Jump to content
SAU Community

KiwiRS4T

Contributor
  • Posts

    9,451
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7
  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by KiwiRS4T

  1. My Tomei metal head gasket has been on and off 3 times now no problem. Not so sure about other types.
  2. My first S1 n/a Stagea had a paper thin radiator. I replaced it with a thicker stock one.
  3. I think Scott has them - try a PM
  4. Funny I was just thinking the opposite - being old school I like to check with plasti- gauge after establishing the clearances by measurement. Using an N1 pump my basically stock RB30 was running at well over 100psi from cold at 5000rev/min. The OP's pressures should be adequate with your suggestion of a heavier oil and maybe less oil control issues will present themselves!
  5. Stop idling give it some stick!
  6. Buy a Toyota Corolla and save up for the RB34GTT when you have your full licence.
  7. If you want to put a twin cam head on it read the thread in this section. If you just want to put a turbo on your current engine start by googling "+T on an RB30" - that should get you on the way.
  8. I didn't see anyone say you should get a high mount manifold. What's your power goal? Are you sure its the IG that's causing the boost drop or maybe its just your turbo running out of puff.
  9. Poncams but why are you doing cams anyway? Usually a lot of other priorities for the dollar.
  10. Just remembered another reason why I have spacers - with wider than stock wheels my rims would otherwise rub on the shocks (on the rears) when I throw it into a corner.
  11. ^^^ Yep just replacing the bushes should help heaps. I have "pineapples" in my car because I try to do regular track work but when you put them in you'll get a drone from the diff... the instruction that come with them say you can put them in for a track meeting or the drags and take them out for the street but who can be bothered doing that?! Also check rear toe setting - toe out will make the car wander - zero is a good setting for the AWD.
  12. HP or KW? That's another reason I went for the GTR diff and axles - the half shafts are thicker.
  13. Thought I had replied to this - must have forgotten to hit "post" R32 and R33 GTR are the same. GTR diffs have 6 x 1 bolt pattern- I have a complete R32GTR rear end in my car - diff, axles, brakes (bit of a mission to relocate the Atessa pump)and an R33 front diff . But you should be able to get a Nismo centre for your diff. They are listed here: http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competition/lsd/pdf/lsd_price.pdf
  14. As others have said from built block to awd there is a bit to do. If you have loads of money Rips In Rotorua will build you whatever you want to the HP level you require! http://www.ripsracing.com/rips-services.html
  15. See the preceding posts for ideas on turbos. The problem with ecus is the auto so you have really to piggyback something on to the stock ecu. The Greddy E-manage is relatively cheap, anyone should be able to tune it and you may be able to find an adapter loom for it. The HKS F-Con is a better unit but it is more expensive and few tuners have the software to tune it - looms are available if hard to find. Then you can put anything else on you like - Link, Adaptronic? (ref the previous post) etc but that is a more expensive option and will probably have to be hand grafted into the loom.
  16. The amount of offset is irrelevant. The act of moving the wheel (and tyre) out from the original, stock position changes the geometry and while it may be done mainly for appearance it also has the effect of increasing the track. Whether this is achieved by wheels with a different offset or with spacers the result is exactly the same. In my experience this change has no bad effect on steering or handling. In Ted's case he reports an improvement in that he has reduced understeer. Yes a little negative camber (1 to 1.5 deg for the street or rather more... 3 deg for the track) will help. More castor (6 -7 deg ) will help with straight line stability particularly at speed. You will need adjustable castor arms to achieve the latter but you can achieve a small increase in negative camber with adjustable bushes. In either case you will then have to correct toe-in.
  17. Dunno but a quick search reveals this advice on gasket choice: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/354531-rb26dett-exhaust-gaskets/ and the other piece of advice is that you a likely to break some studs and if so you should replace the lot with genuine Nissan ones. And have a look through this section - what you need to know may be in the how to change turbo or something like that:http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/forum/57-tutorials-diy-faq/
  18. Sorry its dark now. The pic below won't help much as its side on with my trial wheels which are the same size and offset as my new ones. I'll try to take a pic tomorrow to show the fit of my Rays. Just found a couple of end on views - these are my last set of wheels but the fitment is exactly the same as my new ones:
  19. Put back to stock ...no more him.
  20. I doubt its the spacers as I have 25mm rear and 27mm front bolt ons (and my car is legal/certed). The reason I have spacers is that my Ce28Ns cost $1800 a set.. To get the right offset I would have to order them from Japan at about $4000 so spacers are the answer for me. As for steering geometry the effect of spacers is exactly the same as getting the "right" offset with no spacers. Cheap Chinese tyres will definitely not help. I never skimp on tyres. I am currently trying some new Nitto Invos and they seem fine so far.
  21. Sell the RB26 head and bolt a Neo head on.
  22. Maxima is a nice comfortable car - towed a car trailer with my Stagea on it for 300km no problems. What to look for with an high mileage one - check operation of auto trans.
  23. Not keen on the sump to oil cap line. Interested to see how it works!
  24. Shouldn't be too expensive to get a shop to weld an elbow on to your compressor - I have one on mine (for different reasons).
  25. The way I see it the MC stopper and braided brake lines ( I have both) are of most use in an emergency stop. On the track they change slightly how much pedal and pressure you have to apply until you get to lock-up but in an emergency stop on the road my theory is that they might pull you up that meter or two earlier that might make all the difference.
×
×
  • Create New...