KiwiRS4T

Looks like you're not using the stock boost controller. The line with the bolt in it looks like what used to be the bleed line. What sort of boost control are you using? I'll check back through the last 4 pages to see if you have mentioned it. OK just read the whole thread and no mention. What are you using for boost control? i.e. what is connected to your actuator? Some kind of manual T ?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/ecus/auction-1124028691.htm http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/ecus/auction-1122767920.htm

Not in those minute quantities. Its not soluble in water so will not have any noticeable effect.

https://sites.google.com/site/tyndago/gt-rbleedingattesasystem In the C34 the reservoir is in the rh rear wing by the tailgate in side the little door. As well as the bleeder at the back od the gearbox there is another (often missed) above the diff. There is a switch for the attessa in the drivers kickplate (well not a switch but a plug you can connect and disconnect - if you can be bothered finding it you may as well wire a switch into the circuit for running in 2wd if necessary) If not just turn the car on and off. Just use a good (prefereably synthetic) ATF 2wd instructions: Locate the "air bleed" wire behind the drivers kick panel, it's a plug with a single wire either side (usually green socket, white plug). In my S1 Stagea its a very small black plug taped to a loom with a single yellow wire with a green trace going to the plug and a single black wire going to the socket. Disconnect it. Start car. As key comes back to the ON position, within 10 seconds, depress brake pedal 5 times, 4WD light will start flashing to indicate you are in 2WD mode. You need to do this every time you start the car. To go back to 4WD mode, turn car off, reconnect plug and off you go. And if you plan to do this a lot you can put a switch in somewhere.

Stagea DIY section is just a list of "URL......" which do not work. Still coming?

Or get into it with a dremel or something and grind off where it is hitting.

Personally I would leave it at that. If you are really keen you could take the filler cap off before you take off (when the engine is cold) and theoretically any oil should have floated to the top and you could remove it with a syringe of some sort.

They would ask you for the evidence (invoice/receipt)

Yes. No it doesn't matter which way round.

A lot of trouble and expense - you could just wire a switch into the CAS or somewhere so that the engine turns over a few times before it fires when cold.

Its less than ideal but wouldn't pull it down at this stage it probably drives fine.

Take the VCT out and wire it directly to see if the actual solenoid works first.

I believe Christian is still working on getting the update up to scratch and then hopefully all the links will work...

Your problem is the turbo. In 2009 I put a GCG highflow on my RB25DET and it made 225AWKW at 18 psi. For half the money you could have got a better Hypergear turbo or for the same money a much better Hypergear turbo or maybe even a Precision or other modern turbo. I attach my charts (sorry don't know how to get rid of the redundant charts):

I apologise if I have offended you. That'll teach me to rely on 2nd hand info...

Tony Quinn has built a VR38 powered Ford Focus for Pikes Peak Hillclimb (pics may be on facebook) http://www.hamptondowns.com/pages/107/latestnews.htm

That WRX has a 0 -100 time of just under 4 seconds.

Old style GPS trackers required a subscription to a tracking service but the new ones will phone your own phone directly. Then all you need is a sim card in it. Google to get excessive amounts of info.

Sounds like it. Next step is to try to borrow a S2 25DET ecu (preferably auto but any would do for start up) and if that works you can start looking for a proper replacement. You could try taking the lid off yours to look for any obvious damage that you might be able to repair

Try to get the ecu and engine loom with the RB25

I guess you were misrepresented because obviously any time from a dyno would count for nothing! Would welcome a 1/4 mile timeslip!

OK hopefully that will also fix the broken links as in e.g. the DIY section.

Well I lined my C34 with a tad under 325AWKW up against a lightweight WRX STI (can't remember the model) on the track and he left me for dead.

I am sure you could do it on a dyno. You could probably do it on a set of axle stands but not on the road with only 325AWKW.

Yep get bigger more modern injectors and a bigger more modern turbo and if your intercooler and exhaust system (3.5 in) are up to it you should have heaps of power. If the engine lets go (no reason why it should) put an RB30 block under your head for heaps of street friendly torque. If you want four door four wheel drive get a GTS4 and repower it.