KiwiRS4T

Boost curve from my GT35/40 - usefull boost from 3000 on and almost full boost by 4000 I know its comparing apples with oranges but this is of course with a 3L engine.

Why would you want smaller discs? What caliper are you using?

I never rotate wheels. My theory is that they wear faster that way and it means you have to buy 4 at a time whereas I prefer to spread the financial burden.

I should think it would be fine with the factory fitted N1 pump. There was a time when some N1 pumps failed. It could be because there were some knock offs on the market for a while but my N1 pump has been fine (although I don't limiter bash).

Testing when you get around to it will tell you exactly what injectors you have. They may have been modified in some way. As per my PM i suggest you deal direct with the factory with the ecu. Their knowledge and expertise is second to none. I don't know who you are dealing with now but they are probably incentivised to sell you a new ecu rather than fix yours.

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Sorry for the random posts but I am just scrolling through your thread now. As well as cleaning your injectors you should get a report saying how much they pump - they need to be as close as possible (within 10% at least) - and also that will confirm what injectors you have.

Get a refund. If there is anything wrong with yours I can send you an OEM fpr for free.

Fault codes: http://www.linkecu.com/Software-and-Support/ECU-fault-codes

If you want to do it yourself you need to dump the pan and clean it. Refill through the dipstick. Then disconnect a line to the trans oil cooler and run it into a 2Litre container. Run the engine till the container is full then put 2L down the dipstick tube and run the engine to pump out another 2L . Repeat until the fluid comes out clean and fill to the correct level. Or you can pay someone hundreds of dollars to do it for you . Ring up a couple of transmission shops as well as your local Nissan dealer to get quotes.

Supposing that its repairable what are your chances of finding the person who tuned it last and seeing if they have the tune saved on their computer? If so that would be a good starting point to get it running.

Have you tried to contact CP direct? http://www.cp-carrillo.com/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=Q7LAfTKUjgE%3D&tabid=83

Did you get your dodgy actuator spring replaced? Assuming you have VCT working an adjustable cam gear on your exhaust cam could net another 5 - 7kw. Why not run fulltime E85? Just run your tank empty - fill with E85 and retune.

Specs are published in NZ - I presume they are similar to the Aussie rules: LVTA Tyre to rim width.rtf

If you are a real mechanical newbie you won't mind my telling you not to get under the car while it is supported only by the jack. Jack it up and put axle stands or something else solid to support it before you start crawling around underneath, And you should adjust parking brake at the wheels before adjusting the cables.

Curiosity killed the cat. Are you saying that you have an invoice for the rebuild? Does it specify what work was done? And are you saying that the shop whose name is on the invoice say its a fake? Your car is still going well 12 years later. Do a compression test and if all good find something else to worry about!

Walbro 255LPH 500HP External Fuel Pump GLS392 is ethanol rated http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/fuel-systems/auction-967861260.htm According to NZEFI the Walbro in your tank (GSS341 and GSS342) is ethanol compatible ( I have run E10 though mine with no ill effects) Check with Scotty - he will know and also has pumps at a good price.

Ask Hypergear what he's got to suit your current manifold - probably with an external wastegate coming off the turbo.

If the objective is better night vision then light bars won't do anything for you. I assume that headlamps are already supplied via a relay so that just leaves getting the best possible bulbs for your headlights and/or replacing the foglamps with driving lights.

Wrong wrong wrong. Backing the CAS off 2mm = guesswork. If you want 12 deg mark it on the pulley and set it with the timing light. Why do you want 12 deg anyway?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/gearboxes/auction-967343452.htm

Sadly the RB will still go like the clappers on 5 cylinders so prepare for the worst. A compression test would be the first step followed by a leakdown test if necessary.

To be honest if you have no budget and don't know where the starter motor is it will be all uphill for you. Some things you could do (not necessarily enough to get it going): Disconnect the fuel line and run it into a bottle and turn it on to see if a good supply of (fresh) petrol comes out. Then remove the filter and cut it open to see how much cr*p is in it. Remove the coils and give them a good clean (search for instructions). Remove the spark plugs - they will probably need replacing - other wise clean and regap. With the spark plugs out try and turn the motor over by hand (or with the starter if it works). When and if you get the starter working do a compression test. Remove the injectors and get them cleaned and tested (this will cost - there is no way round it). Try and track down the last person to tune the car - they may still have the tune on their computer and may be able to reload your Vipec (if it hasn't been fried). There is lots more you could do but these will take you a while!

FPR will be fine and pump should do it but to be sure should be wired to receive full battery voltage.

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