KiwiRS4T

You've been told twice:its metric M5

Mines missing too but looks like about M5 x 15

OEM replacement - people seem to have all sorts of dramas with aftermarket ones.

Z32 afm is orange label code ends in N62

OK who's bought all these stroker kits? Any road or track test or dyno results as yet (keen to hear about the driving experience as well as dyno numbers).

(NZ$) my surge tank was $150 Walbro $200 Bosch 044 $300 Cover for surge tank $300 Insulation and carpet $100 there'e a grand without fuel lines and hours of labour. Unless you're into serious track work (don't laugh, I can't afford another track car) a really grunty in-tank pump is the way to go.

Too much money? Restrictors $10. Bore out and relieve the oil returns $0

My surge tank (3L) is in the car but it is very noisy although I have insulated the cover (was really noisy before). I have a walbro cable tied into the stock cradle and a Bosch 044 out of the surge tank. I would try to put the tank under the rear seat (under the car) if possible.

An obvious answer is that the R33 is longer than the R34 but then again you should be able to make it fit - just a matter of time/money.

Oh and BTW use a quality synthetic oil such as Motul etc.

I got the 5in. Just make it fit. Flow is everything. In and out is 3in but you can cut the taper to acheive 3.5 or 4in in and out if you need to later.

Have you read this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/page__hl__sk+oil+control ?? Having read it twice despite some disagreements a pattern emerges: Fit restrictors as per the table dependant on which pump you are using and whether you have solid lifters / vct (or whatever you decide is right) but do fit them ($10 ea or per pair). Drill out and or relieve the oil returns in the head (nothing crazy about that and no cost if you do it before you install the engine) Then there is the question of the fitting at the back of the head. Is it a drain or a vent? My vote is that its a vent - particularly if you have already done 1 and 2 above so I won't be putting a fitting on the back of the head but I will be putting a vent from the rhs of the sump esp since RB30s seem more prone to spewing oil and the theory is that pressure build up in the sump is a contributing factor ( although 1 and 2 above may take care of it). Bigger sump and oil cooler seem sensible for a track car and will probably mean stock radiator will cope fine.

^^^as above - none of the shifters in the Nengun ad will fit - you need an awd one 32339 - RN595 The Stagea box is the same as GTR which is the same as GTT only plus a transfer case so I guess it will be the same to drive (i.e. incredibly notchy etc). See the nismo website: http://www.nismo.co....df/clutch14.pdf

Hundreds of RB30s have been built from bargain basement stockers like yours and mine to over 1000hp and sub 8 second quarters. If you have some remarkable new insight that has escaped all these people spit it out now - don't keep us in suspense. BTW its ok to use stock crank and rods but you should get new, better rod bolts.

I have replaced my ecu with a Link which goes in the same case so I have all the guts (board) for sale which you would need to put in your existing case. Was running perfectly in my S1 R4ST. $100 posted anywhere.

I would buy a new one from an SAU retailer (I did) . If you are going to buy an Ebay knock-off there are two issues - reliabilty as in accuracy... and length of life. The second factor only time will tell but the first you really need to do back to back tests with a known good one.The rumour is that they are not accurate but I am sure everyone will be gratefull if you are willing to do the testing.

RB26 head stock is obviously better than a 25 stock head but I don't see it being cheaper. I got a Greddy copy FF plenum for the 25 head on my RB30 for $300 new and about $30 for the adapter to use my stock throttle body. RB26 heads in good nick are not that cheap and you will need a new exhaust setup and new injectors etc - but you will have a good setup when its done.

Find someone who can weld. Improvise! Locate the core where the pipes have somewhere to go and then you just need to weld on a couple of tabs top and bottom and bolt them to something solid.Get a thinner aircond fan if necessary and cut away any non -structural bits that get in the way.

+15 will stick out somewhat - you'll have to deal to your guards (see the pic above #342 of my car with +30 - ---+15 will stick out half an inch more and my gaurds have been pushed out about 20 mm

Our Nissans are 66.1 centre bore. Unless you get some Nissan specific rims most aftermarket items have a centre bore of 73.1mm. You can get plastic locating rings but better to get metal ones like this: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/wheels-tyres/other/auction-421179978.htm

You don't need the e-boost controller - just need a suitable solenoid and Link will do all your boost control functions including multiple maps etc.

Took the car to Nizfest on the weekend - a club day at Hampton Downs - Z club, Primera club and my club: Skylines Downunder - which has a Stagea section. Didn't take part in the show and shine or Gymkhana but had a track session. The new RB30 setup is not fully sorted yet (will post up details and charts when it is) but still fast enough to beat some of the GTRs (R33 and 34 that is, not the new GTRs) but eventually ended in a cloud of smoke. Will be engine out job to fix some oil control issues (smaller restrictors, head drain, sump breather). But getting there slowly!

My S1 with TE37s (33 GTR offset: 17x9 +30) using 20mm spacers to make the front the same as the rears, Tyres Contisport 3 255 40 17. I will be going a tad lower still but tyres will tuck in as I have adjustable camber arms front and rear (mainly for my slicks but I won't bother putting them back to stock during the summer).

I have a Japanese language version as do some Aussie members if you are keen.

CV boots are a PITA to do - look for a specialist - they are generally a bit cheaper.