KiwiRS4T

Can't think of any reason to pay the extra for a 26 head. neo has VCT!!!

There's a big long thread on the Hybrid manifolds in here. They are made in NZ. People generally consider them value for the price - sometimes need "adjustments" such as refacing to ensure a good fit. Your alternatives include putting the wastgate on the turbo housing or welding on to the existing manifold. Personally I have paid the extra for a Sinco Customs manifold (similar quality and price to 6 Boost).

You can get IDs for less but I'll just get my next set of injectors off Scotty.

Do a compression test - you may have broken rings on 1 and 2 - you would be amazed at how well an RB25DET can go on four cylinders! And try a known good CAS to see if that makes a difference (you can often tell a dud CAS by trying to spin it when it is off the car).

When I needed repairs my local Bilstein agent had the parts in stock. Maybe phone them first to see if they keep parts or have to order them in (or I can give you details of my shop in Auckland). PS don't forget the custom valving. SK is still contactable...for info - don't know if he still has access to parts.

Nismo 740s are 16600-RR544 Looks like you might have "Jecs" injectors which are OEM or copied Jecs injectors remanufactured to different flow rates. These have a poor reputation so will be interesting to see how they bear up in testing (and in tuning).

I put a BM57 in my Stagea and kept the stock booster with no problms.

Its all in my sig at the bottom of the page - Link G4

Tim is wrong. On a GTR (or I guess any awd RB) you can fill the transfer case via the shifter hole but you should probably locate and remove the filler plug on the side of the transfer case as well so that you can tell when it is full.

Not so simple as the Neo auto control is quite different. Much easier to convert to manual then you can use any ecu you like ( as I have done). Or get a Greddy E-Manage - that's just one piggy back.

Did you get an ecu with the DET? Your n/a ecu will not work for the DET. And you have to find a way to stop your front wheels falling off. I don't think there is an easy solution. Do you know if the DET has been rebored? You could maybe pull out the DE and rebuild it with parts from the DET. You might also need a new loom as well as an auto DET ecu and if the DET already has the turbo, bov etc you would just need an intercooler (and maybe some better brakes).

I don't know of any tuners or engine builders here who have an engine dyno - the only ones I have seen are in a Polytech and one in a place doing research on fuels - which is not to say that there aren't some somewhere. I have seen a video of an Aussie speed shop somewhere that has one.

I did it on my S1 when it was an auto because you need the stock ecu (which is internally like an R33 ecu) to run the auto. Didn't realize OP had an S2 which has a different ecu and will accept a Nistune chip. People usually use an E-Manage or an HKS F-Con if they have a tuner available. You could use a Link but my tuner had the R32 ecu lying around. Obviously the ideal option for an S1 Stagea is a manual conversion which I did a year later.

You most likely have stock pistons. if they are domed they are n/a or dished = turbo. If you want to confirm just measure the bores to see if they are still standard.

Just checking - was the spark plug on No 3 all there when you pulled it out? No bits fallen into the bore?

I just know from experience that it does. Same sensors for Atessa as for ABS.

Checked brake fluid level?

and painted black like this?

I ran a split dump from Redline: http://www.redlineperformance.co.nz/products/exhaust/front-dump-pipes/nissan/nissan-skyline-rb20-25det-front-exhaust-pipe/ although people will tell you to buy a bellmouth. Maybe the Just Jap ones are no good but I had no problems with the Redline one. Now I have a custom set-up from Sinco Customs in Hamilon for my RB30.

Oil control problems - normally only on the track or dyno - are not fictional although the causes are not always well understood. The number of RB powered cars I have seen pull up at the track with zero oil pressure is not funny (luckily hasn't happened to me). The other fairly common oil problem is excessive amounts of oil coming out of the top of the engine through the breathers or elsewhere ( took me two years to fix this). The 57 page oil control thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/?&hl=sk+oil+control has canvassed all these issues rather thoroughly and come up with solutions that have been proven to work. I don't know how the big power Japanese engines are built but I do see efficient breather systems with often more than one catch can and or air/oil separator featured on them usually fed into the turbo intake which will have some scavenging effect. Also I imagine some of the long distance cars will have dry sump set ups which is of course the ultimate fix.

Needs something like an R32 ecu nistuned and piggy backed on to the stock ecu as you can't Nistune the S1 auto stagea ecu.

I am running a wastegate off my turbo housing and so do many people. Much cheaper than getting a new manifold (in your case - in mine I have a new manifold as well). Welds that are done properly by competent welders will not crack.

I have bought ecu talk from Australia and found them to work fine. Don't know if they work on M35 but here is the site: http://www.ecutalk.com/

Almost there - FAQ #71