KiwiRS4T

Its meant to be baffled inside. If you Google you might find some images but basically the incoming flow should hit a flat plate surface first and preferably more than one to encourage the moisture (oil/water) to precipitate...drop to the bottom of the can...so that only hot gas leaves the can. A crude way is to fill the can with stainless steel wool. Here's some https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=oil+catch+can+baffles&biw=1700&bih=1037&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0CBsQsARqFQoTCIqzlITOsscCFQEtpgodbKAAIQ&dpr=0.95

FFS buy another sensor. Are you in England? Maybe not too many used ones around - try what I said yonks ago and email Kudos Motorsports - it won't cost you anything to find out if they can supply.

Email for price and availability: [email protected] or phone (07) 5641 1171

Wow... you due for another run at the drags soon?

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424723-s1-rotors/

You can use Tomei Poncams with VCT or get your stockers reground but either way you will still get some benefit from the headwork

Robbie from RIPS has bought the car and is now dragging it. You could try an email - you might get a reply or not?! http://www.ripsracing.com/

Good feedback. So your new surge tank is stainless or just steel?

Well its totally different from an auto box too. OP doesn't have a lot of choice - I am sure with the right attitude it can be done. Over here people put them in R32, R33, Stageas etc just a matter of determination and a lack of RB25 big boxes.

Short story on what to put in R34 GTR box: I know people use a variety of synthetic atfs but upshot is both Nissan and Getrag say do not use anything but correct OEM fluid which is available from Toyota Dealers (and presumably from Nissan). Quote: Spoke to Getrag themselves and they insist on using Dexron II oil because these gearboxes were designed with bushing that do not suit modern synthetic oils. I am now going to use Toyota T IV. The long story is in the attachment... the-great-v160-fluid-challenge-rev1.pdf

Hub dyno is the answer.

Read about the last 10 -15 pages of this thread and all will be revealed if you choose to see.

Nothing good. Don't even think about it.

GTR box can be made to work if you are able to adapt as necessary.

Its easy to organise an engine cut off but you are better off without it as depending on how far up (or down) the catch can you put the sensor you should easily have enough fuel to get back to the pits rather than get stranded out on the track.

What do you mean bigger cams? You already have very agressive cams. How much lift have you got now? I still think you need a better tuner.

Hmm I was going to suggest a mercury tilt switch but it would require some room in the surge tank. What about a flow meter on the line from the lift pump to the surge tank? Or a pressure switch (similar to an oil pressure warning light or maybe even an actual oil pressure warning light) installed in a T off the feed line.

The position of the CAS is not really important if the timing is right. Ask your tuner (you did get it tuned when you fitted the Nistune????).

Do the brakes get better with a few hard stops or do they fade? It is worth changing your brake fluid (any new fluid but something like Motul best). Otherwise a change of pads might be indicated. They could be track pads which don't pull up well when cold or they could be just rubbish pads (have a read of the brakes section for some suggestions) - I bought Pagid but they are quite expensive and there are other types that people like.

If you think the timing is wrong put a timing light on it. Is it a stock rebuild ( stock ecu etc)?

I had a set of Nissan GT coupe sport edition wheels on my C34 (picture attached - caption says M35 wheels but they are not) They were 18 x 8 +30 all round I currently have in my possession a set of wheels allegedly off a V36 Skyline GT which are 17 x 7.5 +40 all round.

That's Glenn Suckling's R32 which he bought and put one of his 3.2 Nitto engines in.

Are they solid bars in each case or are some hollow? The C34 Stagea can be made to understeer badly with too much front anti roll bar and I suspect that for M35 also if you go for 26mm front and 22mm rear understeer is what you will get...but Dale will have a better idea.

There's never "the end" but there comes the point where you have to say "enough"! Looking forward to the result.