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KiwiRS4T

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Everything posted by KiwiRS4T

  1. I would use the free oil while its there. When it runs out you could try 5W 30 or if your engine is quite worn stick with the 15W 40.
  2. My preference is for the tuner to start it. Should be 90% run in by the time its tuned.
  3. 86deg would be the one. Short term measure you can put a cover on the oil cooler radiator.
  4. Or drill out the new bolt. I assume you got all new studs for the manifold!
  5. Please read your post after you have typed it and if it is not clear or doesn't make sense take the time to rewrite it. If you want Nissan brakes your GTR already has the biggest. If you must have 330mm rotors get a set of D2 brakes which will bolt straight on: 330mm x 32mm 8 pot calipers.
  6. 1. Yes and yes 2. Not unless you have a full licence in which case you can get a GTT. If not getting a non turbo will result in a post "how do I turbo my n/a skyline". Better to buy a Toyota Corilla or similar and save up for a GTT when you have a full licence.
  7. Other suggestions - join a car club (as well as SAU - one that organizes races). Also the people that run track days sometimes (well they do in NZ) provide at a price experienced racing drivers to ride in the car with you and help improve your driving.
  8. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/forum/57-tutorials-diy-faq/ Have a look at the two tutorials on rewiring your fuel pump. You may get some clues. There is talk of a voltage regulator for the fuel pump (presumably somewhere under the bonnet) but I don't have a Skyline so don't know any more. Actually always use Google not the search function on this site and you will get loads of info: Google e.g. "r32 fuel pump control module"
  9. The article is wrong there is no diff lock in the RB world and hence no diff lock button. The idea probably comes from a misunderstanding of the function of the switch I described above which is common to all attessa equipped Stageas. The Attessa reservoir is not an exclusively 260RS feature it is a feature of all awd Stageas.
  10. There is no diff lock in the Atessa scheme of things. There is a switch which will give you a 50/50 fore and aft power split but that only operates at low speeds for e.g. getting you out of a muddy paddock or up a boat ramp. As soon as you hit 20 km/hr or so it reverts to the stock 95% rear until the rear wheels start to spin. The 2wd switch (if that's what it is...its not a factory item someone had to install it to save you pulling the plug behind the driver's kick panel) works as described by Aaron but it only works until you turn the engine off and then you have to set it again. From the manual: Locate the "air bleed" wire behind the drivers kick panel, it's a plug with a single wire either side (usually green socket, white plug). Disconnect it. Start car. As key comes back to the ON position, within 10 seconds, depress brake pedal 5 times, 4WD light will start flashing to indicate you are in 2WD mode. To go back to 4WD mode, turn car off, reconnect plug and off you go.
  11. Its definitely aftermarket - probably for an ejector seat.
  12. Go to a steering specialist they should be able to do it fairly quickly drive in / drive out and cheaper than paying twice for a spare you may never use.
  13. I put Pagid pads from RaceBrakes in mine but sorry don't have the numbers.
  14. Nice car!! I might have missed it but what colour is that?
  15. All turbos get hot. You are going to have to be a bit more specific about which pipe is leaking - is it leaking exhaust gas, oil, water?
  16. Because I had an auto I had an SAFC in my S1. But I also had an SITC (for timing) a Jaycar boost controller and an HKS speed control defeater so that I could exceed (on the track) the 180km speed limit of the stock ecu. Obviously this all cost more than a Nistune but that was not an option for the S1. I also paid for a tune which you need in any case. If you have a S2 Neo engine getting a Nistune is a no-brainer. It will do much more than a SAFC for not much more money and the SITC is getting really hard to find. You should be prepared to pay for a tune in any case so the Nistune is incomparably better.
  17. What's the point of sharing my thoughts if you just ignore them? Pull the wires off the sensor - 2 second job as above. If it doesn't make any difference its a two second job to put them back!!!
  18. No turbo is fine. Personally I would like the AWD car but 2wd may well suit your purposes ok. Stronger rear anti-roll bar would be good that's about all.
  19. Drift guys are using 3 bar. Not sure if your turbo can hit that. The real answer is the tuner will increase boost until it becomes counter productive.
  20. There are two coolant sensors. the one with one wire goes to the gauge so won't be a factor. The one with two wires goes to the ecu. Try pulling the wires off . if it cold starts ok its definitely the sensor as without it the ecu will use a back up map but if its dodgy it will mess with things.
  21. I ran an SAFC with my high flowed RB25 BUT I also had an SITC (they are getting hard to find) to modify timing. Relatively crude but do-able. Obviously a proper ecu is better but I had these when I still had an auto box.
  22. If you haven't been using "anti-freeze" your system could be full of rust and cr*p. First try bleeding all the air out (search if you're not sure how). Get a radiator shop (or your friendly mechanic) to put a pressure tester on the radiator to spot leaks or may tell you if there is a major leak from the head gasket. Have a look through the filler at your radiator core. May need cleaning or replacing.
  23. What's a rear seat buckle? Are you saying there are no safety belts?
  24. Buy it. If he warrants that it will fit you can get your money back if it don't.
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