KiwiRS4T

If the DE is from an awd its doable. If its not it would be quicker and cheaper to hire a car while you do your engine. If you line up a machinist and all the parts you should be able to pull it out one weekend and put it back the next. Or use the DE to build an RB30 - you will need an adapter plate and an awd sump. It would be competetive cost wise and you could take your time.

Maybe the buzzer is telling you the handbrake isn't working! Have you tried to get diagnostic codes from the ecu (paperclip and engine light)?

Dropped the rear a tad more. Happy to find I could move the circlip on the Bilsteins without removing the shocks but simply jacking up the collar. Also pushed the guards out a bit more. I used to think the "baseball bat is your friend" was a joke but I found I could do more with a bit of steel pipe in 15 minutes than an hour of stuffing round with a guard roller!

Should def all be 1.25!!

If you search using the term "neo" you will find a lot more info. You will need to check if the manifolds for R33 suit the neo - stock throttle body will be fine. You will need to be very carefull with forged piston selection as a few people have ended up with sky high compression ratios through wrong pistons for the neo. Make sure you get top feed injectors (you don't need a new rail or fpr) and you only need one adjustable cam gear (inlet has variable cam timing). Double and triple check that you get the right poncams for the neo head. I would forget the Z32afm and get a Link/Vipec ecu (which uses a map sensor) and that would do boost control as well. However if you can find a suitable PFC then that will work with the Z32 or maybe Q45 afm and with your ebc. Think about getting a more grunty intank fuel pump. And if you still have the sidemount you will need a fmic suitable for 350 + kw. 38mm w/g may or may not be big enough - have a trawl through the RB25 turbo upgrade thread. With all those mods (good idea to do them all at once if you can afford it) you won't be able to drive your car to the tuner - you'll have to tow or trailer it.

Not clear what you want to acheive. You want a noisy bov You want it plumbed in because of the cops? The only police objection is the noise - a bov vents only air so its not an emissions issue. What is important? Personally I like my bov to be completely silent.

Rubbish. Stretching doesn't stiffen sidewalls. It detracts from roadholding which enables drifters to loose grip (slide) with less power.

Same drive shaft. My m/c is a BM57 either 33GTR or Z32 TT

Nistune is not a big company its a small group of hard working people. By all means contact them yourself - have a read of their website http://www.nistune.com/faq.php You need to start looking for a Greddy E-Manage (or an HKS F-Con although tuners for them are few and far between).

Note OP has an auto. Does the R33 have the auto ecu in the main ecu like the S1 stagea? In which case the R32 or Z32 ecu +Nistune will not work? Looks like a job for an E-manage!

Wouldn't be caused by unbraided lines - was there a difference in rotor thickness or have you transplanted the rotors too?Did you clean up the pistons - they could be sticking in the bores.

The answer is no you don't need one but they have their advantages. Why do you want two boost levels? Use your right foot to control boost. If you really want two boost levels get the Jaycar unit ( I had one it worked well) and you can have not just two boost maxima but two complete maps.Oh and you can use your stock solenoid.

Don't know if there is any difference - I thought ID just test the bosch and sell you a matched set of six with a flow report.[Don't know this for a fact - stand ready to be corrected]

You'll need another litre may not use all of it.

Stiffer springs won't help with rolling in corners - what suspension do you have now? I have Bilsteins but Tein springs that are too stiff: Front: Tein F SIN78-010311-HCC Rear: Tein R-SIN79- 010382-HCC

Didn't realise you had an auto. Tuning options are very limited - look for a Greddy E-manage to suit your car.

Once in a lifetime? Its not under as much stress as an automatic gearbox - once per 100,000 should be heaps.

Your engine will warm up a lot quicker driving it rather than letting it idle. Get a thermostat for your oil cooler.

You can't tune it that's the problem. Figure out what you're going to do about it before you upgrade the turbo.: Nistune chipped Z32 ecu, Link/Vipec, PFC etc

Don't know if the M<35 is the same as C34 but - I get the car up on stands and run the engine - crack the bleeder at the back of the gearbox extension and keep the reservoir in the boot topped up with atf. Then there is another bleeder on top of the atessa pump above the diff.

Nismo coppermix twin plate are highly recomended for driveability and strength (but not that cheap). I have an unknown single plate aftermarket clutch that came out of the parts GTR I got my gearbox from and it is lasting well but I haven't been to the drags yet and don't do full power launches.

When you push down and let go corner should come up and stop dead (no bounces). Some suspension shops will have a fancy meter they can attach to the car and give you a printout.

Like this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/73-1mm-66-1mm-HUB-CENTRIC-RING-WHEEL-HUBCENTRIC-NISSAN-350Z-19-/280804588611?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item416141fc43

R32 GTR diffs are 4.1:1 and R34 GTR diffs are 3.54:1 so a big difference. Is the car for drag racing or circuit or street only?

Brakes will be fine although I upgraded to GTR one (booster is the same just got GTR m/c) when I got the GTT brakes and now have D2s.