KiwiRS4T

I have heatshield above my highmount under the bonnet and also between the exhaust and the abs and piping on the firewall.

My sump vents are certainly not below the oil line - that would be pointless as they would not act as vents.

You can set the link to cut the engine if oil pressure goes below a predetermined level at x revs etc. A 1.0mm restrictor would be better at keeping more oil in the sump. Attached is a (very) rough drawing of my catch can baffles and beside it a better designed baffle system (beyond my capabilities but easy for Robbie). Actually you could just have a series of horizontal plates (round or square depending on the shape of the catch can) with holes cut in them with a tube running from a hole in the bottom plate to the outlet.

No there is a motor for each window. See if you can pull the switch out and short the wires. Driver's window gets most use so wears out first.

^^^what he said. The last 10 or so pages will answer all your questions and tell you what works and why.

Oil testing is cheap. It will tell you if you have been keeping your oil for too long or not without guesswork.

Thought you'd have yours running by now! Looking forward to your results...

Man you work fast! Interested in the step by step guide...

What's it for your R33 or R34? For R34 you're much better off with a Nistune chip

Receipt looks a bit sus to me. I would have a good look at the car when you get it.

Looks pretty good in the pics. Is there a commercial inspection service available? I can understand members not wanting to be responsible for your purchase. Would be good to get it road tested and look for evidence of crash repair or respray. At that price and mileage I would get someone to do a cambelt and water pump and check all the belts and hoses - the turbo's days could be numbered but the price looks ok.

I use Motul 15 40 - why do you want to use mineral oil? Full synthetic gives you a better safety margin for the track.

Very interesting but OP has an auto R33 so development potential is limited. To OP: you have it the wrong way around - you want your daily to be auto and your track car manual.

Probably - its an old turbo could go bang any time or last a few more years.

I was under the impression that no-one had successfully undertaken the internal vct supply mod. I guess to be absolutely sure that it is working as it is supposed to you would have to check on a dyno. Maybe you could try a timed 80 -120 run with the vct on and off and see if there is any difference.

^^^what he said...try pulling up a hill in third and then clutch kick (slam it to the floor and up quickly) while maintaining pressure on the accelerator - if your rear wheels smoke up the clutch is ok but if the revs don't come back instantly time for a new clutch.

Assuming your car is a manual you should probably get a Neo head and the ecu loom and bits to go with it.

I take it you replaced the plugs at the same time and gapped them down to 0,8mm? What boost are you seeing? You mention the MAF and TPS but could be CAS Could be a lot of other things of course!

Looks good on paper. Need to have a good look at it and test drive. How long ago was the rebuild? 330akw will be pretty zippy

Your photo doesn't show what you have done with the boost T Also fiddling with the boost without a boost gauge is a recipe for disaster. Ideally your vent should run back to the bov return line

Shouldn't need part numbers - just tell your supplier what you want and they should be able to procure. They may not be in stock anywhere and have to be made to order. Having said that I haven't seen JE pistons mentioned in a build lately.

And put in some 100% synthetic oil.

Try Guilt-Toy on this site for a tune.

DET Neo head also has better cams

Same as yours PWR