KiwiRS4T

If you Google you will find lengthy descriptions of knock offs and their shortcomings - some with pics

The problem is they will not be tunable in Aus so all a dyno will do is tell you whether it is better or worse than your stock one for your car.

Hi let's see some pics! Squealing belts are normally just loose or possibly worn. There are a number of people supplying replacements for the dash lights in a number of colours as well as white. The brightness is not otherwise adjustable.

I'm making 312awkw at 90% max duty with 550 injectors on 98 petrol so unless you are planning on going way over 300 you should be ok with e85

I run the 8 pot 330mm version on my Stagea (1800kg 310awkw) and they have never let me down on the track. They are probably a bit OTT for the street (unless you tow heavy loads) and I found GTT brakes were enough on the road but for trackwork they are great - especially with the right pads.

A battery shop should be able to test your alternator output and if that is ok get a new battery. Actually ideally they can test your starter draw as well and if that is excessive your starter motor is on the way out.

^^^what he said. GTR wheels will fit and so will most Rays and Work wheels. Others you will have to try to borrow some to try before you buy.

With that front bar and intercooler are you sure there aren't already some mods? Have you had a look at the ecu?

Good stuff - you should easily make 300kw with the right tune. Why are you not sticking with the Nismo clutch? Don't sweat too long over the Link/Vipec choice - they are the same ecu. Maybe be guided by the agency held by the tuner and let him supply install and tune it.

Good to hear!

No idea about that ecu but you don't want to be choosing a tuner on price ($800 for installation and initial tune sounds cheap to me BTW).

Changing the thermostat will make no difference whatsoever to track temps!

What town are you in? I could suggest two or three shops that could do the work for you as well as one that may be able to tune your stock ecu.

Not sure how you come to have so much negative camber with stock suspension. .. its great with slicks on the track but it will make a mess of your 265s on the street. You won't correct that much with bushes you will need camber arms.

Thanks - I am happy with the look - was looking for forged lightweight etc but will stick with these for now. Yep I quite like the look so I'll keep them for the time being. Don't feel like changing my cradle now as I have a GTR diff and axles now and the GT wheels will be fine. This is what the GT-7s looked like - probably too flash for an old git like me:

I bought Cusco items for both. The Cusco upper (neg) camber arms are cheaper than the Ikeya items and perfectly satisfactory. I like the Ikeya tension arms because you can specify bush type rather than pillowball (although they are very expensive)

Where is the smoke coming from? If its coming out the tail pipe then its the opposite of blowby - oil getting past the rings and there's not much you can do about it short of new rings! You could check by doing a leak-down test to se if its your valve seals.

Got silver/grey ones. Nice looking but my attempt at staggered fitment failed - they were 8in and 9in so I got some 18 35 275 rear tyres and 18 40 245 front which were the same rolling circumference but there is no way I can get 275 on the back so will have to sell the GT7s and look for a set of 4 x 8in or 8.5 or 9in. Currently looking at a couple: CE28N http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=694240134 or GT-N http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=694483007

I thought all RB starter motors were the same! But yep take your old one along to check.

I know I have a wagon and you don't but it is AWD and the weights and suspension are not that different so I'll give you my figures as a concrete goal. You may want to change them to suit your car and use ... Castor L 6deg R 5.75 Camber 1.5 neg L & R Toe 1mm toe out L & R Rear camber 2 deg neg Toe zero L&R When you adjust front camber your toe will go miles out. You can adjust it roughly by eye and you can roughly measure your camber with a spirit level if your maths is not too bad. I don't know how you can measure castor except on the machine. Maybe you could look around for a better alignment operator as well!

I take it you have the plugin version. The wire in version is gruntier all round but I don't know if it has the number of inputs that you require. My installer puts in a 3 bar MAP sensor as a matter of course as the built in one is very limited as you say. Let us know how you get on with the black box!

I don't know how your castor arms work but I don't have to remove mine to adjust them. If you read my post sentence by sentence you will see that in my opinion (you are entitled to yours) there is a lot wrong with your alignment. Once it is right then if your car still pulls left you have damage somewhere.

If you want to fit pineapples here are instructions how to fit them for maximum traction (dragging): http://www.whiteline.com.au/instruction/203a_KCA349.pdf

I run 6 deg left and 5.75 right Castor. I have Cusco arms. You have a lot of negative camber c/w a small castor angle which would make the car very twitchy anyway. Your rear camber is getting up there too - is it set for slicks or because you can't fit your wheels in your guards? Also try setting the toe in to zero. If your rear toe in is still as far out as your details suggest (it doesn't show any corrected figures) then that won't help keeping you going straight either. If it is still pulling hard left you or someone is likely to have whacked a kerb or something and if you can't see any obvious damage you may consider getting it put on a chassis alignment rig at a panelbeaters.

The only person I know who can tune the stock ecu is Soichi here in Auckland. I doubt there is anyone in Australia. You will need a Greddy E-manage or HKS F-Con to piggyback onto your stock ecu.