KiwiRS4T

Looks cool - sounds good!

It would be worth your while to undo the arms and turn them to make all the thread disappear. Don't know how much that would give you but if that's not enough... time to take to the turnbuckle with a hacksaw (unless you can find some thinner lock nuts)!

+1 for scotty - tell him what you want to do and he will supply stuff that will fit and work.

What wideband? Do they not provide full instructions on how to log? If not they should be available on-line. What ecu do you have?

9.5:1 would be better. You want different pistons.

OK my message service problems appear to have been fixed by changing from Firefox to IE so not a website problem!

If you don't get a reply just google "electronic speedometer drive for R32 gearbox" or something like that . As for wiring apart from the speed signal which is obvious there is just the reverse light which you should be able to work out with a multimeter and don't forget the handbrake warning light.

Getting the error message 504 (today 1620 NZ time 26/10) and also problems with message service - my answers disappear into the limbo and I can't delete messages...

When I log on there is a little red 1 to tell me there is a message. I open the message and reply but next time I log on the little red number appears again and when I open the message there is no sign of my reply. I have replied about 4 or 5 times and sometimes my answer magically appears on the screen but next time I log on to SAU the wee number is there and my reply is not! I'll give it 12 hours and maybe it will sua sponte come right!

You sure? Other suggestions include looking at S14 brakes. Bottom line is Stageas do not have "turbo" brakes like the GTT - can't imagine why not as the Stagea is a bit heavier than the R34. Have you had a set of DB1144 to compare with what you have got on your car now? They are the single pot stockers still? Maybe if you post up a pic with the dimensions supplied it might ring a bell with someone. I will enquire with my contact in Nissan (could take a few days as he is in another cirty).

Dot 4 is standard. What you need to look for is the temperature rating - the higher the better. I use Motul RBF600 - there are a couple of others in that range. More important than the rating is keeping it fresh so at a minimum change it annually.

OK went to my brake supplier and according to his computer its the same as the awd: DB1144

Google that question for a comprehensive answer

You can just use the front prop shaft from your auto they are all the same. You may have to do something about your speedo drive.

Just confirming you have a turbo? I'll try to get to my supplier tomorrow and see what they have.

Tried Nissan? Alternatively take out a pad and either take it to a brake shop or trace out the outline and take that along and I am sure some Nissan pad will fit.

Front and rear leave the VCT alone. What kind of oil pump are you using? What are you using the car for - track only? Street car? Circuit track days? Actually mines on an RB30 block with an RB25DET head with hydraulic lifters and an external supply to the VCT. Never mind Tomei get the restrictors from me!

I think most people use the $200 - $300 version of which this is a cheapo example: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/electronics/auction-796550481.htm

Can't believe you're still thinking of running a line from the head to the sump after reading the thread. Don't forget vct supplies some oil to the top but if you are not keen on blocking off one of the oil supplies you can do what I did - fit 2 x 1.0mm restrictors.

It will fit. You may have to "adjust " it to clear the floor. I presume you have a full 3in system to go on the back of it?

Pull the CAS off and check it and the drive on the cam . If its the CAS you're in luck - I just happen to have an Hitachi CAS for sale. If its the bit on the end of the cam its a bit more complicated!

Sorry threw mine away...but can you not just measure the length and diameter and go to an engineers supply shop and buy a couple of high tensile bolts and Nyloc nuts? Sorry was thinking of camber but without looking would it hold also for castor arms?

Have you had a tune at all? You really should get it tuned now even if you want to tune it yourself later. What do you know about the timing and is it rich everywhere or could it be leaning out under some circumstances? Impressive build though!

I guess you could wind the solenoid out and ground the wire and see if it moves. If you set the enable speed to 0 then surely it won't change? What is the disengage speed set at? Why do you not have a speed signal to your ecu?

Not so bad. Nice looking car - put your money towards better brakes and suspension instead.