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KiwiRS4T

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Everything posted by KiwiRS4T

  1. OOPs reading too fast (or brain too slow)
  2. I prefer to supply the boost from the compressor housing rather then the plenum.
  3. And a bigger engine - will be laggy on a 2.5
  4. If you Google "vehicle inspection services perth" there are at least 3
  5. Lets put it another way minimum legal tyre on 9.5 rim is 245 so really the answer for the OP is have a think before you "pick up" some wheels and consider whether they will actually fir you car. Alternatively you will have to do what it takes to extend your guards.
  6. I can't see any reason not to transport a drum on its side except that it is weaker that way and may get damaged or roll off the deck . However you should probably check your regulations to see what they specify. I must say all commercial carriers keep the drums upright and in NZ at least that quantlty would require Dangerous Goods placarding and a licence for the driver. Also the weight of a full drum would require proper restraints to be used.
  7. The build up of pressure that need to be relieved seems to be more on the inlet side. My catch can is about 3L and by the look of it the max level would be about halfway and since I fill with 6L of oil I don't see it emptying the sump. And yes an extended sump with baffles and gates would be an added safeguard.
  8. You are wrong. You can get 8mm and 10mm. But baseball bat or hammer are a realistic alternative.
  9. ^^^what he said. Pull the thermostat out and if it's stuck open it's obviously dodgy. I hope it's not one of those Nismo low temp thermostats. If so bin it and get a stock one. The Nismo radiator cap "shouldn't" be a problem.
  10. ^^^what he said. Once you have removed all the bell housing bolts and the starter (and the front prop shaft) undo the rear g/box mount (put a jack under it) and lower it down as the engine goes up. Not one man job - you will need help! Obviously first remove the radiator, fan etc.
  11. Stock intake manifold and throttle body will get you to your target hp. But if you have already bought the Greddy copy and 80mm throttle body and would rather install it than sell it go right ahead.
  12. RBs have their peculiarities so ask around for a shop familiar with (and expert at) RB engines.
  13. There are lots of people like you who buy things without knowing why.
  14. For a track only (not road registered?) car I would forget the semis and go full slicks
  15. Size difference is minor. More important is are they quality tyres?
  16. Racefab make one. http://racefab.co.nz/contact.html
  17. If you start it up from cold and let it idle you just feel the top hose and when the thermostat opens it will suddenly get hotter. Of course this will not be the case if your thermostat is stuck open. In this case it will just slowly get warmer. If your bleed valve does not work clean it out until it does work. Where exactly is you temp sensor for your aftermarket gauge? I cut the top hose in half and put an adapter in there.
  18. Go to Race Brakes and get a set made up to your requirements
  19. Have you checked that the thermostat is working correctly by say letting the motor idle and feeling the hose to see when it opens? In fact at those temps (if correct) the thermostat should not open. I would be inclined to pull it out and see if it is stuck open. Or first get another view of your water temps by say putting a thermometer in the radiator filler or using a laser gun type thermometer. Running that cold is not ideal.
  20. Yep and adjustable castor rods (if not already fitted).
  21. A lucky purchase but you've done a great job with it - well done! (For track only try -3 deg camber at the front)
  22. I just cut two pieces of timber with a suitable bevel on one end and drive up on them. They also double as wheel chocks so you don't have to use the handbrake when the brakes are hot
  23. If you already have the 550 injectors they should be good for over 500hp on petrol so they will be fine.
  24. How much upgraded turbo? With stock ecu it won't run very well and likely induce R+R
  25. At the top of this page the second "pinned" thread is about the computer controlled LSD in the back of your V-Spec. If you read all of it (its not too much) you will find out how to service your diff so that it works properly. If you can afford it now wold be a good time to put a Quaife LSD in the front of your car (available from Palmside in Christchurch NZ) and if you have the time and inclination there is information in this section on how to beef up your transfer case (with a GTR the spending never ends!)
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