KiwiRS4T

Converting a DE to a DET is fairly straightforward. You will need the ecu and loom as well as everything else. You can turbo the DE engine but better if you have the whole DET engine. 2WD to AWD is a non starter

Because the GTR one is a downgrade. RB25 good for about 225kw RB26 good for about 150kw (from Paulr33's website)

Check if 260 can still be complied today. I know in NZ they can no longer be complied.

If the temp gauge reads 110 deg then you can assume that the thermostat is fully open so a thermostat that opens earlier won't be making any difference at this point. I would also assume that if the outside temp was 37deg the aircond would be on and that produces a ton of heat right in front the radiator. It is normal for cars to run hot under these circumstances and not a cause for panic. Reading back through this thread there seems to be some misunderstanding of Mozzman's point that cars run more efficiently at higher temps. Yes the point of the intercooler is to lower the incoming air charge as much as possible in order to maximise the amount of air but once combustion occurs it is preferable that as much energy as possible goes in to pushing the piston down rather then warming up the block. Naturally there is a limit to this but with the right oil etc this limit is higher than some seem to think. Having said that it is always a good idea to check the cooling system on a ten year old car. Many have plastic top tanks so removing the radiator and top tank will reveal whether anything need replacing or just a flush will do it.

You'll be fine. That's why you have a pressurised radiator cap so that you can run higher temps without boiling. But if you were not using your aircond (which heats up incoming air) you may think about getting your radiator checked sometime.

9.2:1 should be fine. Use 3 bar. Or whatever the tuner can get to work.

Most likely. Here's how I described mine when I saw it: In my S1 Stagea its a very small black plug taped to a loom with a single yellow wire with a green trace going to the plug and a single black wire going to the socket. You will soon know when you disconnect it. If the car explodes in a ball of fire its the wrong one.

I'm not sure that the DE Neo head is a good candidate for +T but leaving that aside why didn't you get an R34 SMIC and turbo? I'm not even sure the R33 manifold will bolt to the Neo head but could be wrong. Do you have an auto or manual? If you have a manual I would suggest an R34 ECU with a Nistune chip. If you have an auto sell the car and buy a GTT. It looks as though you haven't read many of the DIY guides on +T Do some more reading and Googling and you may decide to just buy a GTT

They are called cable ties!!

Comes complete with three brand new fittings as shown. Want it gone now AU$89 including postage.

Don't plan on buying a GTR. If it's a stretch to pay for it you certainly won't be able to maintain it and if you park it on the street you likely won't have it for long.

Brand new in box Mac Valve as used by lots of boost controllers or use your aftermarket Link, Haltech etc to control boost with one of these. Price AU$99 includes postage to anywhere in Australia.

Sorry double post

And in answer to your original question you will get over 35% more flow with a 3.5 c/w 3.0in exhaust.

Wow you learn something every day!

550awkw has been acheived with a 2.8 stroker and 3.5in exhaust (no screamer) - not to say that bigger won't be better

If you can remove the coils and take out the plugs you can gap them. Just get some feeler gauges and there is probably a how to on the web if you can figure it out yourself. In fact just tap the plugs gently on a vise or something and keep measuring the gap. Sounds like you need new coils though.

SK has a piece on upgrading the stock trans cooler with a bigger (also pipe type) cooler: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/59399-transmission-cooler/

My boost curve (red line is the last) :

Yes that's true for the tube type ones but the better quality such as Setrab or Mocal are built like a radiator and should be mounted with the inlet and outlet facing up or on its side with inlet at the bottom and outlet at the top. If this type is mounted upside down air can be trapped at the top reducing efficiency.

One would think so but I would still be inclined to gap them all down to 0.8mm - they are probably set at 1.1 Did you rotate the coils as well? Look inside the coil plugs to make sure all the contacts are there.

Yep and how old is plug? Is enamel in good condition? If it looks good clean it and gap it down to 0.8mm

Just no 6 is a wet plug or all of them? Dud plug or perished coil loom?

No the number of psi going to the wastegate is irrelevant if you have a boost controller (Link controlled Mac valve in my case). The point of putting it on the compressor housing is to have quick response.

I drilled and tapped the compressor housing for the wastegate line.