KiwiRS4T

I got a turbo highflowed by GCG about 6 years ago for nearly $2k. Would choose Hypergear today (if I were in Aus - actually have a top turbo man locally) - continuous development, better prices, feedback.

Make a decision! You are not going to get real world figures as it is unlikely that someone would install a Greddy plenum with ITBs and then take it off and stick another aftermarket plenum with a single T/B without making any other changes to give you the comparison you want. If you are swayed by numbers I vote for the ITBs.

My car is certified with 20 and 25mm bolt on spacers. Its been my daily transport as well as weekend track car for three years. Spacers must be hubcentric.

Deatschwerks DW200 series is similar in performance to Walbro 255 or the DW300 is a step up (320lph) And for the OP there are a couple of tutorials on directly wiring the pump in the "how to DIY" section of this website (not the Stagea one, the general one).

Tried Nissan?

If its a street car forget about the Bosch pumps - they are as noisy as (at least mine is) and I imagine 2 would be even worse. There are better more modern pumps available now.

Slightly off topic but what are the specs of the Skyline?

I have been tracking my daily driver for three years and it just had rings, bearings and new conrod bolts. Rips will tell you that' s good for 500hp. If you want more and start reboring then you may as well go the whole hog with forged pistons, new harmonic balancer, full balancing etc. Stock rods are solid as...just need better bolts.

You will be aware that RIPS put a 3.2 (pretty sure it was a Nitto) in a Stagea and made 1000kw...

No its not true that 26s are better on the track. It is true that there have been a few more highly developed RB30 32 and 34s built in the last few years and they can indeed rev to 10k but at the end of the day , when all's said and done etc etc the fastest car on the track will be the best built best driven car and the capacity will just be a factor, not the deciding factor.

And don't wonder about the fuel filter - change it forthwith. Stock ecu normally runs rich. Have you replaced the plugs?

Many workshops are like builders - they don't like turning down work so they agree to do your job even though they are busy. And of course the best shops are always busy. The hard bit is priority - regular customers and mates probably get priority. Also I think regular calls for updates are in order...and often necessary!

Well done (apart from stretched tyres ) - Even with those mods will benefit from a Nistune chip and tune!

Check the blue plates on the bulkhead. I think the Stagea is RE5Ro1A (s1 was Re4Ro1A). I guess they will be the same but don't know for sure.

Probably best way is to swap out a known good box from someone who has done a manual conversion. I took mine to the scrap dealer but you would probably pay in the range of $1 to $200 for one. Or you could try an oil change and hope that might do it.

You have checked the for sale section on here? And put up a parts wanted?

Although I have recommended a bigger sump it is NOT in fact essential. I have just reread your post where you say you hardly track the car. I do take my RB30 with an N1 pump to the track and I have a stock RB26 sump with Tomei baffle kit. I also have 2 x 1.00mm restrictors and a good sump ventilation system. It has been fine for three or more years now. But if you do want an enlarged sump there is no reason why deeper is better - with a good system of gates it is only capacity that matters. Have a look at some of the sumps on Rips engines: http://www.ripsracing.com/gallery/Photo-Gallery-g5/index.html

If you go to the DIY section in the Stagea forum you will find a manual conversion guide most of which should apply. Manual Stagea gearboxes are very rare - I have a GTR box from an R33GTR in mine. The Atessa computer is separate so should be no problem .

The danger of emptying your sump is real. You should probably fit restrictors in the oil supply as a minimum but an enlarged capacity sump is a really good idea. Someone in the US has recently imported a couple from Racefab so maybe worth a look if you have time for shipping: http://racefab.co.nz

Its really not a valid question on its own and even my first reply was wrong. The amount of boost has nothing to do with valve springs etc . The real questions are how much power and how many revs and to what use is the engine being put?

I vote for the 4.1 4.3 helps compensate for lack of power but you would just be spinning all four. Rips kept the stock 4.1 in his 9 second Stagea. Psymins Stagea with a mere 550awkw was wheelspinning al the way down the 1/4 mile (although it wasn't set up for dragging) with GTR 4.1 diffs.

Big turbo big exhaust adequate fuel supply rest are optional.

And its just a better injector. No need to "bump up" the fuel pressure.

Dead instruments is common on old Nissans. My Stagea speedo, tacho, fuel gauge and temp gauge sometimes die for no obvious reason and then come to life. Some people say you need to take out the cluster and apply heat to the soldered joints.

Pumps sound dodgy but if you want to use them dummy them up with a battery and a couple of petrol cans and measure the output (flow) and pressure before you start installing them in a car.