KiwiRS4T

What do you mean by fuel surge? Are you losing power? I have a surge tank as it happens but never suffered from " fuel surge " before I installed it (or after). A surge tank is only necessary when you are tracking it with a near empty tank. I would say you have another problem. Changed your fuel filter lately or perhaps your pump is on the way out?! Having said that your pickup is on the rhs so it is logical that the pickup is more likely to be exposed when turning right. Maybe your pump has not been installed correctly and the arm with the sock is not flat on the floor of the tank.

Don't know Dave but at least the GTR one says its for awd and rwd front suspension components are often different. I haven't done a front wheel bearing on my car but on other cars I have just removed the bearing and gone to a bearing shop where they measure the ID the OD and the width and supply a generic bearing set c/w seal.

Most pumps produce more than enough flow. You would be buying the Tomei for its longevity and ability to be adjusted from outside.

As above - pull the cambelt cover off and check the cambelt and timing

You are talking about a 13 -15 year old car that was never sold outside of Japan - no chance!

C34 is a plastic type material - should be able to use soapy water etc no problem if you take them out of the car.

$55 one sold - one left @$45 posted.

Will do free postage to anywhere in Australia

Not quite the same issue with E10 but tuners here have said not to use it because the vendors (Gull) say "up to" 10% ethanol and the variation is too much for an optimum tune.

Sorry for the obvious question but do you have a tunable ecu if so what kind?

I don't know how old this documentary is but if you haven't seen it before its well worth a look. I know its not a Stagea but I'm sure most of us would like one if we had the spare cash: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pxUCILsTv5s

I have a copy but don't know how to send such a big file. If you scroll up a few posts it seems Duncan may have the means to do so.

So did you get 4 fronts or 4 rears? What is the offset?

My rear bar is 24mm so if the Nismo one is solid it should be near enough.

I have a pair of RB26DETT Bovs - great upgrade for RB25 - more robust construction - bolts straight on to existing flange - just needs an adaptor for the outlet hose as GTR is bigger. Some surface rust on one of them (if you know where they are mounted on the GTR you will know why) but both are in good working cond (money back guarantee on everything I sell). The better looking one $55 - the other $$45 (should clean up ok). Please PM me if interested.

I have a pair of RB26DETT Bovs - great upgrade for RB25 - more robust construction - bolts straight on to existing flange - just needs an adaptor for the outlet hose as GTR is bigger. Some surface rust on one of them (if you know where they are mounted on the GTR you will know why) but both are in good working cond (money back guarantee on everything I sell). The better looking one $55 - the other $$45 (should clean up ok). Please PM me if interested.

Second hand centre out of mechanical LSD e.g. GTR

No - in general when they are LSD they are viscous (=useless)

Please learn how to turn your photo round the right way!! Otherwise its literally a pain in the neck.

Running in as per Piggaz's post above has been the correct procedure for at least the last 30 - 40 years (on dyno or road) - anyone telling you to take it "softly" is way out of touch.

I have 2 x 1.omm restrictors in mine.

In most places venting your catch can to atmosphere is illegal. If you have a decent sized catch can(minimum 2L) which is properly baffled then it is safe to run it back into the turbo intake (as I do).

I am using an RB25 head gasket. Run it in on the dyno - no softly softly stuff (assuming tuner will not thrash it to death). Then dump oil and refill and drive normally watching oil pressure and temps and checking for leaks.

I have fixed the spewing oil everywhere problem on my RB30/25 and based on my experience this is what I would do on an RB26: Fit 1.0mm oil restrictor. Drill out oil returns to 10mm and relieve all oil returns. Fit Mines baffle kits to cam covers. Install 2 fittings to sump as high as possible run one hose to the top (this is a pressure relief - may also blow some oil) of an at least 2L catch can and the other to the bottom (as a drain). Also vent your cam covers to this catch can (should be very little comes out of them). Then instead of a filter on top of the catch can run a pipe to either another catch can or an oil/air separator and what comes out of that should be fine to pipe into the turbo intake - or if you prefer to a couple of LARGE airfilters. This should deal to your problems (don't bother with fitting on back of head). The second catch can will need to be emptied but not very often. Also (not directly related) minimum baffle kit for sump - better large capacity sump - better still accusump.

In my S1 Stagea its a very small black plug taped to loom, with a single yellow wire with a green trace going to the plug and a single black wire going to the socket behind the driver's side kick panel. Have you filled up the reservoir and bled the system? (Bleed nipple at the back of the transfer case and another above the diff)