Its meant to be baffled inside. If you Google you might find some images but basically the incoming flow should hit a flat plate surface first and preferably more than one to encourage the moisture (oil/water) to precipitate...drop to the bottom of the can...so that only hot gas leaves the can. A crude way is to fill the can with stainless steel wool.
Here's some
https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=oil+catch+can+baffles&biw=1700&bih=1037&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0CBsQsARqFQoTCIqzlITOsscCFQEtpgodbKAAIQ&dpr=0.95
FFS buy another sensor. Are you in England? Maybe not too many used ones around - try what I said yonks ago and email Kudos Motorsports - it won't cost you anything to find out if they can supply.
Well its totally different from an auto box too. OP doesn't have a lot of choice - I am sure with the right attitude it can be done. Over here people put them in R32, R33, Stageas etc just a matter of determination and a lack of RB25 big boxes.
Short story on what to put in R34 GTR box: I know people use a variety of synthetic atfs but upshot is both Nissan and Getrag say do not use anything but correct OEM fluid which is available from Toyota Dealers (and presumably from Nissan).
Quote:
Spoke to Getrag themselves and they insist on using Dexron II oil because these gearboxes were designed with bushing that do not suit modern synthetic oils. I am now going to use Toyota T IV.
The long story is in the attachment...
the-great-v160-fluid-challenge-rev1.pdf
Its easy to organise an engine cut off but you are better off without it as depending on how far up (or down) the catch can you put the sensor you should easily have enough fuel to get back to the pits rather than get stranded out on the track.
Hmm I was going to suggest a mercury tilt switch but it would require some room in the surge tank. What about a flow meter on the line from the lift pump to the surge tank? Or a pressure switch (similar to an oil pressure warning light or maybe even an actual oil pressure warning light) installed in a T off the feed line.
Do the brakes get better with a few hard stops or do they fade? It is worth changing your brake fluid (any new fluid but something like Motul best). Otherwise a change of pads might be indicated. They could be track pads which don't pull up well when cold or they could be just rubbish pads (have a read of the brakes section for some suggestions) - I bought Pagid but they are quite expensive and there are other types that people like.
I had a set of Nissan GT coupe sport edition wheels on my C34 (picture attached - caption says M35 wheels but they are not) They were 18 x 8 +30 all round
I currently have in my possession a set of wheels allegedly off a V36 Skyline GT which are 17 x 7.5 +40 all round.
Are they solid bars in each case or are some hollow? The C34 Stagea can be made to understeer badly with too much front anti roll bar and I suspect that for M35 also if you go for 26mm front and 22mm rear understeer is what you will get...but Dale will have a better idea.