/w gearbox and ecu (actually a half cut should get you the FMIC etc and if you are lucky the brakes as well. Then you can update the brakes suspension and tyres.

Post in the Stagea section and you will get an answer quicker (I don't have an M35).

So far as i know Ids are Bosch injectors. I am a great believer in getting expert advice and one expert on here is Scotty so just ask him for his suggestions (and then go with them).

My carbon canister is no more but here is someone else'e post (not sure if its from an R33) but you get the idea i.e at least one line to petrol tank and one to in front of throttle body. You should see there is a round looking protrusion (purge valve) on the top of the canister. A small hose goes to the upper fitting on that from just in front of the throttle body. Then the slightly larger purge hose is directly under that and it runs to the manifold just after the throttle body. The hose from the tank goes to the other side of the canister on it's own. There is also a fresh air intake hose that runs from the underneath of the canister into the chassis rail that drags in some fresh air when the canister is purging at medium to high revs

Quite a bit of money for a modest performance increase (based on running E85) . You will need a retune. Why not wait until you get a new turbo? The new rail is not necessary but if you want one its not that expensive I guess.

Handbrake not a problem but surrounds are rare. maybe have a look at the Japanese auction sites

No idea but dimensions are same as every other crank collar. Please PM any enquiries thanks.

Have you installed it on the outlet (return) side of the fuel rail?

I'm not convinced that your steel box is the answer. There is a theory that much of the spewing out oil problem is to do with correct fitting of rings (not so much with RB30s where the crank action is suspected of much of the problem) and maybe that is how you have succeeded. However if you have no problems well done. BTW most engine installations I have seen don't have much room for a steel box (rusty or not) in that position!

I see the Neo made 308kw on 18psi so I guess you thought you would be closer. I see you didn't change the intercooler. Did you ever get around to measuring the pressure drop or temperature differences between inlet and outlet? Does your Nistune run an IAT sensor? If so you could just try fitting a bigger FMIC and see if it makes any difference (you could just use the 80 - 120km/h time as a measure) and then get a retune when you have the new actuator fitted.

Had new plugs lately? If its not your daily it would probably be worth sending your injectors off to be cleaned and tested.

You should have googled "drifting" before you bought it. If you want to keep it take it for a test and then if it fails take it to a workshop and get them to rectify the defects. Or sell it to someone who wants to go drifting.

Why is E85 costly? Just fill up the tank and get a retune and settle for whatever it will make with the current injectors etc and the new boost level. Don't bother with cams. And next time you are not satisfied with the dyno figures ask the tuner what you need to make more.