KiwiRS4T

They cost around $500 in NZ. Don't wonder...ring up and ask.

You're missing the point. Buy a car already built with the original engine modified to the power that you desire.

I'm guessing the big blue one is the signal but you could just find a pinout diagram for your ecu and take the wire direct to the ecu.

Sorry didn't notice the second hand bit. Does it still boost OK?

Sure its the turbo? If it is and you have installed it correctly take it back if it not fit for purpose.

All you need is to figure out which is the signal from the gear box and that seems to be the one marked 2P. Then you need to interrupt that signal with an insulator and a tabbed washer. Then depending on the requirements of your converter you may need power and an earth. There are several grounds marked on your cluster and you just have to figure out a power supply. Worst case you get the power from elsewhere. Or you could just use your computer to produce a new card for your speedo and stick it over the old one thus obviating the need to convert the signal at all.

Here's a few: https://www.google.co.nz/#q=Nissan+Stagea+M35+pics&tbm=isch

NOT my car:

. Here are some pics for installing a speed converter: if they are not the same as yours you may be able to see what's happening anyway:

Basically you can have the whole gamut of aftermarket wheels except that you will probably be needing a different offset (have a look inside one of your stockers to give you an idea)) or you will need spacers.

Yep if you're going to pull the engine out definitely go the 30. Here's my power curve with the 30 - less top end than yours but more power early and that's with a 3582 turbo (NB the torque curve - not so much the numbers - they mean nothing to me but more the shape of the curve and early peak torque):

If you still have the old filter cut it open to see if its full of crud. E85 has the effect of cleaning out the tank and although you should be fine now some stuff may have got through to the injectors.

More torque, more power. Frankly I wouldn't bother until your engine blows. I was assuming that your track car was AWD which means an adapter plate but if its 2wd it not so hard. You are making good power for a 3076 and to get the most out of a 3L block you might need a bigger turbo (maybe not). But if you are keen by all means go ahead - you will go faster!

New turbos (from Full-Race Geoff): - when a tall RB30 block is used, I suggest twin EFR6758 (or twin EFR7163 depending on fuel and boost target). The twin EFR setups are not for everyone - there is more piping/lines/two turbos ... twin EFRs fit better than a large single in these cars - and for a responsive 750hp there is nothing that can touch this. We make the downpipes and charge pipe so this is a bolton affair to replace the existing -5s

Have a read of the Precision and Borgwarner threads. Certainly will be a laggy drive with an even bigger turbo. Is it a dedicated drag car?

I ran a number of different aftermarket 17in wheels with 330mm D2 Brakes (and they were fine at the track with my 1700kg Stagea). I don't think your GTT wheels will fit over 350mm brakes - why don't you track down some members with big brakes and ask if you can try a GTT wheel on - then you will know for sure

Please don't talk about stage 1 mods - you mean cosmetic changes that don't make your car go faster. If you have a quality fmic and you can install it yourself go ahead - it won't make your car go faster but it will come in good stead when you get a bigger turbo - which will really make your car go faster if done properly. Don't worry about getting a tune - if you have a stock ecu its not tunable and all they can do is check the timing and if you buy or borrow a timing light you can do that yourself. The most cost effective way to make your car tunable is with a Nistune chip so do some research on aftermarket ECUs : Nistune chip, PFC, Adaptronic, Link etc.

Stock is 165 LB/in front and 170 rear. My Teins are 172 front and 213 rear but they are a little on the hard side.

Tried Nissan?

If the tube for the dipstick is in your way i believe it is a press fit so you may be able to extract it. Do you need to remove the alternator or can you just loosen the bolts and move it?

Or you can buy a couple of springs and shocks. I got some second hand recond Bilsteins (Stagea specific labelled Nismo) and some (new) Tein springs from a local suspension shop. Rear Teins were Tein R - SIN79-010382HCC (although mine is AWD). There are suitable Eibach springs and other brands which will do the job as well. I see HKS sets for the Stagea from time to time.

Logical that a suspension for a small sedan will not suit a 1700kg wagon built to carry a load in the back. You need to buy Stagea suitable suspension. Have a read of (some of) the suspension thread.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/gearboxes/auction-1060532950.htm

I have never heard of a Sard Trigger Boost controller but if you Google you will get loads of info including video clips of how to set up etc.

Post in the Stagea section next time - plenty of people have tried the E-Manage. You can run an E-Manage, HKS F-Con or a proper ECU such as Link etc. but they are normally piggy-backed in to the stock loom. Best solution is a manual box. Why do you want a forward facing inlet manifold? You can run as big a turbo as you have supporting mods for - e.g. AFM, injectors , intercooler etc. Contact Hypergear for a deal on a better turbo that will bolt straight in and an Adaptronic? ECU.