KiwiRS4T

Yes depending on ecu and loom used

Just rip out your climate control etc - it should be pretty obvious what you have to do and probaly just need a drill and maybe some fasteners.

To get back to your original question going by your plans a stock exhaust manifold will be the best bet for you - in any case a new fuel pump should come higher on the list than a fancy manifold.

Found one yet? I could get this one and post it to you for well under AU$100 http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/other/auction-416688533.htm although I would be very surprised if an R33one didn't fit.

Just double declutch in and out of 5th and it will last forever.

Just knock another one out and take it along for a sample. They are M12 x 1.25 pitch. To get the right head just get them from Nissan.

You mean brake fluid? Jack the car up-support on axle stands- clean all the oil you can see - get someone to stomp on the brakes while you look for the source of the leak.

Like this: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/other/auction-414829196.htm

Sell it to this guy - he seems keen on a twin pod setup: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/379022-twin-pods/

I've done it that way on an RB25DET - not too hard. If you want to go the whole hog here is a tutorial: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/73824-adj-camshaft-pulley-new-cam-belt/

Just think of a power target and buy a car that can make it from stock.

Still using my stock fpr on my RB30/25 running a Gt3540 with 550 injectors. Currently making 225awkw at 9 psi will be turning it up to 18 -21 psi soon and looking for 300kw+ Will only be replacing the fpr if it fails to keep up - ok so far.

How much power do you want? How much money do you plan to spend? 1. Get a high flow filter for your airbox. 2. Get a 3in exhaust from the turbo back (up to 300kw) or bigger if you want more. 3. get a Nistune chip or aftermarket computer such as a Link and find a good tuner. 4. Bigger turbo, injectors, new fuel pump 5. Beefed up auto or change to manual with a good clutch Better rotors, pads, Motul RBF600 brake fluid, braided lines, mastercylinder stopper. Better sway bars, lower with Bilstein shocks, better tyres (and wheels). That should keep you busy and poor!

How far out is your camber? You may be able to get it with adjustable bushes.

Re the fronts - in NZ cheap upper front camber arms have been rejected by certifiers as unsafe so we have to buy Cusco or better.

Re above ^^^ turns out I probably have the same manual as the OP - the block section is RB25 only.

I think you'll find the impul ecu cannot be tuned but you may be able to replace the chip - ask someone like Toshi - he may be able to do it but you really want it done in your car not by mail. But if you can stick it on a dyno after you have made the changes - if you're lucky and afrs and timing are acceptable you won't need a retune at this point.

If there is no money in the budget for coilpacks just now you can do the quick fix - pull the coilpacks out and spray them with insulating material - there are a few threads with suggestions - and pull your plugs out and replace them if necessary but in any case gap them down to 0.8mm. BTW I just bought a set of brand new OEM coilpacks for AU$400 off ebay - going fine in my car now - I think ke is an SAU members but doesn't currently have a lsiting.

I have an R32 GTR lsd in my Stagea - not sure about the half shafts as my width may be different from yours.

You can find R33 manuals online or PM me an email address and I will send you one as an attachment.

Don't use Redline shockproof. Use their MT90 (or Motul). http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=46&pcid=7

OS Giken dealers in Canada http://www.osgiken.net/dealers.html#cn

Synchros depend on friction to work. Just change gear a little more slowly or double declutch until you can afford to overhaul your box.

Just get 2 smaller wheels and put them on at the drags. Stock ratio is not that tall anyway.

get a GTR mechanical LSD 6 x 1 half shafts and hubs.