KiwiRS4T

You shouldn't use camber to get your wheels inside the gaurds. I ran 3 deg for the track which was great but it chewed out my road tyres in no time and I couldn't be bothered changing back and forth so I have settled for 1 1/2 deg neg camber which seems tolerable on the road.

Best PM Toshi directly

Apart from checking earths the only other suggestion I have heard is to check the soldered connections on the back of the cluster and either generally wave a heat gun over it or using a very small soldering iron redo the connections.

These guys do one (no idea of price) http://www.ag-y.com/ or try emailing Dodsons: [email protected] You need to specify which GTR transfer case you have as they are not all the same.

Probably off a Cefiro or suchlike - not an upgrade.

Get a panel beater to extend the guards. Offset should be different front and rear as the track is different.

Yes you can buy a used one or a PFC... or a plug in Link or Vipec will go in the case inhabited by your Mines chipped ecu.

If you are going for a Neo head look for a DET. Neo heads have 236deg inlet and 232 exhaust but the DE has 6.9mm lift and the DET 8.4mm Neo head has solid lifters. My engine with low compression and stock bottom end apart from rings bearings and conrod bolts has being going for about three years and makes 314AWKW limited to 7000 rev/min although you wouldn't lose anything on the street by limiting it to 6,500 (the extra 500 revs is sometimes handy for delaying gear changes on the track).

My gauges routinely play up - all go to 0 or max. A coupe of times I have disconnected the battery and reconnected - other times they have just come right next time I start the car. Hopefully your will come right.

You need to understand the side effects of stretched tyres. It is not a fashion crime. They are illegal for safety reasons. There are two main issues - under cornering or after hitting a pot hole or manhole cover the tyre can fall into the well and deflate suddenly. Secondly the tyre walls are meant to be perpendicular and have very little strength when angled. When young drivers (or older ones) lose control of their modified cars and kill their passengers or innocent third parties stretched tyres can be a contributing factor along with poorly thought out suspension modifications or the abuse of drugs or alcohol. I have aftermarket wheels. I used to have 17 x 9 wheels with 255 40 17 tyres. I now run 18 x 8 wheels with 245 40 18 tyres. The combination of offset and spacers mean they sit flush with my (rolled) guards and look fine in my opinion.

You need 275 or 285 tyres and some bigger guards. Would have been wiser to do the research before buying the wheels.

What do you know about the history of the block? If you don't know for sure just bite the bullet and pull it apart, measure and replace as necessary (rings and bearings or whatever is necessary for your more than 400Kw goals).

In general the oval mufflers will be quieter than the cylindrical ones but check the interiors - a lot of big brand name Japanese mufflers I looked actually reduced to 2 1/2 in at some point although they had 3in inlet and 4in outlets.

Why go to the trouble of getting awd if you're going to put stretched tyres on it? If you don't care if the car stays on the road or not you may as well get 2wd and then you can do donuts as well!

You are after something like this: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/suspension/auction-705157498.htm I use Google for most things as the answers more often than not come from this website e.g. https://www.google.co.nz/#q=how+to+fit+lowering+springs+on+a+Stagea but there is a Stagea specific DIY section at the top of this page and also a general DIY section here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/forum/57-tutorials-diy-faq/

If you have any slack in the hose cut the end off to lose the worn part.

What's the new one Hugh - a VK56?

My system is 3in all the way with a resonator in the middle and a cannon on the back - no drone. My 100 cell 5in Venom is welded in to the front pipe. You can cut the cat to achieve 3 1/2 in size and go 3and 1/2 in all the way to future proof the system (although 3in will do for your current goals).

Broke ring lands on my Rb25DET as well. Currently running old pistons with new rings and bearings (and conrod bolts) on my RB30 seems plenty of people manage 340kw with stock pistons. Still I would go for forged pistons if you can afford them - how is "cold start slap " a problem? Put it together right, fully balanced and don't thrash it when it is cold.

Well done!

There seems to be plenty of non- forged pistons around e.g. here's a set but you probably want non turbo for the right CR: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HYPATEC-PISTON-SET-OF-6-HOLDEN-COMMODORE-VL-RB30-TURBO-RB30ET-/180869720350 Personally if I were going to rebore I would get forged - rods and crank should be OK.

Def give the race pads a go. I had some grey pads of unknown origin that lasted less than one track day. Now have a set of Pagid RS which have gone through a full day at the track and are fine for road use as well but they were $550

If you turn the awd lock button on you will get 50/50 front and rear at low speeds but if you don't have huge knobbly tires you will just get 4 wheels spinning! And if it were my car it would soon be sitting on the sills...

What? Who is putting oil into the turbo intake? Oil drains back down one of the two breathers and catch can should be designed to capture oil from the fumes - if not you need a second catch can or air oil separator before the turbo intake. Why would you vent the catch can back to the sump? That would be a closed loop.

Yep took my car for a tune (never though I had a boost leak)and the tuner put his rig on the pipes and at just 10 - 12 psi there was a leak from the HKS bov. It has the round mount held by a circlip and was lifting so packed it out replaced the circlip and tested ok at 30psi.