KiwiRS4T

Drop the whole exhaust first to see if that is the problem.

Try disconnecting thje battery and reconnecting it - may just need to reset the ecu(s)

My Stagea is at 8 f 7 rear and a little too stiff for the street.

If you can find the headlamps c/w transformer or whatever you will be ok - the kits that go in the stock headlamp are illegal because they do not suit the reflectors and can dazzle oncoming traffic.

Its not recommended to run the head drain into the turbo drain although its an engine out job to put a new drain in the sump (full explanation somewhere in this 40 page thread! http://www.skylinesa..._sk+oil+control but yes you could try running the drain into a pot of some sort - but with no breather in the sump oil may well be pushed out of that drain - would be interesting to see. The breathers I have are on the opposite side of the sump from the turbo drain just in front of the driveshaft and (necessarily!!) as high as possible in the sump and above the oil level. A lot of people still don't put small enough restrictors in with a high output oil pump on an RB30. It won't be a problem on the street but will be on the dyno or track.

Yes its been done (probably Google to find examples) - over complication in my view - may as well go to dry sump!

What do you need? Here's a pic of the back of the cluster:

This any good to anyone? http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/other/auction-452247480.htm

No money atm but as a matter of interest how much for the Quaife? Do people put 1.5 ways in the front? I thought 1 way only?

I am currently evaluating progress and waiting for my next track day to decide on a permanent set up but I have two catch cans at present. The two breathers from the sump go into one catch can which is vented to atmos atm. The pvc hole is blocked off. The two breathers on the cam covers go to another catch can which is also vented to atmos. There is no oil going into the catch can from the cam covers now (as opposed to heaps before). There was one episode where oil went into the other catch can from the sump breathers but that could be because I overfilled it by a couple of litres (not as bad as it sounds because there is a 10mm adapter plate between the RB30 and my awd sump). I think the combination of smaller restrictors and the vents on the sump have done the trick. There is quite a bit of pressure built up in the sump and part of the theory is that this impedes the flow of oil back to the sump so it goes out the top instead. If there is no more oil as such coming out when at the track I would be keen to fit a proper oil/air seperator or a properly baffled "catch can" and then have the catch can vented to an inlet somewhere so that the is some suction applied to the sump and also nothing going to atmosphere. Actually its going on the dyno on Friday so this will probably be a good test as last time it also spewed out oil everywhere after a few seconds high speed running under load. Have you got a drain from the head to the sump? Does it run to a new fitting? As an experiment try disconnecting the drain from the sump and putting it into a temporary container (to see how much if any oil comes out that way) and fitting a breather hose to the inlet/outlet in the sump and running that up to a catch can if you have a spare or just poke it into any vented or open container and see what happens. Have you got restrictors in the oil supply to the head?

Consider getting a new pump. It may be on the way out and a more grunty new pump isn't too expensive.

How many km? Why not do rings and bearings while its out?

Bad fuel? CAS drive damaged? Harmonic balancer loose on crank?

How much power to spin up all four? I have an awd Stagea with GTR gearbox and diffs and want to try for a 1/4 mile time (never been) - I will have somewhere between 300 - 350 awkw and I fear that just dropping the clutch at max revs the 255s won't spin but something will go bang!

You can get a holder for the boost gauge and put it somehwere else.

Better to get a 33 auto - people here just dump them when they do a manual conversion as there is no market for them - I am sure you will be able to pick one up cheaply and save yourself a lot of headaches.

Somewhere in excess of $1000. You will need to get the right Z32 ecu, install the Nistune chip and get a tune. Have a look at the website first. http://www.nistune.com/

Its taken me a while to get what you're saying but I don't think (hope not) that the OP is planning to plumb the bov back into the hot intercooler pipe but into the turbo intake on that side of the engine!

As per SKs tutorial you can use the two top bolts from the cam cover with a couple of washers.

Just had this debate. I reckon nearer the turbo rather than nearer the throttle body but where ever it is I suspect makes very little difference. Some people have it on the hot side some on the cold side some manufacturers stick it on the intercooler so what ever suits your needs or tastes will be fine.

You'll need a puller for the harmonic balancer. Even if you buy a super duper twice as expensive belt its still going to be changed at 100,000km anyway. There's a full how to in the DIY sticky at the top: http://www.skylinesa...y-new-cam-belt/

Well the flappy paddle on my Sterling is pull up to change up and push down to change down but I guess its up to the preference of the owner!

You could get another 100,000 or more. People have been running 300kw for years. A good tune and regular maintainence are the key (and a smidgen of luck).

Wait until you track it and see if it blows oil as well. I think I have solved the problem not with a drain to the sump but with a sump breather. I installed two 1/2 in outlets from the sump - the intention was one for a breather and the other for an oil return but in fact they are both function as breathers at the moment. Very little oil comes out (and what does could be attributed to the fact that it is well overfilled) but a fair amount of air comes out - not necessarily blow by but possibly pressure created by the crank.

How much boost are you planning o run? Built in map sensor may be too low for many applications and you may need another map sensor 3 bar at least .