KiwiRS4T

I have spent so much money over the last few years trying to get my exhaust right I could have easily paid for a quality custom made 3.5in system. What I have now is a full 3.0in system with a Venom 5in 100 cell cat a mid resonator and a cannon all of which are legal (in that I have an LVV cert for all my modifications although I am not sure the cat would pass a more stringent test). I know you don't want a cannon but here is a mid resonator (quality ain't cheap): http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/exhaust/auction-708667850.htm they also do a big range of mufflers including oval ones: http://www.adrenalinr.com/productdetail.php?productID=574

Why are you getting Sard 800 injectors? They won't help your economy. Are you going for 500KW?

Solenoid can be wired either way round makes no difference. Do you have it plumbed as per Guilt Toy's diagram?

That's why I am still looking for an R34 GTR non v spec diff (3.545) not just for the fuel economy but more for more restful cruising at 110km/hr

There is no correct offset for 18 x 10 unless you do some guard work and what are you going to do if they are wrong?

http://www.webbersrbguide.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&id=50&Itemid=29

The difference "could" be down to the different dynos. Does your car feel slower? Strange because Unigroup seems to have a very good reputation (although anyone can have an off day). Maybe your second hand PFC is defective? Did you measure the back pressure? I did a rough measure on mine by making a fitting to go in the O2 sensor hole connected to my boost gauge (not running an O2 sensor).

Can't think of a reason not to run VCT. People spend loads of time and money trying to install it on an RB26 why would you delete it when you already have it?

Most recommended as far as my reading goes is the Venom 100cell metal 5in which I have. But you will definitely get better flow with a decat look alike if you are prepared to take the risk. I am making 314 AWKW with a GT3540 and a three inch exhaust right through. Are you sure your muffler doesn't step down to 2.5in as a lot of big brand Jap ones do? Can you get comparative flow numbers for the Loboka (never heard of it TBH) and the Venom?

New coil looms: http://www.performance-wise.com/

Try to get the Stagea ECU and loom will make life easier.

Deatschwerks are generally reconditioned and matched Jecs etc. The 600cc should get you to your goal ok. The IDs are just matched Bosch injectors so may be worth getting a price from Scott for some 1000s or 1200s. Not sure if they are a bolt into the Neo or if you will need a new rail for them.

Any quality synthetic atf will do - the Nissan stuff is an arm and a leg.

That's way over the top. I get 12 - 15 l/100km from my RB30 turbo. You should be getting around 12. On the other hand it is a heavy car and if you keep your foot flat like any car you can get poor mileage. Replace the O2 sensor (don't think it will make a huge difference) and have a look at the plugs. Jack the wheels up and make sure no brakes are binding. Put a timing light on it (put a short lead between the coil and no 1 plug). Make sure you are measuring the consumption properly (use the trip recorder of which there are two for some reason and calculate when you fill up again).

They are the older type and unlike the new ID range which work well at low duty cycles the older type can idle. poorly etc . How much power do you plan to make? I have 550 Deatschwerks in my car currently at 314AWKW. (418hp) Rough rule of thumb is 850cc = 850hp gross and 1000cc = 1000hp gross (on petrol)

If you search the catalogues it seems you can get the 4 bolt exhaust in the .82 in a choice of 2.5 or 3in.

If you have a manual life is easier but if you have an auto an R34 ecu won't do in a S1

A much heavier rear sway bar helps with the wagons!

Like this:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xz1ic-w_gsU

Put a flange or whatever its called on the end of the pipes or some people just dot with a welder. There is a special (swaging?)tool if you can borrow one.

I have the .63 housing on my GT3540R with the 3in V band. The outlet from the exhaust does expand up to the v band (can't measure it exactly now its installed) as you can see in this pic:

I have heard that story too but I don't know anyone who has done it. You are looking for an ECU from an auto Z32 but it is far from a simple job and as I say I am not even sure that it will work. You could try emailing Nistune as I am sure they would know about it if anyone has done it.

Probably a bit early into your ownership but would be an ideal time to get a Neo motor c/w ecu and loom and a GTR box! But for minimum $$ pull your engine out and see what it needs to fix it or if you are in a hurry find another S1 Stagea motor.

There is a write-up in the DIY section but sadly the pics are lost: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/183421-led-installation-diy-tutorial/

SAFCs can work on Nissans (I ran one for a while together with an SITC to address the timing) but since they are limited in what they can do you will not get your money's worth out of a highflowed turbo. Ideally you want a better ecu but if you have an S1 auto you are really limited to a Greddy E-manage or HKS F-con (make sure you have someone who can tune them within range).