KiwiRS4T

Traction control was only on 2wd versions (actually I though S2 only but could be wrong). if that's you somewhere in this site there are instructions on how to add a resistor somewhere to put the check light out. Someone who has done it might be able to point you to it if you can't find it by searching. See post#9 in this thread.

Did some more reading and you may well be right. But why not email Getrag as well?

Its your car you can put sawdust and banana peels in your Getrag if you like but I would only consider using quality ATF. I have that Nismo oil in my DIFF (which is what the last six words of your post says to do) Note that they supply 2 Litres when a DRY gearbox takes 4.1L so I doubt they intend you should put it in the gearbox... and you will need still more ATF for the transfer case. And if you want confirmation don't ask Nismo ask Getrag

They are UGLY - changed my side and front indicators to clear - Stageas will never be a collector's item!

As Mark says PSI is irrelevant - revs, power and cam profile will determine the need for new springs.

Remove diff. Take to Award Diff & Gearbox Services.

OK by now you see that 6 x 1 is the bolt arrangement - the Stagea is 3 x 2. The Stagea diff will have either a crappy viscous LSD or no LSD so it is not much use to you. You may be able to get the R34GTR diff to work by changing the C&P if it was not a V spec but you will need 6 x 1 axles of the right length. The Stagea crownwheel and pinion is close but not exactly the same as the GTR ratio. It may still pay for you to look for an R32 or 33 GTR rear end - you should be able to sell the R34GTR no problem.

You're in luck - poster at the top of this page has a 3.54 rear for you and I have the front!

Your best option will probably be a Nistune chipped ecu. Do some Googling to find out what that means for your car and if you still need help after that post up your location and the engine/turbo/fuelling set up in your car.

All GTR axles are 6 x 1. They are thicker and stronger than the GTT. You will have to find a way to mount your attessa pump. I will look under my car later and see how it was done, We also change over the abs rings. The 3.54 diffs are sought after so you should have no trouble selling it.

Nothing less than a Motec with all options switched on will do.

If you are doing a budget build you will be wanting an ecu that can be Nistuned. Keep that in mind and get an ecu and loom that will allow this.

If you are planning to keep the GTR long term and can afford it why not?!

Do you have any self-service wreckers over there? Failing that just take along the pic that you have posted here. Or follow John's eBay link!

Cusco camber arms for the front. Quality costs but safety an issue with cheap brands.

If you go to the track at all a full synthetic gives you a measure of extra protection. There are lots of opinions about viscosity but I use Motul 300V 15W 40 If you have an oil pressure gauge and preferably an oil temp gauge as well you can see what works for you.

Looks good. Check it out as thoroughly as you can,

The answer is yes, but not because it has forged pistons. It is worth paying extra for a car that has been competently reconditioned reasonably recently and for which there is evidence in the form of receipts, dyno sheets, maybe a compression test, road test and examination by someone who knows what to look for. If you can get a well looked after car then its is likely that the clutch is good, brakes and suspension have been properly maintained etc. GTR owners will tell you that they are money pits and if you can avoid expensive repairs soon after purchase so much the better.

If you upgraded the turbos to make more power then you will need to retune the engine which will only be possible if you have an upgraded ecu (with Nistune chip, PFC, Link, etc).

Funny... took me less than a minute to find one on ebay.com.au for AU$46.64

If you really can't find a replacement take your head to a shop to see if it can be repaired.

Here is a sensor similar to mine: http://www.nzefi.com/product/oil-pressure-sensor-0-150-psi/

Sounds good but get a brand new fuel pump and preferably new injectors as well.

Will Nissan not get one in for you or do they want too much $$$ for it?

Broken M/C Look inside car for fluid leaking down inside of bulkhead. Clutch worn out.