KiwiRS4T

Good luck. Besides being able to weld you need some design skills. Both 6Boost and Sinco make custom manifolds but I guess doing it yourself will reduce costs (apart from many hours) to the point where you can try again if your first effort doesn't measure up.

I use a steel hammer and whack the sh*t out of them (copper hammer would be better but I don't have one). Squirt some CRC or WD40 on the studs. Make sure handbrake is right off. Check to see there are no retaining screws. Firstly I hit the centre near the studs inwards quite hard (the wrong way) to try to break the bond. Then tap around the outside while exerting outward pressure (the same way that you are tapping) with a lever of some sort (large screw driver or pinch bar) Work your way around and try to rotate the disc from time to time. Are you quite sure there are no threaded holes to wind a bolt in? We are talking about the outside face here not the inside.

Depends If it has an electronic sensor the cable can go through with the rest of the loom just behind the inner RH guard.

Pretty sure low compression will limit your power output. I would trade them for 9:1

Have you tried the search function or Google? Here is the guide (in the very first pinned thread in the RB30 section):http://stevenwelsh.site.net.au/RB30_DOHC.pdf and the third pinned thread in the RB30 guide is the RB30/26 guide. Then at the top of the forced induction section you can see results including what was done for RB30/25 and RB30/26

Here ya go (cheap at this price): http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=683239939

Most popular are E-Manage or F Con but others such as Link (and presumably Haltech)can be piggy-backed on to stock ecu.

They look very similar to my C34 mats so may fit S1 and S2 C34 Stageas. What are they worth? Stick them in the Stagea Parts Classified section (close this thread and you will see the link at the top of the page) with a price on them and someone will soon tell you if they are not the right price.

Race Technology Dash 2 is a UK made item. Nothing wrong with the Link unit apart from the price so I am happy with my discounted one. The Race Technology Dash is more suited for track cars and is already used with the Link in the NZ Supertourers.

This is the Link version of launch control: http://www.linkecu.com/support/glossary/launch-control-def I don't have it so I don't claim to be an expert on it. If you Google you will find a few variations on ways of achieving it. Hopefully someone who has a good launch control system will tell you about theirs!

Limiter bashing is just holding the engine at maximum revs against the rev limiter for extended periods - can result in oil pump failure>engine failure. Some of the more modern ecus have launch control as an option - just read their websites.

Ecutalk cables: http://www.ecutalk.com/interface.aspx

I have an R33 GTR box in my full weight Stagea with about 420awhp and it is going fine after about three years of being used as a daily and about 6 track days a year. I have a super strong (high clamping pressure) single plate clutch of unknown Japanese brand. If you rebuild your box there should be no inevitability about your breaking it and people are running standard boxes let alone those with OS gear sets with well over 500hp without breaking them.

This is with Work Emotions 18 x 9.5in (not mine) - would think 10.5 would need some serious guard work! http://images.trademe.co.nz/photoserver/full/298738927.jpg

Possibly but that dash will probably be at least $500 more!

Not sure - I am not particularly computer literate and I don't have a lap top or a tablet and Link Display just plugs in and away you go. It has mounting facility on the back and I plan to use it to reduce the number of gauges I have ( as well as for logging afrs and injector flows etc). Will put up a few pics when I have time.

I haven't seen anything here about the Link Display unit. I have just bought one and will give a little report when I have had a chance to have a play with it but I just want to give a heads up for anyone considering buying one that they can be had at a good price here: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/electronics/auction-682850494.htm Link do not approve of their dealers discounting but I think this is a dealer unloading some excess stock. I paid NZ$720 for mine (they are usually over $1000) and there are 2 or three more for sale. They will fit Link or Vipec ecus. http://www.linkecu.com/products/TuningTools/DisplayLink manual: http://www.linkecu.com/support/documentation/displaylink-documentation/DisplayLinkManual

Just using the RB25 throttle body and TPS with my Greddy copy.

Dunno but I bought a new N1 pump for about $400.

No I already told you in one of your many threads that PFR5G is the listed spark plug for the RB25DET. You only need to start going colder when power is significantly in excess of stock. The plugs you have should be fine.

Airbag and seatbelts saved my life when I wrote off my 2nd Stagea. But if bling is more important to you go for it.

Not quite sure what you're getting at here. I don't see any link in your posts. Yes I know the difference between narrowband and wideband sensors. I thought we had moved on to knock sensors.

This is the knock sensor that Link lists - it should work with the Haltech although I am not familiar with the Haltech and don't know if it reacts automatically to the knock info or whether it is just used by the tuner. http://www.linkecu.com/products/InstallationAccessories/Sensors/knocksensor

I have a Sinco manifold - I am sure it is of at least equal quality to a 6 boost but it is not a cheap option. There's a link in my sig if you want to check out his work.

If you are asking do you need the TPS the answer is yes you do. If you search you can find the common faults.