KiwiRS4T

ATF or diff? Diff oils Motul, Agip, Castrol, Redline, Nulon...depends on how much you want to pay! ATF any quality synthetic or semi synthethic or just any that meets at least Dextron 3 standard

The gasket between the top and bottom of the plenum. Happened to me. Guy doing the tune (not my current tuner) swapped in some bigger injectors and misaligned the gasket. Made a really strange noise and was hard to track down. My guess for a likely suspect as (possibly one) of the problems here.

Why did you put the 50mm alloy one in? Was the stock one with viscous fan not coping?

I doubt that the airbox and panel filter is the problem. I have made 260awkw with the stock box, snorkel and a pipercross filter. Would be interested to see once the boost problem is solved whether putting the airbox (without all the holes bore in it!) back on kills the power.

Rips will ship you a short block machined to various stages: http://www.ripsltd.com/products.html

Have you checked the plenum gasket? Still my prime suspect.

Any E10 is safe to use and the higher octane the better. For highly tuned engines the problem is the same as with E85 although on a smaller scale - namely that the actual ethanol content and rating of the fuel can vary which matters when your engine is tuned to the outer limits. For such engines the way forward seems to be the "flexi" approach where the fuel quality is sampled by a special sensor before it reaches the injectors and an adjustment made automatically through your Link, Vipec or other high performing aftermarket ecu. However for stock or less modified engines the difference particularly with E10 should not be significant.

Have you read the sticky "need a new clutch" at the top of the page?

OK I've read the hypergear thread. I hope you've cooled down a bit. Not good to vent online. Your major problem seems to be lack of boost and apart from a cheap and nasty boost controller which may not be the problem my guess would be as above - the gasket between the top and bottom of the plenum. It is easy to misalign and will result in boost loss including a funny screech at high revs ( I speak from personal experience here). If the gasket is in fact distorted you can buy a metal reinforced one which will hold its shape better and is more likely to stay in the correct position so definitely woth double checking.

OK ( there is virtually no difference between 4.111 and 4.083) so put your Stagea diff in the front or if you don't have one get a GTR diff - they arte quite common as people bin the front diff when they convert their RB26s to put in a Sylvia etc.

If you can't or don't want to do your own work ( I can but I am too tired/old/can't be ...) then it becomes very important to find a mechanic or workshop in whom you can have full confidence and price is a secondary consideration as a cheaper cr*p job just ends up costing you more. Did the same shop do the clutch and the tune? Clutch should have included new pressure plate, driven plate, release bearing and spigot bearing and any leaks should have been reported to you. Who did the tune? Are you happy with the result? Post up the charts! If you disconnect the hose to the actuator it will free boost til it goes bang! You can have a major boost leak without the pipes coming off so you need to check all the clamps and if necesary paint with soapy water to look for leaks. Otherwise take it back to the tuners ( maybe ring them first and describe your problem). Do you have the stock inlet manifold? If it has been taken apart (say to fit new injectors) then if the gasket is misaligned and squeezed it will make a horrendous noise. New metal based gasket is better. Could be leak from turbo mounting gasket

SF DIS 008 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/228296-splitfire-coil-packs-4cly-55000-6cly-59400/

Did you replace the release bearing when you did the clutch? Does the noise change when you depress the clutch pedal? Other ideas - cam belt or other drive belts - try turning the aircond on and off. Pull the top cambelt cover off and have a look at the belt for damage or misalignment. Have you had your tune? Shouldn't be doing high revs if you haven't.

Thanks for the link. I'll try to get me an OEM set.

Andy McKenzie (X-tune) I think Soichi (Hytech) and one or two others. Maybe you could get along to one of Andre Simon's seminars http://www.speedtechnz.com/Training/EFI+Tuning+Stage+1.html although they are a bit pricey.

These guys will sell you a street version of the Powerglide: http://www.nealtrans.com/racing-transmissions.html

I am sure that if stockers were half the price of Splitfires there wouldn't be many splitfires sold. OEM coils from Nissan are over $1000 a set here. Can you point me to a good price source for OEM coils - even at the same price as Splitfires I would buy them.

If you look around you can buy a Pipercross filter (not oiled) PX-PP1128. Also fits rally evos and falcon!

Have you got your snow button on? That locks out 1st.

Sorry was someone else in your thread with an auto. Your stock ecu only has 3 ignition drivers. Seems like an odd reason to knock an ecu that has performed well in plenty of race cars, drag cars and lots of members street and or track cars (including mine). Admittedly it is a significant investment and Nistune would be better value for you if you could get it up to Auckland or down to Christchurch for a tune (even with a wideband I fear you will destroy your own engine!).

Yes - the crap can block the drain holes causing the bottom of the door to rust. Check the accessories that came with your vacuum cleaner - there is often some kind of wand for hard to reach places.

If you doubt the value of cold air you no doubt don't run an intercooler. The simplest cold air box is the OEM one together with its snorkel and a high flow panel filter but if you want a shield for your pod(s) they are easy to make. Do a search in the Skyline section - there are a couple of good articles on how to do it for very little cost. A while back SK did the testing with two temp sensors demonstrating the hugh difference between ambient and underbonnet temps. I haven't read any articles saying heat shields are for "wank factor". Most people understand the need - not everyone gets around to making one.

Doesn't have to be a Neo but Neo has more power, GTR rods - whatever it is make sure you get the ecu and loom.

There is an alternative - some people have managed to source OEM coilpacks at not much more than Splitfires and the Nissan ones have a track record of being good for at least 10 years - some are still going strong after 15 years.

You would be better off to put your Stagea diff in the front (4.083:1) or better still a pair of GTR diffs so that you have a decent mechanical LSD. Stagea is already low geared in my opinion and 4.3 is just too low.