KiwiRS4T

Good point. So Motul RBF660 is better but not twice as better: Motul dry 325C Nulon super xtreme 284C Motul wet 205C Nulon 183C

Motul RBF600 has about twice as high a boiling point as your fluid so that should make a big difference. RBF660 is slightly better again.

New tyre will be fine . Space savers are a stupid idea

Are you also aware that the Haltech is not an OEM item?

If dish is what you are after you could buy this car for about the price of a new set of wheels http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/nissan/auction-1101056898.htm :

They are stupidly slow! All 20 year old cars have issues - nothing especially dodgy about the 260RS. But if you get the n/a car you could always save up for an Evo!

Have you still got the aircond? I put mine in the LH guard.

Never seen one but some people have a half cage. A bar that is totally unsupported would be not a lot of use I would think. Check out the Cusco website.

^^^That's right! Here's another strategy. Buy the n/a S1 and don't spend any money on it apart from routine servicing brakes and tyres etc. Save up the money you would have spent on turbos, manual conversion etc towards a 260RS. It might take a few years but it would take a few years to modify your S1. I've been there and I started with a RS4T - better turbo, piggy-backs, then GTR box diff and axles, better brakes, Link computer, better suspension, wheels, seats, RB30, bigger turbo - you get the idea: incremental improvements but with doing some things twice. The total: $50k Save up for a 260RS ...should be under $20k or even less soon ($12 - $15k over here) and at least you have a good base - RB26DETT, GTR box, brembos etc.

Don't buy a non turbo if you want turbo power - especially a non neo C34. Be patient and keep looking for a turbo car - preferably a S2 (neo) so that it can be Nistuned. Save up and you'll save money - conversions are not cheap.

Take the panel off the LH side panel and have a listen to see if you can hear where the clicking is coming from. Check that the plug is secure in the ecu. The ecu has to come out to get access to some stuff behind it.

Sorry just rethought that. It would require two sets of hoses coming from the double stacked sandwich plates. The alternative would be to not use the mocal plate but put an inline thermostat between the relocation plate and the cooler.

Have a look through this for a start: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93880-rb26-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/

Read the PDF in the first post of the first thread in this section for a start.

If you have the cold pack you should have mirror heaters which come on with the switch for the rear screen defroster, And post up a pic of your Stagea! You have clocks to the right of your steering wheel??

And I'll just repeat my question - how much power do you want? If you just like spending money on mods the sky's the limit - go for it!

How much power do you want? Have you got a great suspension set up and good brakes? For more power forget the cams and plenum and get E85 and turn up the boost (and get a top tune) and if that"s not enough upgrade your turbo.

ECU should do a better job than the evc. Extreme temperature swings will challenge any system at full boost. Mention it next time you are in the shop but I wouldn't think it justifies a special trip.

If you can hear the solenoid click but starter doesn't fire its more likely to be a stuffed starter (or the power or earth leads) if you have plenty of power in the battery.

Check your timing. Has your battery got enough grunt? Tried charging it or jump starting it with another battery?

Good luck with those tyres - they are way too small.

It would be a lot easier and better to sell the S1 and buy a S2 (especially if you don't already have the Neo engine).

https://www.google.co.nz/#q=how+to+bleed+attesa+system

This

Well a long pull at WOT would see a lot of fuel going through the injectors and not much to be returned. Although I see you have a grunty primary pump.