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KiwiRS4T

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Everything posted by KiwiRS4T

  1. 235 is too small for 9.5 and marginal for 9in.
  2. ^^^as above - why on earth would you weld up a mechanical LSD?
  3. Pretty impressive numbers. Just keep increasing the boost until it becomes counter productive - wouldn't have thought there was much more in it but interesting to see. I would recommend a Link ECU with a Mac Valve to control boost. Pretty laggy - I presume this is for track or drag racing?
  4. Why re-invent the wheel? There's plenty of back to back tests that show no gain from going to a pod filter. Increase your boost by 2 psi instead.
  5. I had a set of Yellow Jackets and tuner had to gap plugs down to 0.6mm (running 1.5 bar). I replaced with new OEM coils and PFR7G plugs gapped at 0.8mm - all good.
  6. Depends where you want your wheels to sit. Put a straight edge across your wheel arch and measure the distance to where you want to end up. As above get hubcentric boltons.
  7. Have you changed the Return flow for a cross flow fmic? Why only 17 psi? Did it not make more power at higher boost? What was the duty cycle on your injectors - should be far from maxed out at 257 awkw
  8. I have a spare RB26 rail c/w regulator if yours goes wrong!
  9. If you are dead set on a certain diameter and width of wheel/tyre combination you can work out the offset for yourself. Buy a set of tyres in the size you want. Remove a wheel, support the axle with a jack and put the tyre in as far as it will go until you are sure it will not foul the suspension under any circumstances. Measure the offset. Bolt the dream wheels on and modify the guards (not the suspension) to suit.
  10. And you don't want an air filter - you need to pipe it into your turbo intake.
  11. Still has foot operated parking brake! Shouldn't think there would be too many of these around so this is probably one that was done a few years ago with a wired in Link: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/nissan/auction-1022112891.htm Oh and the Mad Max V8 is up for sale again: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/nissan/auction-1022180627.htm
  12. NZ Performance advertise ACL bearings: http://www.nzperformance.co.nz/acl.html They also sell CP pistons: http://www.nzperformance.co.nz/cp-forged-pistons/nissan-cp-pistons.html
  13. 0.3L is a waste of time - you need a 2L capacity at least if you need one at all.
  14. Yes Stagea uses FS5R30A I put a box from an R33 GTR into my Stagea and it went straight in.
  15. Put it all together, bleed thoroughly, and drive back and forth (not on the road and with no hard braking) and then jack it up and see if it is still binding. I would not be keen to try to get rid of the problem by hard braking, You want it all lining up properly before you bed the pads and discs in as per instructions. Does the piston go all the way back in? Tried levering it in (without the pad and opening the bleed screw)?
  16. It would be unlikely that the ecu is to blame but would be good to eliminate it if you had another known good one to swap out. Actually would be worth checking the pins - pull the ecu plug out and have a good look at the plug and socket.
  17. OK would like this gone so $70 including postage! (Or I'll stick it back on the shelf for my next project - could be a while...)
  18. I think most people get them from the usual manufacturers but on special order. A lot of stockists don't realise Neo ones need to be different.
  19. Don't run it any more. Pull the engine out strip it down and measure the bores and crank to help you decide between rings and bearings or a $10k rebuild or anywhere in between. Welcome to GTR land $$$$$$$$$$
  20. There will always be some oil circulating through the cooler. What was your oil temp before you installed the cooler? Use your laser thermometer to track flow through your sandwich plate and see if you have picked the wrong spot for your sensor. The big difference between the sump temp and oil gauge temp suggests the cooler is not overcooling.
  21. Look in the DIY section for help with how to clean.
  22. Ideally at this point you would send the injectors away for cleaning and testing but otherwise you could at least swap out no 6 with another injector and see if the problem moves or stays at no 6
  23. Engine and transmission is easy - manual trans would be a bonus but almost everything else is the same so no point in changing it all. Turbo should have better brakes which should just bolt on (and maybe bigger master cylinder). The turbo may have an LSD and maybe stronger axles. It may have a bigger (thicker) radiator. That's about all I can think of.
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