KiwiRS4T

Can't quite see from the video but I don't like the way you said " lift pump to surge tank then 044 to fuel filter to reg and rail" I hope you meant from fuel filter to rail and then regulator.

Well the GTR rotors are 296 x 32 and the later GTST are 296 x 30 so if the offset is the same you should be ok. The calipers are the expensive item so you could always buy some GTR rotors if it doesn't work.

Try scouring the "drivetrain and transmission" section. ( I think a flywheel comes with the Nismo kit).

The logic is simple. When the wastegate is shut all of the exhaust will go through the turbo. When the wastgate opens if the path is not direct much (or too much) of the exhaust will continue to flow through the turbo leading to overboosting. Here's how mine goes:

No point in upgrading the injectors with the stock turbo - you're not going to crack 200kw

Have you tried Dan at Cockram Nissan? He gets me parts at a good price (fellow SDU member). There are plenty of M35s being wrecked (ref TradeMe) but with the amount of labour involved I'd rather use new parts.

No should be mounted so that gate is easiest path to travel. Off the turbo housing is best.

I think R32 has a cable drive. You can correct the electronic signal with the right gear or if you can still get them a Jaycar Speedo corrector.

gap your plugs down to 0.8mm 1,1mm is about 43 thousandths of an inch 0.8mm is about 31 thou - still a massive gap And don't forget the gap just grows as the km go by.

My wastegate is ported off the GT3540 like so:

Not enough - you want better than 9 to 1

301 to 399 rwkw. Too many unknowns. Is it going to be fully balanced with a new harmonic balancer and revved to 9000+ or standard and limited to 7000? Build and tune all count for a lot. You may end up with a sky high compression ratio which will be a problem unless you have access to E85. Don't use Bosch pumps - get something more modern, quieter and E85 friendly.

Just check - did he put all of 10L or so in it? Lines all reconnected properly? Level correct? Does it go through all the gears ok? kick down ok? May not be the auto - maybe new plugs?! If it is solenoids (hard to imagine they go all at once) MV automatics do this kind of work otherwise I guess any transmission shop - don't know if its a DIY proposition.

Chart now attached to my first post

Actually in the interests of science Shred Industries Performance did this test on an R32 GTR in 2011 and got 200.6KW and 189.7KW. Don't know what kind of dyno - was a Dynapack but don't know if rollers or hub. I have the chart if anyone is really keen to see it.

Good info GTRPSI - a question: I have never had a transfer case apart - do the plates in the clutch pack have faces that wear? Is there any point in getting new plates or do you find the old plates generally or always serviceable? Also another- I have heard that all transfer cases are not the same e.g. there is reliable info that the Stagea has 4 pucks pushing the clutch packs together while the GTR has 6. But I have also heard tell that the R33 GTR transfer case is stronger than the R34 GTR - anyone able to confirm and say what the difference is?

Should be fine Dave. Main differences are between manual and auto but in the Stagea there appears to be no difference between 2wd and awd. The only thing is traction control so depends where you got your 2wd ecu. It should definitely be perfectly safe to plug in and try.

Can't see a problem Dave but I'll go to my (Japanese) workshop manual and see if there is any difference.

Compression test may tell you all you need to know. I know from experience that an RB25DET will still go quite fast on 4 1/2 cylinders so the fact that it is still running doesn't mean a lot.

Have a read of the RB30 thread and you will see the mods necessary to fix

Sorry mate long time since I did mine but maybe remove rear seat and the door surround for a start

Get price and delivery times from http://palmside.co.nz/product_cid_10839.html or http://quaife.co.uk/contact-quaife or Quaife America (Google for details)

R34 SMIC will require modification to fit. Will probably perform OK with that turbo but you may as well go straight to a return flow FMIC which should fit without too many modifications. If you already have an R34 SMIC just stick with it for now and change it if necessary.

So far as I know all drum parking brakes are the same: Stagea, R33, GTR etc so you should be able to find what you want from Nissan. I have never replaced the springs etc on any drum brakes - only the wheel cylinders which we don't have.

Hardly less hassle but certainly as better solution if you have money to burn. I have managed without but if I had a 600kw build I would at least look at an accusump If not a full dry sump.