KiwiRS4T

Cusco LSD can be adjusted between 1.5 and 2 way or 1 way and 1.5 if you want the choice: http://www.cusco.co.jp/en/pdf/p27_p29.pdf

Front diff is not an LSD and rarely gives trouble. If you want to replace it with an LSD Quaife is the go. Most popular replacement for the rear is Nismo But your problem does not sound diff related. To start with there is a thread above with instructions on how to bring your A-LSD back to proper working order if you want to try that before replacing it. More likely you have an Attessa problem. Check the level of the Attessa fluid in the reservoir and try bleeding (one nipple back of the gearbox and another above the diff). Check the Attessa ECU for fault codes (dodgy sensors, faulty pump etc). There is quite a bit of info in this section on how to rebuild your transfer box if that is where the fault lies (replace or re-arrange the clutch plates in the transfer box).

That's certainly getting warm. Is it possible you have a slight leak across the headgasket?

WEll done. Stock they are no ball of fire but 297 AWKW should push it along ok!

Maybe the cv joints are stuffed? Check for play...

Sounds fine. All good.

Its not rocket science. Any place that advertises the service should be able to clean your injectors and provide test figures. If you are really after a recommendation you should post up your location in your profile.

Just trying to nail down your problem. What do you mean by staying cool at idle? Why do you want it to be cool? If it overheats in traffic you have a problem but running or idling at normal operating temps is not a problem. A Nismo thermostat will not guarantee that you will idle at 70 deg. It just opens your thermostat earlier.

If you have to swap out your coils get a set of plugs at the same time.

Have a look in the parts for sale section and if there's nothing there post in the parts wanted...

My new OEM coil packs were fine at 1.5 bar on 98 fuel - plugs are PFR7G gapped to 0.8mm

No it won't be ok it may just make the power (but not on 1 bar) and it will be laggy so not very streetable.

Dropping the exhaust is simple - sounds like you might have a fairly restrictive system. Test for boost leaks (make up a plug and apply air supply) If you are keen you could put a nipple either side of the intercooler and measure pressure drop. And yes maybe your turbo has failed.

Not something I would consider a do it yourself job!

Did you have a problem before you fitted the catch can? What do you use the car for? Oil is normally spewed out only with sustained runs at WOT i.e on the track or sometimes on the dyno. Empty catch can is a good thing! Can't really see your set up. Do you have a line from each cam cover going to the top of the can? Is there a vent? Or a drain?

You might make your target with a 1.08 rear but it will be laggy on a 26 - no fun on the street

You need a better turbo. On 1 bar you'll make something over 300kw. If you wind the boost up you'll maybe crack 400kw. There are better turbos out there. Have a read through the RB26 turbo upgrade thread above.

If you are going to get Brembos for the front presumably they will be off a GTR so you would use the 324mm rotors as well. How did you manage to spend $1000 on GTT brakes? Was that for front and rear and some exotic pads or did you get expensive aftermarket rotors? If you were using Castrol SRF racing brake fluid that is almost as good as Motul so probably not the problem (if you filled the system with fresh fluid and bled it adequately). Seems likely poor pads were to blame. If you want to splash out on bigger brakes still a set of D2 330mm rotors 8 pot calipers (sold under other names as well) with Pagid pads and 2 pot GTR brakes on the rear pulled up my big heavy Stagea lap after lap with no fade.

I take it you have installed a wideband afr meter? All RBs seem to run rich - I don't know if yours is worse than average. Check for boost leak like Ben says and maybe clean your AFM.

Get a set of extractors instead

There is no translated version. There is however a translated R33 manual around and much of the information will be relevant.

Stick with the airbox. It won't go any faster with a pod.

Good quality round centre muffler and oval rear muffler can be within legal limits.

And check your pad thickness - amazing how quick you can wear them down if you really try!

Are those really Audi wheels? If so I believe they are 5 x 112 (nissan 5 X 114.3) and the centre bores are only 57.1mm (Nissan 66.1mm)!!~