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Hey all, New here so forgive me if I make myself look like an idiot. Just looking to get my hands on some cheapish front coilovers to fit my R32 gtst-4. Not too fussed on brand. Preferably height adjustable. I'm based in Brisbane so could pick up or pay extra for shipping depending on location Thanks a bunch

This is an ad for a friend (its an amazing machine). Please contact him and not me. Item Description: Pulsar 93 Jap Spec SSS converted AWD / GTi-R RB hybrid Location: Melbourne Kilometers: 138000 Item Condition: Stunning in most respects, see extra info for more. Reason for selling: I want someone else to continue the dream Price and price conditions: Offers (around $12K) Extra Info: This was once another members project car, started in 2004 and completed the major modifications in 2007. I bought it in 2008 as I had gone as far as I could with my U13 FWD Jap Spec and this seemed the logical next step. Since buying it in it's "project" state I spent a further $9K in sorting out and strengthening the diffs and the gearbox. I also redid the intercooler and put on a GTi-R bonnet. This allowed me to put in Air Conditioning (recently serviced 3 months ago for $650). Interior needed to be redone with new carpets etc as some parts had gone missing in the last "strip out". The car was off the road for quite a long time and lately the car has been driven on weekends mostly. It has never been my daily driver but saying that it drives perfectly in traffic etc and I am still smiling after a 2 hour expedition to Geelong. I just paid the rego in Feb and realised that I am being selfish for holding on to it as someone else could appreciate a bit of PGA history and give it the love I wish I had the time to give it. Therefore "this is the year I sell" and it will also be the first time in 10 years I have not owned a Jap Spec SSS. Here was the write up from the previous owner that captures perfectly the essence of why this car was built: A significant amount of money was spent on the car, I knew back when I started I would never make any of it back, it was planned to be a all-purpose daily driver. Two vehicles were used in the creation, a fully intact RB spec GTi-R purchased for this purpose, and my original '93 model Jap spec SSS. Neither of the vehicles were crashed or damaged before the conversion. Specs and parts are as follows: - GTiR RB Drivetrain/Gearbox (with front mechanical LSD), in conjunction with standard middle/rear LSDs. This drivetrain in conjunction with the suspension kit and better weight distribution (compared with a standard GTi-R) results in significant power oversteer, especially in the wet, so I would suggest a more experienced driver. - GTiR Model SR20DET straight out of above vehicle with 80,000km at the time of the conversion. Engine is otherwise unmodified. - Turbo is an GT2871R (bigger 440hp model) with HPC coated exhaust manifold and turbo ex housings. - APEXI AVC-R Boost controller. - Brakes are standard GTi-R brakes running Bendix ultimate pads all around. - Walbro GSS341 fuel pump - Exhaust is custom dual 2" system, a split dump pipe into 2" straight from the turbo to the rear mufflers, i.e. 2x catalytic converters, 2x resonators, and 2x mufflers, this was done to quiten down the system while trying not to restricting flow. The bumper had modifications done for the dual mufflers, in a "tasteful" way (i.e. no cannons), atm there are no tips on the mufflers. - Full GTi-R whiteline works suspension kit with Koni yellow adjustable shocks - Cusco front strut brace - Nismo front brake master cylinder brace - Full respray in Turbine Mica Grey (a heavy metallic-pearl grey colour used on the higher spec Commodores/HSVs). - Webasto Hollandia Sunroof (Stratos 700 model) with rolled edge roof (no ugly 'rubber trimming' like on most aftermarket sunroofs) - Genuine GTi-R front aluminium 'scuff plate' - N15 SSS Wheels (Lenso P600 are currently for sale separately) As it was never completed this vehicle is NOT ENGINEERED. It is however still registered and had a roadworthy after the completion, but it is adviseable that it be engineered if it was desired to be a daily driver (especially for insurance purposes). The car has current Victorian registration and insurance until January '14. For the bad points, well of course the engineers. There is also a rust bubble patch on the leading edge of the GTi-R bonnet as well as a paint blemish on the top of the drivers side C Pillar. The 2 front seats are dirty / marked (but I have put covers on them). There is no head unit or amp (but the speakers and tweeters are in there). The car could do with a dyno and tune as the Apexi has never been fully tuned / set up. I did have it mounted "stealth" in the sunvisor though. The previous owner and I totalled up the money he had spent to date and stopped when it hit $42,000, even things like the sunroof was $2500. Considering I have done most of the hard work (apart from the engineering) and spent an extra $9,000 you can see that this car has had some serious $$$ spent on it. With that in mind I am looking for $12K. https://www.dropbox.com/s/lf4b0li0t4a2hha/IMG_5370%20%28Small%29.JPG https://www.dropbox.com/s/fy3jqqtj4naq3ea/IMG_5374%20%28Small%29.JPG https://www.dropbox.com/s/u0v0gryqqmbw619/IMG_5373%20%28Small%29.JPG https://www.dropbox.com/s/o9ldxumxedrn30c/IMG_5356%20%28Small%29.JPG https://www.dropbox.com/s/pghrs02hdh3maog/IMG_5401%20%28Small%29.JPG https://www.dropbox.com/s/smay7vmjixx10o3/IMG_5405%20%28Small%29.JPG Happy to chat on the phone 0438 543 738. David.

Hey all, im new. i live in the United States, and just ordered a 1990 R32 Sedan through an importer. its finally coming up on the 25 year federal exemption. my issue here is, ive been searching everywhere, and cant find anything on R32 GTS4 (AWD) SEDANS. does anyone know production numbers, info, tech, anything? i simply cant find ANYTHING on a GTS4 SEDAN. i only find GTS4's or SEDANs, not both in one. anyways, thank you all in advance for at least looking at my post.

Hi all, I can't get my consult interface to work and I suspect a dud ECU consult interface. It's a S2 RSFour. I have checked it has 12V ignition connection and a good earth, and RX & TX wire continuity from the pins on my consult interface to the pins on the board. I have tried two different consult interfaces which work in other cars. So it must be the ECU - argh. I only have a 2WD ECU to swap in and test (both cars are auto though, and S2). Is anybody familiar enough with the ECU pinouts to know whether a 2WD ECU can be safely connected to a AWD ECU? I suspect it will be OK, because from a quick inspection it appears as though the only connection to the ATTESA system appears to be "integrated control signal (multiple communication)" which sounds like data to me - hopefully disconnected in the 2WD ECU? I have been going by a R34 ECU pinout. I don't know if it's different for stagea. Anybody know if it will be safe to test the 2WD ECU in the 4WD car? cheers DaveB

Selling my Nissan Stagea M35 Axis. If you are after a good cheap reliable wagon, then this is the car for you. I've owned the car for about 3 1/2 years and in that time it has served me well. Year: 2002 Colour: White Rego: Nov 14 KM: 104,XXX kms Engine is stock The car is good condition outside and inside. Clean tan leather interior and non smoker. The rims are the only thing that aren't as good. They are factory rims but pretty scratched up. Looking for around $11,500 ONO. I am also open to trades for something smaller like a newish VW Golf or similar (main reason I´m selling the car is its just too big for a single guy living in the Inner West, just don´t need all that space). Any questions, I'm happy to answer. I`ll add more pics later.

Hey all, im Ben-David. i live in Tucson, Arizona (USA). im 25, a US Army infantry veteran, and huge auto enthusiast i just recently ordered a 1990 R32 GTS4 Sedan through an importer. its finally coming up on the 25 year federal exemption, so now i get my forbidden jdm cars. my issue here is, ive been searching everywhere, and cant find anything on R32 GTS4 (AWD) SEDANS. does anyone know production numbers, info, tech, anything? i simply cant find ANYTHING on a GTS4 SEDAN. i only find GTS4's or SEDANs, not both in one. anyways, thank you all in advance for at least looking at my post.

Morning Everyone [/size] I was just wondering if any one can guide me on this issue I am having with my awd system on my r32 gts4. [/size] When I bought the car the awd system never worked and last night I thought I start playing doctor and see what is causing this system not to work. [/size] So Symptoms [/size] 1. When you turn the key on no AWD or Hicas lights come on, [/size] 2. Checked 10A fuse under Dash, Fuse is good ( Continuity ) but once u plug it in there is no power or Continuity. [/size] 3. Ecu no red light on & no wires cut [/size] 4. Fuse under hood ( anti-skid 30am) no continuity or power when key is turned on [/size] 5. Relay in the truck next to the latch has power but no continuity [/size] 6. I bypassed the Relay, pump comes on but if you hold it there for a while it makes a nasty noise... [/size] 7. There is fluid in Tank located in the truck [/size] I found a Attesa ECU wiring Diagram and will be working on it tonight, with searching I found that pin 42 sometimes need to be grounded. [/size] http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/for...ems-need-help/ This video Helped a lot. [/size] [/size] I need to Test the power wire to ECU and trace the wire from fuse box under dash to its power and ground, but if any one has had this issue it be great help save me some time and money. [/size] Cheers [/size] Rob[/size]

This is a break away thread from the World Time Attack Thread, I will put some repeated info at the start so this thread can stand alone. Background: This year I had the opportunity to work with Mark Berry and his team on his 2012 World Time Attack campaign. Mark runs two GTR’s at the top level of competition. His R32 GTR which is now famous (being to race at Time Attack in Japan) and his formidable R34 GTR with 530awkw which is a weapon. Those who were at the PM session of the July 19 QR Time Attack track day would have witnessed it put down a 51:46 on the sprint track. You would have also seen the traction problems Mark was having trying to get it to hook up out of corners. This is where I got involved. Mark had bought my AWD Controller II for his R32 GTR and while he was picking it up we got to discussing the R34 and the problems the car was having. It was clear that I had to build a custom controller for the car (all the Nissan gear was removed, including sensors) and it had to be done before WTAC. The project went extremely well and anyone who was at WTAC at Eastern Creek would have seen the difference. Mark loved the tune ability and after some tweaks the car was pulling over 2G cornering. The AWD Controller II in the R32 GTR also performed, and the result surprised everyone when Mark did a 1:34.66 (that time would have won last year’s open class). I have a full story of my experience as part of the race team on: www.timeattacktalk.com I was speaking to Mark today and he said there are no secrets and that I can post up data logging etc from the event. I will put together a write up and get it up on the web. Refresh From WTAC Thread - Asked about my new 4WD Controller II The 4WD Controller II is a freshen up of the version I, some of the parts in the version I were no longer available so I did a redesign. The V2 has a better processor and optimised internal algorithms and the output is more accurate. Plus the GPS stuff. Its hard to say if you would notice the difference, it would depend on the rest of the car to some degree and the driver. The V1 controller does a pretty good job, the Version 2 is a refinement. The Controller in Mark's 34GTR is a whole other story. For that car I had to design the complete ATTESA system from scratch. Mark had removed all the Nissan factory stuff, computers, sensors etc. In that car I have: 1. Front Lateral G 2. Front Longitudinal G 3. Front Gyro Z axis 4. Rear Lateral G 5. Rear Longitudinal G 6. Steering Angle 7. Throttle Position 8. Brake Pedal State 9. Front drive axle speed 10. Rear drive axle speed The controller then takes all these inputs, does a pile of signal processing and outputs the control signal to the hydraulic system. I also added true linear output control of the valve for smooth operation (not using a simple PWM control signal). Question: How do the Digital G Boxes Work and Compare that are available I have had a close look at the digital G boxes on the market (one of the suppliers even sent me some technical info to see if my controller would control their sensor). The marketing is interesting as they are presented to be "faster than the old analog sensors" that are in the factory cars. On closer inspection you will find that they are not actually a true replacement unit as like for like. The digital G boxes are programmed to modify the lateral G sensor as my 4WD Controller does. The difference is that the digital G boxes are fixed to one setting which will be what a particular driver liked on a given day in a particular car at a given race track. My 4WD Controller allows you to tune the unit to the setup of your car and make adjustments on the day. If you have a read of the article I put up on TimeAttackTalk.com I have quotes from Mark Berry on how much he loved being able to tune the unit live. The digital G boxes are equivalent to one setting on my controller. I'd guess you would get the unit and put it in your car, 'feel a difference' and think it was great but when you went to put down a good lap time end up frustrated that you could not make any adjustments. Are the digital G sensors "faster" than the factory sensors? I have data logged the factory G sensors and if they are working properly then I don't think there is any issue here. Mark Berry's R32 GTR put down a 1:34.66 at World Time Attack using my 4WD Controller II and the factory G sensor and factory ATTESA. Having said that, if the factory sensor is damaged then replacing it would be a good idea. In Mark's R34 GTR I was testing a new Digital G sensor I am building (it was the front Lateral G and Longitudinal G sensor). The difference is I will make this a true replacement sensor, and my adivce would be to use the 4WD Controller II as the means of adjustment. That way you will have a truely tuneable system. On a big power, highly modified car such as Mark's R34 GTR, the factory system is well out of its tuneable range. That's why we built a new system from scratch, and as you see from the list above, it takes a lot of inputs to properly control the car. But with this level of control we were able to tune the handling in fine detail and ended up with over 2G of lateral load through turn 1.

Due to unforseen circumstances I have had to sell off parts from my uncompleted project. Firstly the engine: RB30DET RB25DE stock head full reco with 110lb valve springs RB30 block sonic checked and awd machined, with machining for tensioner pully relocation CUSTOM side feed intake plenum with trumpets inside cost $1350 CP pistons 86.5mm Spool Rods ARP main, rod and head studs NITTO OIL pump NITTO crank collar ROSS metal jacket balancer NPC 10 inch clutch TOMEI 1MM oil restrictor x 2 TOMEI SUMP baffle HI OCTANE RACING awd SUMP adaptor. NISMO engine mounts 6BOOST manifold TIAL 60MM wastegate BORG WARNER EFR 8374 DENSO 650CC low impedance injectors TURBOSMART FPR800 with fuel pressure gauge Custom Dual entry fuel rail $700 of braided Teflon line for turbo oil feed, 2x water and 1x return. YELLOW JACKET cool packs. GTS4 AWD SUMP with 4.33 diff. Engine is new! Has not been run yet! Looking for $16000. Runs CP file back rings ACL RACING big and mains bearings at .25 FULLY BALANCED ENGINE, engine pistons are also machine fitted to its specific bore and balanced accordingly. Machine work alone was $3500. Also rebuilt r32gtr box so now 4th gear crunch $900 APEXI A.V.C.A.R $400 3INCH MAGNAFLOW 100 CELL CAT.$120 Walbro 040 $120 Fully rebuilt r33 GTST brake callipers full set $800 with rotors and new Lucas pads