KiwiRS4T

Pic there now. Should not necessarily have to drill out restrictor. Read it a few times and it will become clearer. 10 minutes for SK might be an hour for you but it's not rocket science. BTW have you got a boost gauge? If not, be sure to get one.

Here is the answer to that courtesy of SK (this is for an R33 - I presume R34 is similar): This is the 10 minute no cost boost to 0.5 bar rerouting of the vacuum hoses [thanks to SK]. Disconnect the two vacuum hoses from the solenoid. Then connect the boost feed (from the cross over pipe on the left of the picture) to the standard T piece. Connect one side of the T piece directly to the wastegate actuator (on the right of the picture). The remaining connection on the T piece goes back into the inlet via the BOV return pipe (on the standard fitting). Make sure to put the standard brass restrictor in that vacuum hose to bypass the desired amount back into the turbo inlet. The standard bypass hole of 1.25 mm bypasses enough air flow for 0.5 bar. (See photo) PS: If you want more boost you can drill out the bypass, 1.5 mm = more boost (around 0.7 bar) 1.75mm = a bit more (around 1.0 bar). OK, this is the picture of the vacuum hoses. The boost pressure comes out of the intercooler return pipe (that's the big black one on the left) via the standard fitting. It travels down the vacuum hose to the standard T piece. The right hand side of the T piece goes to the wastegate actuator via another short piece of vacuum hose. It has 2 standard spring clamps on it. So that "some" of the boost pressure goes to the wastegate actuator. The left hand side of the T piece is connected to another (longer) piece of vacuum hose that goes to the standard fitting on the BOV return pipe. You can't see that fitting in the picture as it is hidden by the (big black) turbo to intercooler pipe. I squeezed the standard restrictor into that vacuum hose, it is tight fit, so be patient and use some lubricant (RP7 in my case). The restrictor limits the amount of boost pressure that is bled off, so that the "some" pressure that goes to the wastegate actuator is actually less than the boost pressure. This means you get more boost before the wastegate opens at its usual 4-5 psi. How much more depends on the size of the hole in the restrictor, the bigger the hole the more it bypasses and the higher the boost. The standard hole is ~1.25 mm and gave ~0.5 bar on my Stagea, which has standard everything else (no exhaust, no FMIC, std filter, etc). If you have mods, you may not get the same boost pressure, so you may have to adjust the size of the hole in the restrictor, it is brass so you can easily solder it up and redrill the hole smaller if necessary.

Wind it up to 10psi and you'll be fine. You'll get a marginal improvement from a tune but its a big expense and only really necessary when you change critical components such as AFM, injectors, or a bigger turbo. Then Nistune is best bang for buck.

I don't have an objection to an auto GTR (I know some people do) but its more that you will need to go to a lot of trouble and expense to get an auto that will hold a lot of power. Also when you go to sell it after getting bored with being out-dragged at the lights by Honda Civics (unless you stall it up and do a full noise launch which can get a bit tiresome/embarrassing) you won't get your money back.

You can recognise the correct coil by the mounting holes - yours should be like the first pic (DIS 005)

I wouldn't think the M35 trans bolts up - he would be talking about the WGNC34 trans. Frankly I would give the R32 a miss and look for a small auto performance car.

Who needs traction control? If you lose the air-cond it shouldn't be too hard to connect it up.

If you want better brakes some new synthetic brake fluid and some better pads will go a long way.

That Hitachi chart looks wrong. Yes DE and DET are the same but should be the same as R34GTR not R33 GTR Ref their Splitfire chart instead. You need SF DIS 005 http://www.nengun.com/splitfire/super-direct-di-ignition-system or you can get then in Australia from: http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/splitfire-m-45.html BTW the Yellow Jackets for S2 R33GTST should have fitted your S1 Stagea (although they could have been faulty) ref YJ RB2526-S2 from http://www.performance-wise.com/userimages/procart27.htm

Maybe but he clearly comes from the James Joyce school of writing.

Post No 1 first pic: Post No 1 below last pic: Go back to the front of car with the four plugs. The two pin grey plug is your inhibitor switch, put a loop between those (cut plug off auto trans loom). The brown plug is for the reverse lights (well two pins of it anyway), hook those up.

I would think you need the RB26 loom and ecu. For the auto wires look in the DIY section above in the manual conversion thread.

Just use hose to flush system

Sounds like fun! Have you (or others) looked into fitting a manual throttle? Long term if you want to maximise performance I would suggest selling the Emanage set up and getting a Link which will enable you to finely tune boost (and a decent wastegate unless you have an internal on the turbo)

Of course you are assuming that it is better to run at 82deg than 92 deg.

Where are you ? I can recommend a couple of shops (not Nissan) that could have a look at it for you . If you do decide on a new engine there are quite a few PM35s wrecking.

Your thermostat is not like the unit on the wall that controls your central heating - it just increases the flow through the radiator and once its open the Nismo is no different from the stocker so on a hot day both will be open but the amount of cooling done by the radiator will be exactly the same i.e. a thermostat that opens at a lower temperature will not cool your engine any better than one that opens later once that temperature has been reached.

It won't run cooler with the Nismo thermostat - it will just take longer to warm up. Stock is best.

Don't do it. You don't want to interfere with the turbo oil drain. And you want your crankcase/sump breather on the other side of the motor.

OK straight to catch can is fine. So when you say its starting to breathe what do you mean? Where is the problem evident? I use Motul 5W40 . Can't answer your question about the vct oil drain - have you got a Neo head and why isn't the vct working? Why have you blocked the drain?

Sump vented to valve cover is the problem. Read the last half or or so of the oil control thread. Also in my opinion your oil is way too heavy. What oil pressure are you seeing?

If you are talking about the restrictors in the oil feed people commonly just tap the new ones on top of the old ones.

Actually i lied - Shane's car is an RB20 n/a making 97 RWKW. With a roll cage it weighs 1160kg. Here's a vid: outside view: The build thread (32 pages) http://www.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/forums/index.php?topic=52581.0

An SDU member (NZ club) is rallying and hill climbing an N/A GTS with some success (wins). Main key seems to be reliability rather than big power coupled with excellent driving. Will dig out some pics when I get a chance.

Glen Suckling said he had three computers operating his awd on his 7 second R32