KiwiRS4T

If its that bad try grinding a couple of flats on it and using a spanner (after soaking it overnight with CRC or similar).

You should be able to get Motul RBF600 from any bike shop for about half that price.

Look at how a sway bar works and consider its proper name: anti-roll bar. If you go over a judder bar just to be extreme the left and right arms go up in unison and down in unison just swivelling in their mounts and thus have no effect on the car. Its is only when you throw the car into a turn that the arms move in opposite directions and exert a twisting motion on the bar which will tend to return to its original shape thus reducing roll. To test a shock as above ^^^: push heavily down on a corner of the car and let go. It should bounce back up and stop dead. If it starts to go down again of its own accord its stuffed. Alternatively some suspension shops will repeat this test for free with a meter attached which will measure the the rebound and give you a printout.

The point of a wing is to create downforce and hence grip on fast corners. The down side is that it will slow you down on a fast straight. What I don't know is at what speeds it actually works on a skyline as opposed to an open wheeler - I suspect some where above 140- 150km/hr at least. Therefore if you decide to have a massive rear wing I should think it would need to be adjustable to suit different circuits or ideally adjustable for different parts of the circuit but depending on what kind of racing you are planning there are probably category regulations about the kinds of spoilers you can run. The University of Auckland has a wind tunnel you could fit a full sized car into - it would be worth investigating who in Australia could provide such a facility.

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If you're going to that much trouble why don't you buy a proper exhaust gas temperature gauge c/w thermocouple?

^^^ Rods are GTR items - same part number

Sorry must have dreamed the bit about the GTT Still think Nistune with an appropriate ecu swap is the best value for the OP but Link from NZ is NZ$1895 so even with a temp sensor and postage it will be well under $2K

O well if you want to be pedantic toe in is 2mm l+r

If you have a S2 you can switch to 2wd as per the instructions or if your'e keen drop the front driveshaft to eliminate the attessa. Are all your tyres the same type and roughly the same state of wear? ( I think this unlikely as your cause but its easy to eliminate). I can send you an afm. Only trouble is I am assured it is good but not using one now as I have a G4 Link computer. Have you eliminated the O2 sensor? I think the easy way to do that is to just unplug it and go for a drive. If you want to try my afm I just want the postage at this point and worry about the rest later (AU$60 to buy, postage probably about $20 - can let you know if interested).

?? I'm not running any toe out. Tyres are wearing evenly.

As you have a Neo engine you could get a Nistune chip and get much the same results. You will not really get the benefits of the Vipec over the Nistune if you are not planning to upgrade the turbo etc. You should probably still get a new fuel pump as an insurance against failure.

I think you're very lucky to have such a wife! Apart from the practical advantages its great to have a partner who shares an interest in car engineering :)

Their targets aren't too bad except for toe-in and you won't get enough castor without adjustable arms so your final result isn't too bad ecept for toe in and rear camber. Here is my street specs based mainly on SK's chart and my own experience: Nissan Stagea RS4T Front Target Caster Left positive 6 degrees Right positive 5.75 degrees Camber Left 1.0 degree negative Right 1.0 degree negative Toe in Left zero Right zero Rear Camber Left negative 0.5 degrees Right negative 0.5 degrees Toe in Left minus 2mm Right minus 2mm

One sold only 1 left!

I have a pair of RB25DET AFMs (Pink label E60) in good working order (1 with plug). This is a cheaper upgrade for GTR than Z32 or Nismo and said to support up tp 450rwkw. Both have mesh intact (you can see from pics that one has a tiny pin hole in the mesh) and one comes with a plug. Cheap at AU$100 posted to anywhere in Australia.

Delivered 40L of fresh E10 to the workshop to replace the dregs that have been sloshing round in my tank for the past many months. Surge tank is now set up with 044, battery is in boot and should be off to tuner to install G4 and see if it actually goes by end of week!

Wouldn't it be easier in a sphere?

That's before its even started. Figure it will get pretty hot around there.

Just get the R33 speedo sender to go with the diffs. (Or a jaycar unit as above).

You don't want to scrimp on suspension, brakes or steering if you value your life or that of others! Your springs may be ok - just need the shocks. A good suspension shop should be able to tell if your spring rates are appropriate for your car.

Just to spell it out conservative old gits like me think its immature to want a noisy bov to draw attention to the fact that you have a turbo - especially when you are just being out - dragged by a Honda so recommend that you stay with the stock set up. However if you really want you will be able to fit an atmos bov and still keep your car running. The best way would be to fit an ecu that doesn't require an afm (E-Manage, F-Con) so that running is not affected but unless you are looking for big power down the road that's probably too expensive a way to go and there are other ways. It is not illegal to vent your bov to atmosphere in New Zealand so may not be in Germany either. BTW anyone tried moving the afm between the bov and the throttle body? Could be a bit of a mission on an VQ I guess.

Sadly you can't Nistune the S1 Stagea (or the R33 Skyline) ecu - only the S2 or R34 Skyline.

Unless its tunable, which I doubt, it will be as much use as a Mines ecu or a brick i.e. just a paperweight.

Good work -exhaust next on the list or is it already done?