KiwiRS4T

Cool car - very clean look and wheels really suit.

NZ$4,600 for that? Neo head is $500

You want just the brake booster without the master cylinder? Have you got a price from Nissan for a new one (postage from the southern hemisphere will be expensive)? Here are a few people to email: www.nisparts.nz/‎ www.kdautospares.com/nissan_parts‎ www.nissandismantlers.co.nz/‎

Rear is a mechanical LSD - front is an open diff and it is possible to swap it for a Quaife LSD with the engine in place. Hmm just checked and it may be that the M spec also has the V-Spec type computer controlled rear diff .

That's a good job!

Yep I had to look it up myself. I found that a delta is a landform that forms from deposition of sediment carried by a river as the flow leaves its mouth and enters slower-moving or standing water. If there is one of these in the engine don't buy it.

Engines from a reputable dealer should be sold with a start-up warranty and if they have no idea if it goes it probably doesn't.

I used a Tomei metal gasket. They are more expensive to buy but can be safely reused. I bought mine second hand and have had the head off and on twice since the original assembly.

^^^Perhaps a pointer to finding another tuner - people have run up 900AWKW and more on a 4wd dyno without "burning out " their front diffs.

If you are taking the head off check it for straightness and maybe get it crack tested.

Those compressions do not suggest any problems with the rings. From 10.8 to 11.8 bar is a little more than ideal but nothing to panic about. What's wrong with your headgasket?

Save up for some OEM or Splitfire coils.

Nice car! What is your power goal? Engine seems in good nick - I wouldn't bother pulling it out at this stage. People are making a lot more power than you currently have on an unopened engine. You don't mention ECU - I assume you have a Power FC. Have a read of the oil control thread (or say the last half of it). Rear head drain is not. Octane don't mention a restrictor on the oil supply with an aftermarket oil pump. If you are worried about thrashing it on the track make sure the cooling system is up to scratch. Invest in DataLogit for PFC and if your oil temps are getting too high get an oil cooler. Use a high quality synthetic oil and most important of all get a pointer to a really good tuner and don't cheap out there (BTW looks like you were on 4 wheel dyno - no need to remove the front drive shaft).

1 bar cap should be fine. But check that the size and depth etc is same as stock. Otherwise go with your original diagnosis of rubbish cheap hose and put something better on.

Yes quite right. Which confirms my theory that the wheels on the 260Rs cars above are Varrstoen copies (not forged but cast) which do come in 17 18 and 19 inch. Others making similar knock-offs include Koya and Rota.

If you had bothered to click on the Link to Rays Engineering that I gave you you will see that this statement is incorrect (as is your statement that you know the model of wheel you are after). It is the particular model of TE37: "Ultra Evolution Track Edition" that gives them the inverted spoke look that you are after - nothing to do with offset - as i have already told you they are available in a full range of offsets ALL of which feature the "reinverted spokes". 17 or 18 x 8in or 9in will fit. For offset I have no idea for your car - for mine it requires different offsets front and rear.

Here ya go - 5 minutes on Google and here's what you are after - they are called TE37 Ultra Evolution Track edition (with what they call "inverted" spokes) - nothing to do with offset - they are available in a range of sizes and offsets. I suspect they will cost an arm and a leg each: https://www.rayswheels.co.jp/products/wheel.php?lang=en&wheel=TE37ULTRA-TE

You may find those concave wheels are not genuine Rays but just Varrstoen copies. https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=varrstoen&biw=1920&bih=955&tbm=isch&imgil=y4ilUlns7svY_M%253A%253BP3JGAQ6wz7a5dM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.com%25252Fitm%25252F19-STAGGERED-VARRSTOEN-ES1-SILVER-WHEELS-FITS-INFINITI-G35-G37-NISSAN-300ZX-%25252F131336398351&source=iu&pf=m&fir=y4ilUlns7svY_M%253A%252CP3JGAQ6wz7a5dM%252C_&usg=__-9Okj2LLyr9AKGrdrsvCxYmvJv4%3D&ved=0ahUKEwiW4MKj0srMAhWIX5QKHUCwCMQQyjcINw&ei=9EYvV5aWIIi_0QTA4KKgDA#imgrc=y4ilUlns7svY_M%3A

There is a school of thought that says AFMs are more accurate than MAP sensors but my own thinking is that MAP sensors are closer to the action ... but I am open to being proved wrong. I haven't seen any back to back comparisons.

Bought them second hand off a drifter - can't remember the brand sorry...

The top car at least is a 260RS and will be AWD

The TE37 is not a concave spoke design. It has that nice convex spoke look.

It should fit - they say it will and will have to give you your money back if it doesn't. Is it cheaper than buying from a radiator shop?

See if you can find part numbers on them and then check (or ask someone to check) with Nissan Fast to see which part numbers are correct (post up your VIN)