KiwiRS4T

Don't know about the Haltech but my Link computer doesn't use the O2 sensor. If your Haltech does then by all means get a new one (or two) if its still using the original ones.

I have seen at least one (maybe two) reports of failed front diffs so 1. it's not very common but 2. it does happen. If I had the money I would get a Quaife front diff - those who have done it seem really happy with the improvements.

There are three settings - off, on and door controlled. Don't forget that when controlled by the doors the light will stay on after you close the door until you get the key in the ignition

The correct plugs are PFR5G-11S (platinum) -assuming the engine is pretty stock. The copper version would be BCPR5- but there are probably some variations which would work ok.

Rather depends on why you are rebuilding it. What was the reason you pulled it down? Have you inspected the pistons. bores and bearings?

To what end are you upgrading the brakes? Is it a track car? Stock brakes with better pads, brake fluid, a mastercylinder stopper and braided brake lines will work well.

I am sure you are not planning to spend maybe $2k + just to get rid of your afm which will give you no performance gains at all. So you need to weigh up the expense of putting in a bigger turbo, injectors etc and then trailering your car to a tuner or getting a workshop that can install the mods and the ecu and tune it. In either case you need to choose a tuner and find out what they can install and tune. Since it appears you haven't bought the car yet it would seem a lot easier to find one with the ecu already installed.

My 550 Deatschwerks are handling 314AWKW at 90% max duty so I figure that even on E85 ID1000s should give you plenty of margin with some room for increased power but if you have the money and the desire to go bigger then why not. The Walbro might outflow the 044s at 40 psi but what boost are you running? What are the flow comparisons at 65psi? ...Hmm did a little Googling and it would seem the answer is about 330 lph and some suggest it is good for about 550hp so should do you ok for now.

Not really an out of this world number. Don't worry about what the engine builder was thinking just concentrate on getting a good tune.

I just drilled and tapped into the compressor housing.

Make your own! NZ Performance Car P94 - Guys bought an Airwolf 3D XL 3D printer and produced a 3 gauge pod, PS pump bracket, PS reservoir bracket, circuit breaker box etc etc! (This is for their VH45DE powered Silvia).

Only just read your post as font was so tiny! Oil restrictors are the bottom line basis for any oil control system. They are designed to reduce the chance of your emptying the sump of oil.

Here's an example: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=585599046

Probably. Just pull the plug out to see. The light should come on on the dash. then follow the procedure. If its the right one then just insert a switch in the circuit.

See below. I solved this problem by changing back to IE10 from IE11

Yes the rolling circumference has to be the same for the Attessa. Have you checked to see if the 10.5in rears will even fit? Best idea would be to get 9.5 all round with 255 or 265 all round (minimum 245 max 275). Apart from excessively stretched tyres being illegal and dangerous different stretch front and rear will give different heights and rolling circumferences.

Depends on how much work you do /have done. You can ring up and get the price of rings and bearings and gaskets. Add to that any machining - presumably you are going to strip the block and get it cleaned as a minimum.

There are guidelines but they don't mean much. The AA lists the 3.0L Maxima (of course it doesn't have a listing for the Stagea) as 500kg unbraked and 1200kg braked but there appears to be no enforcement. People pull huge boats and caravans with impunity. The tow bar on my Stagea has a plate saying 1200kg braked but I have towed a two axle car trailer with only over-run brakes carrying an 1800kg car so over 2 tonnes.

Thanks for sharing not just what you are doing but why and how. Great stuff.

Worn components would be the first thing to check for. Excessive (or any) toe out will cause that feeling. A heavier sway bar will help a lot.

I notice the latest GTR still has it! Decide for yourself. Do some laps with it on and some with it off. To get full advantage you probably need a good LSD in the front as well (Quaife?!) and possibly a controller to tune the front rear distribution. Don't plan on getting rid of mine any time soon.

Car looking good. Needs an RB30! I have a GT3540R with a .63AR exhaust for quick pickup (weighs in at 1800kg with driver). Haven't been able to get to the drags yet -hopefully these holidays. Currently at 314AWKW - here is the boost curve:

Not so. I have clear evidence that my catch can is filling up and draining. Anyway its quite impractical to run a drain round to the exhaust side.

Actually if you Google there is a lot of reading on sleeving RBs with generic sleeves or OS Giken or Apexi . Grout filling of RB30s in is common and there are a coupe of threads on doing it in RB26s as well so I guess you just need to price some sleeves, the machining and decide whether its a better road than a new N1 block. There is a variety of cylinder wall coatings you can do as well so there is plenty of choice. If you want real world experience check out Rips big power engines. I don't think he's into sleeving but he certainly uses grout. But as above if you are destroying engines I would think assembly and tuning play a bigger part. At what KW and revs are your engines breaking?

You've already asked this question in your other thread. There is no definitive answer. People run 300kw on unopened motors for years. Yours could go bang after 2 days. As I said before if you are going to sell it just repair and reassemble, strip off the expensive parts and sell the lot. If you are going to keep it do it properly - measure the bores and see if it needs a rebore or just new rings and bearings and get some decent rod bolts and balance etc. Swap the 3540 for something more suitable. What is a good power level for the street is entirely subjective - 260kw will be pretty quick but for some 400 is not enough.