KiwiRS4T

Here a how to with some pictures which may help: http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1492788 (As a matter of interest I think it was written by the guy who expressed an interest in bringing his (masa fronted) stagea to Aus)

The cradle clips to the bottom of the tank. From memory ( and I could be wrong) you just grab the rh end of the cradle (not just the lid) and rip it up. (I'll try to have a look at mine on Monday - its in the workshop). Yes the Walbro is much thinner than the stocker - mine is wrapped in some foam stuff and cable tied to the cradle. You may also have to change the electrical connections. What may be a simple job for some people can be a major for others. It is definitely a fiddly job. My first time took me virtually all day ( with coffee and meal breaks) and the second about an hour.

I have a Walbro in my Stagea bought brand new from NZ performance in Christchurch. It worked well but now it is directly wired by a heavy cable from the battery and a relay. This has supported up to 260rwkw at 16psi but now it is just filling the surge tank from which a Bosch 044 will supply the engine ( with an aim of 300 - 330 rwkw). Car is close to going to the tuner. There are many happy Walbro users although they did get a bad name for a while because apparently there were some underperforming fakes on the market. In a head to head with the Bosch 044 the Bosch comes out ahead at higher boost numbers BTW bit of a provocative headline and what do you mean by "claim to have a walbro"? What's your beef?

First of all get an RB20 actuator - simple, cheap and stock looking. If that's not enough you could get a JayCar boost controller. It uses the stock boost solenoid (it would take a very switched on cop to notice the difference) and the only connections are to the ecu so you can put it in the glove box. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/61207-jaycar-boost-and-fuel-control/

I bought the 5in Venom cat and had it welded in (no flanges) as I am not planning to remove it. I have a 3in system looking for about 300 -330kw from my RB30. We need a cat for low volume certification these days but the certifiers do not do comprehensive exhaust gas analysis - I suspect these 100 cell metal cats would not pass - would be interested if anyone has been through a test with one.

Do the world and yourself a favour and bin the Mines ecu. Your fuel pump is getting old so if you have plans for more kw down the track you could look into getting a new pump that will fit with your plans. Nistune is the most cost effective way to get tuneability.

A number of GTRs here have swapped for the R33GTR diffs for better pickup or for track. Just remember you need both diffs and you are looking for a V spec active diff R33.

No speedcut on mine - I have a Link ecu. I need the speedo correcter to go with the 300km/hr speedo dials I have had printed. Duncan is yours an S1 or S2? My dials are S1 type - only $30 incl postage!

I asked Chook who had one installed years ago and he said it was a wire going into the speedo cluster but that was all. Two wires are just a power supply and an earth and the other two interrupt the spedo signal. I would be really happy if you can work out which wire that is as otherwise not being very good at electrics I willl have to go to my local RB guru who will work it out.

Whereabouts are you ? Do you have access to the parts and services you require? You could consider buying an engine, short block or full works from RIPS. http://www.ripsltd.com/products.html He has sent engines all around the world - in fact people send their cars to him from England etc but you may not want to go that far. Alternatives include: http://www.hytechengines.co.nz/info.php?info_id=16 or someone will point you to the Aussie suppliers.

Not sure you can get 800 hp and fast response Also I think theres a little more to getting 600kw than just bolting on a couple of bigger turbos plus you may want to have a look at your suspension and braking.

Blue hose has been replaced with a metal pipe!

As I recall the Z32 bolts straight up. You will need a new plug and there are instructions on how to wire it above.

Just going to the tuner but looking for 300 - 330 awkw. I got a complete R32GTR rear end for $300 but that was a bargain. Normally $300 - $400 for the lsd, axles and hubs $100 a side and. I even got the GTR rear brakes.

My water bottle is going to be relocated to the passenger side so I figure there will be room on the drivers side in the guard,

I suppose it depends on how much power you will be making and the width of your tyres but with my RB30 installation I have got a GTR rear end - mechanical lsd and stronger 6x1 axles.

Minimum tyre width for 9in is 235.

I put GTT brakes on my Stagea with 17in rims. What sort of brake fluid? I use Motul RBF600, with Mintex pads. have a look at the Racebrakes site.

What is the diameter and thickness of your current rotors?

If you have the viscous lsd any mechanical lsd would ne an improvement.

What car, what engine? All listed here: http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competition/lsd/pdf/lsd_price.pdf

How wide are your TE37s?And what is the offset?

Best place for your wastegate is off the turbo housing:

Not bad at all. I imagine the stock GTR is somewhat lighter than your wagon.

Just installed some Recaros in my S1 yesterday - used universal sliders and R32 mounts