KiwiRS4T

(a) you need to post in the forced induction section (this is transmission section) (b) misfiring is really really common and thousands of words have been written about it so first Google something like "RB25 DET misfire" and have a read.

You can buy these on US Ebay delivered straight from China for about $40 They work fine. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bestlap-lap-timer-infrared-ultrared-racing-track-day-with-10-interval-time-V3-/251473885756?hash=item3a8d02fa3c&vxp=mtr

I don't know why you think your fuel lines will be an adequate restriction on their own. If they are they are not suitable for the job of supplying fuel to the engine. . And your Sard fpr should have a base setting of 2 bar or whatever so should be a sufficient test for the pumps.

Stock belts have been known to do 130,000 or more. You should replace them every 100 so no need to pay more.

They will fit. They won't look flash! (Not that I have tried it - there is a theoretical possibility that they wont clear the front brakes but I doubt it). Are you buying them? I have a set of 16 in Teana wheels you can borrow (or buy) - they have a big offset but you can try one on if you are anywhere near the West (Glendene) 027 2701489

Read the link to Glenn Sucklings car I posted above. It refers to him manually pumping up the awd on the way back to the line after doing a 2wd burnout.

I think it would be like replacing the pressure plate on a clutch without replacing the driven plate. It might improve things in the short term but wold soon wear out what's left of the driven plates. However it would be relatively easy to try - certainly easier than transplanting the whole attessa system from an R33. Local tuner Glenn Suckling built a 7 second R32 and says he had 3 computers controlling the awd but I suspect it took many thousands of $$$ as well as a lot of time so probably not an example for you! http://www.speedhunters.com/2013/05/7-second-itch-thegds-motorsport-gtr/

The attessa on a Stagea or R33GTR or any awd except an R32 is very different from the R32. It maintains a constant preload on the transfer box which is why you can't just pull the awd fuse to go 2wd like you can with an R32. If you look through the pics in this link you will see the accumulator that sits above the pump to maintain pressure: https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=Stagea+attesa+pump&biw=1700&bih=1037&tbm=isch&imgil=2_-SFOGPQr7r2M%253A%253BzR5opxEd4KBVBM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.gtr.co.uk%25252Fforum%25252F158978-attesa-nitorgen-accumulator-cannister.html&source=iu&pf=m&fir=2_-SFOGPQr7r2M%253A%252CzR5opxEd4KBVBM%252C_&dpr=0.95&usg=__n_jVUgCYpMU9gueGv_WpDJ3ITsY%3D&ved=0CCgQyjdqFQoTCMHZjan9kscCFQm2lAodF6gKJQ&ei=jYzCVYHfA4ns0gSX0KqoAg#imgrc=2_-SFOGPQr7r2M%3A&usg=__n_jVUgCYpMU9gueGv_WpDJ3ITsY%3D

what year is your car? Earlier ones had 17s later had 18s. Have a look on this site: http://specs.cars-directory.net/nissan/stagea/2001_431/

Here's a bit more detail from the factory site; http://www.linkecu.com/N350Plus

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110431-diy-aac-valve-cleaning-idle-reset/ Don't know if this applies to the RB26 but if it does it could fix your problems.

No its not a contradiction. It takes a lot of experience to become a good tuner. One of the skills of a good tuner is toe able to quickly pin point problems with a tune. Having said that a good tune still takes time because of the many variables in each case. I have had a lot of information and valuable tips from members of this forum for which I am very grateful.

The difference is 185cc. 555 would be fine for up to 350kw ...I bought 550 Deatschwerks but today I would buy something more modern like a set of ID750s from Scotty. Get in touch with him and he will give you a good steer. Get a more modern ECU if you can afford it too - otherwise Power FC will be fine.

Tried emailing Greenline? http://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/bccatlist2.php?make=Nissan&carcode=R33C&intake=FI&currentsubcat=other or AG-Y https://translate.google.co.nz/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.ag-y.com/&prev=search

New pump. Directly wired as per the 2 tutorials on this site.

OK I appreciate your difficulties in getting to the tuner but rest assured cam timing can make 100hp difference in some cases. Tuning is not just about timing. There are half a dozen or more variables and the tuner has to change one at a at a time so that he knows what is making a difference and then change another variable which may affect the first etc. .. hence the many hours involved. If you know a good tuner can you not drive down at 4.30am give him the car for a day (say a Friday) and get him to check the cold start on Saturday morning and then drive home? Whatever it takes it has to be done properly.

So you have a fully forged engine but won't pay $1000 for a proper tune! If it had a decent tune last time it my not take that much to bring it up to speed but 70 - 80 hp difference in tune is entirely possible - even more. And if you haven't got adjustable cam gears put a set on first so that your cams can be adjusted.

Did you ask the tuner if he found any problems? You don't mention adjustable cam gears. RB26s respond well to adjustment of cams. And don't be shy - who was the tuner and how long did the tune take? What fuel pump do you have and how old is it?

Sure its not the power steering pump putting load on the engine? What's the normal idle speed?

In theory if you are not running an AFM you can use those wires for something else (usually the MAP sensor or the boost solenoid) depending on whether the tuner is able to re-allocate those pins in the ecu... but since you need to add three things: a map sensor, boost solenoid and air temp sensor you may as well run three new wires.

All the other side mounts have the inlet and outlet wrong for an R32 so you would have to take them off and re-weld them. The 2m of piping won't be doing your performance any harm but for tidiness a return flow would do the job. And yes water to air coolers work fine but a lot of money for no real gain.

Been a while ...but it just clips in -possibly slide it forward as you give it a yank. Walbro is smaller than the stocker so you need to pack it out and/or clip it to the cradle. Just found a pic of the S1 cradle: http://run-it-hard.com/2012/10/tying-loose-ends/

Its not plug and play - maybe you can plug it in but there's a lot more work to do. You need to find the wiring instructions for your ecu. Shouldn't need to touch the afm.

There is never any need to use spacers if you can afford to buy the right offset. But note that the featured car has had megabucks spent on reshaping not just the guards but the doors

This is not my car but 18 x 8 fronts and 18 x 9 rears