KiwiRS4T

I don't know what you are complaining about to be honest. If you are making 355AWKW or even RWKW from your unopened Neo motor you should be very happy. You have a top turbo builder and top tuner. If anything you are right on the limit for the Z32 afm and you could either change that or throw it away altogether and get a Link ECU. The simple answer would be to ask Trent what you need to make more power.

Some quality head work would help at this point.

Have you tried cleaning the element with carb or brake cleaner?

Because every car is different. Yes a similar car with the same turbo etc may have a map that you can use as a starting point but the point of a good tune is to tailor it to your own setup. A dyno is a great tool but not absolutely necessary, I have had a tuner do a great job with a wide band,knock detector, exhaust gas temp meter and an ecu with logging capability on a road tune. The dangers are two fold - you need someone to drive while you tune and you will find yourself going at illegal speeds on a public road. You won't know the KW you are making at the wheels but for yourself that is not so important - there are plenty of ways to measure performance - but if you are going to do it for paying customers they may want to see charts at some point.

Mines ECUs are not inherently "bad". The problem is that they have been chipped to suit a particular set-up and cannot be tuned to suit your set-up. Some people say "my car runs great on my Mines ECU" when really all they know is that it starts and runs. If by some chance it does suit your car (and you can only really be sure of that by sticking it on a dyno to make sure AFRs and timing are correct) then you can run it.

Mine was that bad...have no welding gear so took it to a panelbeater to get steel put in.

Have you got the sump already? You could have got Rips to include a pickup ...but if the sump is no deeper then your stock one should be fine so long as it doesn't foul on any new gates etc.

Man how do you ever make a decision? Those who say your injectors are too small are just expressing an opinion whereas I and Super Drager have dyno sheets to show that 550s will do 314AWKW, 360RWKW and more...(and my tuner tunes on the rich side).

Your injectors and pump will be fine. My 550s have done 314AWKW and good for at least 350 .

Try a much stronger spring first - as near as possible to target boost is better. Set your boost cut a bit higher. Does it overboost in the other gears (apart from 1st)? If you can borrow a 50mm W/G that would be worth a try but if you have to buy one I would go straight to 60mm.

I've used aftermarket cam gears like that without problems - just loctite the bolts when you have finished adjusting (can't help you with the cams).

Not enough information . What engine? Have you got a boost chart? What power are you making? What spring do you have in the wastegate? What kind of dump? Pics? What is your boost cut set at? What ecu?

I really don't think anyone could make sense of that tangle of wires from a photo. I would have thought you had a better chance of getting support for the F-Con than the Haltech where you are. If you are determined to go ahead I would look for another loom and plug in good cond to use as a template to try to restore it to original cond and then wire in the Haltech. Are there any sparkies where you live who are familiar with your type of car?

Well mine made 314AWKW with 550s and had plenty of room for more. Name the workshop that says you won't make 300 on 570's !! I reckon they will do 350 at least if not more. However if you have money to burn stick some ID2000s in and you will not have to change them for a while.

Like this: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/nissan/auction-910558279.htm

Those injectors will do over 350kw If you have the stock pump (i.e. a 20 year old one) get the Walbro and directly wire it. FPR will be fine.

There's nothing like a Stagea! And yes they are getting even cheaper over here!

Any inquiries or to buy please PM me!!!

Narrow band simulation is a feature on some wideband meters that sends a signal via another wire to the ecu that replicates the signal it would have got from the stock Lambda sensor to regulate idle and cruise afrs - that's what the OP was after. Fully automatic regulation of the AFRS is only possible on some newer ecus such as the Link that I linked above.

Open tailgate remove screw (or two I forget) and then lever it off with a big screwdriver (there's a pointy bit goes into a socket). (That's a C34)

Thanks for posting up the back to back comparisons. So often people end up comparing apples with oranges etc. That must be a quick little Datsun!

I don't know if the PFC has the capability to make the automatic corrections you are looking for. If not you need one of these: http://campaign.r20.constantcontact.com/render?ca=13724212-ccee-4b4a-9b30-b3988d06b7a7&c=0ff310d0-1d6f-11e3-b800-d4ae5275b546&ch=107f9960-1d6f-11e3-b805-d4ae5275b546

Great looking car - I would be happy to take it off your hands if you get bored with it!

And report back please

I don't know for sure but seeing how short they are I would think you could get three in the hole no problem, Get a drift and tap the existing ones down to make room for the new one so you don't have to hit it too hard potentially closing up the restrictor.