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KiwiRS4T

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Everything posted by KiwiRS4T

  1. Don't wish to be rude but I have heard people before saying they can't find any decent RB tuners in Brisbane - if you can't make it all the way to Sydney it seems Guilt Toy (Anthony) is back in Australia and has a dyno in Newcastle. Might be worth the trip (and yes got rid of the O2 sensor when I got my Link). BTW if you don't change your cat and do go back to the same tuner ask him to drop the exhaust and do another run.
  2. There's a big difference between batch ignition and batch injection. But batch ignition is not a big deal at most normal levels. My G4 Link is not sequential ...you need to go to the more expensive version to get that.
  3. See your tuner and see what they say. If they have no positive ideas find another tuner. And measure your fuel consumption in litres per 100km so you know exactly where you are.
  4. If you use a super thin gasket your mating surfaces may not be good enough. If you use a factory stock gasket you should still end up with a little higher compression. FWIW I have used stone type hone and a sharpened piece of a large machine hacksaw blade for a scraper.
  5. Easiest solution use the stock throttle body and tps.
  6. Hone doesn't true it up - just gets rid of the glaze.
  7. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Skyline-R34-Ecu-Computer-/141346852882?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20e8edd012
  8. I doubt you can turbo it without reprogramming or replacing the ECU. Is there not a VW forum that can tell you the best way to get more power from your V6? Here ya go: http://forums.motortrend.com/70/9587529/motor-trend-garage/what-can-i-do-with-a-2000-vw-passat-v6/index.html
  9. I would have thought the gearboxes were the same so no need to change. You should be fine so long as you know its all in the tune - make sure you get a good RB experienced tuner. You should probably (don't know for sure) get an auto DET ecu with a Nistune chip ...but if you run an aftermarket boost controller the loom should probably be ok,
  10. I've had a Walbro GSS 341 in my tank for about 5 years. It was my only pump but when I upgraded the turbo I directly wired the pump. When I fitted the RB30 I also fitted a surge tank and exterior pump but kept the Walbro as a lift pump and its still fine. No E85 though EFI sell them as being ethanol compatible. A quick Google lists quite a few users on E85 with their old Walbros for many years.
  11. If you haven't upgraded your turbo you will get zero benefit from the Z32 afm - if you have upgraded your turbo you should get a Nistune chip as a minimum.
  12. Few people use the Quaife rear - most use the Nismo or recond stocker (or can you get Kaaz at a good price?)
  13. See below: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/286728-nissan-gtr-high-idle-and-throttle-body-fix/
  14. I call them "pot mitts" but read the label in the supermarket...
  15. Not steel but stainless
  16. Get some E85 and turn up the boost - you should be able to crack 400kw ( I assume you have an aftermarket ecu etc).
  17. Have you got an aftermarket ecu? How you going to tune it? You can' t really call changing your inlet and exhaust manifolds an upgrade. A bigger turbo is an upgrade. Having said that you shouldn't have lost much power. Have you moved the CAS at all? No 1 suspect is boost leak. See if you can test the system by pressurizing it and look for leaks.
  18. Turbo? N/A? Reduce the plug gap to 0.8mm and thoroughly clean the coils while you're at it.
  19. If you want your car to go faster spend your time and money on tyres, suspension and brakes. If you want it to sound like a turbo powered car buy a GTT.
  20. To make sure take the lead off the water temp sensor (the one with two terminals) - ecu should provide a default cold start map (at least stock one does - don't know about pfc).
  21. yes and yes google for full explanation
  22. Fuel damper
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