KiwiRS4T

Is your larger sump suitably baffled and gated? Accusump is not a bandaid in my view but a valid solution - but it costs a bit and takes up room.

Have you got an ECU that will run the VCT? Usually R33 and Neo ECUs are quite different.

The wastegate is bigger than you need but that shoudn't be the problem -its how well it works. In my opinion its essential that everyone learns how their wastegate and boost controller works. I must say I am a slow learner and it took me a fair while but often everyone will assume that someone else knows what they are doing or has set everything up right. Do a lot of Googling and find out just how your boost controller works and how it should be set up so that you can eliminate problems.

Save yourself the trouble and forget about the "rear head drain". There is no evidence that it does any good at all. A couple of fittings in the sump are a good move though. Read the thread and all will be revealed.

How hard would it be to swap in another wastegate to try?

When I put the R33 GTR box in my Stagea I am pretty sure I just reused the auto Stagea driveshaft. Mind you I also used an R32 GTR diff. Stagea diffs have 3x2 bolt pattern for the axles. Measure one up to see. No ides what the GTS4 driveshaft is like though.

Just get new parts from Nissan. Will not be sloppy.

Probably because no-one's done it. Like they say anything's possible with enough time and money but there are major problems. The S1 Stagea has the auto computer inside the main ecu which is not able to be Nistuned which would make it tricky to run the GTR engine. The S2 has a different ecu and if Nistuned could possibly run a single turbo GTR. If you must have an auto just buy an Audi RS6. Or if its for the drags RIPS has modified a 2 speed Powerglide trans that will bolt up to the awd GTR.

Won't do any harm to give the coils a good clean and maybe insulate them but have you had a new set of plugs lately? And gap them down to 0.8mm

Yep I think they are quite good looking wheels. I put a spoiler on my car too - the only bit of expenditure that doesn't make the car go faster - because I think it improves the look a lot. I would like to lose the roof rails but can't justify the cost atm.

Nissan

Had a set on my C34 -looked good on that too!

As above - new brake fluid, better pads will do the job. M/C stopper and braided lines will give better pedal feel. Stock rotors will be fine - you won't notice any difference with more expensive ones on the street.

Because you said this: My ac belt has came off twice in two days first time completely gone and damaged power steering belt 2nd time belt came off still in one piece but ended up damaging my brand new radiator Has any one found a solution for this as I would like to keep my air con for summer

I have to say I am sceptical. Apart from putting this substance in your tank what else was done between runs? Do you have an aftermarket ecu? Was there any alteration to timing or fuelling? Ideally you would have had a small fuel container and then immediately done a run with fresh straight petrol. I would like to see timed 80 - 120km/hr runs in third and fourth compared. In short I would want to see a lot more testing. How much does this stuff cost and does it work out cheaper than better quality fuel? And does it really make any difference to a car with a stock ecu? It is possible that you have stumbled across a miracle additive but every other additive, tablet, device or black box in the past has not stood up to rigorous testing.

What do you mean by narrowband? Have you got a Lambda sensor (wideband) that also has a narrowband output? If so the latter should be fine for your ecu. Having said that like most people running a Link I have ditched the O2 sensor as the Link can be tuned to take care of everything. Not sure about PFC

How about selling the damper to someone with heaps more power than you and then you could buy a 500hp damper .

I can't get past the "only 15,000km on them" - I have chewed out tyres in 15,000km. I think you would be hard put to say they were not fit for purpose having done 15,000km.

Your original settings look fine. I find you have to take a firm line with wheel alignment people. Explain, if necessary, that you are paying them to do what you want not what they want . I give them the specs and tell them to achieve them. If the figures they gave you are correct that alignment is ridiculous. That amount of toe out at the rear will make you wander all over the place. Your original castor settings for the front would give you straight line stability at high speed - why would you want to reduce that? I would go back to them with your original chart and tell them that's what you want. if you didn't do that the first time then they have a case for making you pay again ...but their "alignment" is just no good.

^^^ your best option! Someone will buy yours as an upgrade (e.g. for a C34 Stagea).

Sell the GTR calipers - buy the right ones (brembos?)- shouldn't be too much extra

I can get stock rotors for much the same price as machining - but sadly not for my D2s.

Sounds like your solenoid is normally closed so I would guess its wired wrongly (or the Profec is stuffed).

Best bet for an auto S1 Stagea is Greddy E-Manage (or an HKS F-con if you have a tuner handy who has the necessary licences software and experience) piggy backed on to the stock ecu. Better still get a manual box!

Good work! Dyno chart?