KiwiRS4T

Fair enough. Mine choked at about 240awkw. Would have been interesting to put the hybrid on that engine but I changed the engine and intercooler at the same time So Stao are you planning to put a better, crossflow intercooler on and retest?

It'll be something minor. Big frustration being so far from the workshop.

The above is what the young guys round my way go for - no cat, straight pipe with a cannon at the end. Highly illegal but impressively noisy.

Don't ask me - I never got to the bottom of it. I remember Guilt Toy saying cam timing was the key to power from the RB30 but never had the money to stick my car back on the dyno to sort out why it was making such relatively low power.

Black C34s are very rare - hopefully it will be spotted soon.

That will be really loud unless you replace it with a piece of pipe.

Don't know what it should make. Don't bother changing throttle body. Do a run with VCT on and another with it off - that will tell you if it is working and also help to set the change-over point.

By all means fit a set of Stage II suspension components if you are so inclined but remember it all starts with a set of quality tyres, correctly inflated....and read Gary's thread above labelled "shockabsorber 101"

If you used a solenoid on the valve a Link computer or similar could control it as you want with different opening and closing pressures depending on rpm

If you have checked the brake light switch above the pedal then it is likely you have a sort in the loom somewhere. Have you put a meter on the battery and seen what happens to the voltage when you crank the engine? Can you try running a wire from the battery to the coil loom? (They earth through the ecu).

What do you call "settled"? I am sure that many people do make 450kw with the stock rods - maybe more - and some may have failed at less. Why is high revs a no-no? Lots of RB26 fans will say spinning them at 9 or 10k is the fun part. If you have a question such as " I want to build a 450kw Rb26 and won't rev it over 8K - do I need to replace the stock rods?" you might get some useful answers.

Wheel spacers are ok if 1. You have sufficient stud length to secure the nut (as per Duncan's formula above) and 2. they are hub centric i.e have the correct centrebore for your car.

I don't know what the discharge pressure is. Fellow Kiwi is running one on his R33 GTR and the gauge reads 80 psi If you google "Accusump Oil Accumulator Operation" (I can't paste links on here for some reason) you will see a Youtube demo of his system.

I don't think any version of the F-Con can do flex fuel but all Link and Vipec ecus can

Not sure you've got it right but maybe you're just saying it wrong. You need to do like GTR Joey says. The fuel in the rail is pressurized by being blocked from leaving by the regulator. To paraphrase: Tank>lift pump>surge tank>044s>filter>rail>regulator>cooler>tank.

2 hour drive home - should be fun!

How much is it going to cost to take the car to a tuner? I know at least three tuners who go to the Islands and South Africa to tune cars and I am sure would travel to Miami if you have access to a dyno.!!

I don't know why people want two stages of boost but if you do you try putting a restrictor in the line that goes to the actuator. That would be a cheap solution although you would need to experiment with the size of the restrictor and bore it out if you are getting too much boost. Or you could replace the stock solenoid with an aftermarket boost controller. The trouble is once you get a taste for more power you become addicted and want more so you could just send your turbo to Hypergear and get a Nistune chip and the other bits and pieces to go with 280KW!

Why not go the whole hog and get a GTR diff - at least its a proper LSD and you get stronger axles. Although I guess you could get a Nismo LSD for your existing diff.

Get a price from Hypergear for the turbo and start saving. In the meantime replace the plugs and clean and check the coils.

If you use Steve Murch it won't fail. But you will have to deliver the turbo to him - I don't think he will remove it for you.

I agree. Get another mechanic/ tuner. VCT changes the cam timing by... I think its 20 degrees... so you can see it's not insignificant.

340Kw is pretty impressive. Can you post your dyno chart(s)? Stock cams? VCT working?

That thing on top an air/oil separator? If so you want sump and cam cover breathers going into your catch can and instead of a vent on the catch can a line going through your air/oil separator to the turbo intake (nothing going to atmosphere). Catch can could have a drain at bottom going back to sump.

Why would it not?