KiwiRS4T

Most car parts seem to be cheaper here but not windscreens. Cost me $800 for a replacement last time - they did get the right tint. They offered the choice of the heater elements but for an extra $200 I gave it a miss (bit sorry now its winter!).

Ace tuner

Yes its the wrong place - this question was asked in the forced induction (turbocharged) section below and you will find a link to the "how to" there. You only need a capital letter at the beginning of each sentence and all the other words can start with a lower case letter.

I don't know the why but I was wrecking a written off stagea and pulled that thing apart to see what it did and it had a small busbar inside to which all the wires were connected.

Yep that's what it is.

You know that an RB20 turbo at 10 psi will be shifting less air than an RB25 turbo at the same pressure...(?) Get your afrs checked. Pump should be ok but better if directly wired for full voltage. Have you gapped plugs down to .8mm?

Have you checked fuel pressure? Pump on the way out?

Have you had it retuned since you changed the injectors and the coils? You say its getting fuel but is it enough fuel - is the pump on the way out? Can you test the fuel pressure?

I got the R33 kit but I have a FFP. You should be able to adapt the R34 kit with maybe a few more elbows etc. You may need a thinner aircond fan (I just angled the fmic a bit and tidied the wiring). You only really need upgraded calipers and rotors for repeated hard stops (as on the track) so for street use you should be able to improve the feel by replacing the fluid with e.g. Motul RBF600, braided lines, a MC stopper and some decent street pads (but inspect pistons and M/C for leaks).

Don't just buy a "cat back" system. As above get someone to make you one including the front pipe. A competent shop will make you one that is legal and still sounds good.

I bought this HDi kit : http://www.performance-wise.com/USERIMAGES/procart11.htm If you have stock injectors you may need to upgrade (see Scotty for some to suit your Neo engine) and also get a Z32 afm Then a retune....do not scrimp on the tune - its the key to nice performance and long life. Not sure that Poncams will get it boosting earlier so I would spend the money elsewhere. GTT or GTR brakes would be nice but most important is new brake fluid, brake lines, a MC stopper and some good pads. If you have stock sway bars heavier replacements (see Dale) will transform the boat like cornering. After that a set of Bilsteins would be nice (don't get too stiff springs - in fact you could keep the stockers). If you are not going manual then beefing up the auto is advisable!

R32 can be put into rwd by pulling a fuse so its easy to fit a switch. R33 and R34 not so but there is a plug you can pull to disable the fwd and you can fit a switch to that. The procedure is a little more complicated than on/off and I'll quote (more or less) from the manual: Locate the "air bleed" wire behind the drivers kick panel, it's a plug with a single wire either side (usually green socket, white plug). Disconnect it. Start car. As key comes back to the ON position, within 10 seconds, depress brake pedal 5 times, 4WD light will start flashing to indicate you are in 2WD mode. To go back to 4WD mode, turn car off, reconnect plug and off you go.

http://www.kelford.co.nz/

Kelfords http://www.kelford.co.nz/

In order to give useful advice it would be good to know what you use the car for. Do you track it or drag it? Also your current mods include an etc - what's that? If you look after it and get a good tune it could do another couple of 100,000km so I wouldn't be pulling the motor out just yet.

Probably someone local to you could repair it. Real shame about your GTS4

On a Stagea the plug is under the battery/fusebox if that helps.

Half shafts are thicker should think everything is stronger. GTR is 6 x 1 bolt pattern.

Strictly it doesn't even need blocking - it has a seal and anything that does somehow get past the seal is just going into the now redundant transfer case. And the auto box is a heavy item to lug around - save yourself the bother!

2001 stagea? If its a VQ you can forget about the nistune. If its an RB25 Neo you'll be sweet but you'll need some injectors to suit the Neo ... as above see Scotty he'll put you straight!

Basic question: do you have a boost gauge? If not get at least a cheap second hand one. Are you are aiming at 8 - 10 psi because you are making less than that now? If so you have a problem! But If you want a few more psi than 10 you could buy or make a simple mechanical boost T.

Where are you? State your location and someone should be able to point you towards a workshop that can diagnose problems and fix them.

An intercooler spray kit will certainly increase the efficiency of the intercooler (see WRX STI for example). The question is how good was the kit installed on your car and does it work properly?

^Tried a piece of pipe on the end of the breaker bar to extend the leverage? Warning! Undo the filler first - you don't want to drain it and then find you can't get any oil back into it (maybe you are referring to the filler anyway!?).

300kw on the street is quite quick. .. but you will still be done by Evos, WRX etc. On the track or drag strip you will have to do some serious work on the tyres and suspension etc to take advantage of more power.