KiwiRS4T

That's if your engine survives their mistakes!!! Do you want to risk a $10,000 rebuild for the sake of a few hundred dollars? The tune is the most important element in the process.

Did you reuse the same half shafts? The axles on my Stagea are different left and right - now have GTR diff and had to find suitable 6 x 1 axles.

No contest - RBF600 all the way. Dry boiling point 312deg C (Valvoline 275) Wet 216 (Valvoline 175)

Take you 5 minutes to remove the top cam cover - see if the belt is too tight or fraying etc. Mark the CAS so it goes back on in the exact same place and don't turn the engine at all while doing this.

Have you had a read of this thread? http://www.skylinesa...recomondations/ Just on reputation I would go with Guilt Toy's recommendation or else EFI but ideally you would talk to some happy customers first. If you have audible knock at 4000 I would knock the timing back a bit, really baby the car and get a tune ASAP (and expect to pay $700 to $1000 for a top notch first tune - so best you have all your stuff installed and do it once)!

Yep thanks I will have a look for a car pc thread. Not sure an ordinary laptop would last too long anyway. The touch screen feature is not essential as I could just set up the gauges I want to monitor anyway - could probably display four on the screen at once ok.

Guy in Wellington is using an old laptop and a 7in touch screen to display the info from the Link (Vipec) display. Its cheaper than the factory Display Link and a bigger screen. I would like to copy it but I am short of space and my car has to be a cruiser as well as a track car so I want my radio and cd player as well. Does anyone know if I can get the Laptop display onto one of those all in one double din DVD/CD/ Radio/GPS units with the 7in touch screen? They advertise that they have twin audio and video inputs but they don't have the vga interface. Is this a goer or do I need a dedicated touch screen for the Link display?

Doubt it would be a problem ...but can't see it doing much for your stopping power. Just put them in the garage till you find some fronts as well and do the lot.

So have you had the ecu tuned when it was installed or is the tune still to come?

Maybe you could pull the light stalk off and change the order of the wires.

You could disable the auto lights by not turning them on!!? And why would you want to run with parkers? In this country itis illegal to run on parkers only - i.e. if its dark enough to trigger your auto lights you need your headlights on.

Serious solutions: a well installed well hidden alarm with al the usual triggers and a GPS locating device plus 3 or 4 hidden incar sirens or horns to deafen the thief and a fogger device like this: http://autowatch.co....rms-fogoff.html some more extreme solutions: [warning: bad taste content]

If your temp gauge is wired correctly the Nistune should make no difference. There are two sensors near your thermostat. There is one sender for your gauge in the dash and that is completely seperate from the ecu. The other sender goes to the ecu. I would have thought the torque gauge is also independant of the engine ecu but I don't know that for a fact. Maybe a battery or alternator problem?

Guy in Wellington is using an old laptop and a 7in touch screen to display the info from the Link (Vipec) display. Its cheaper than the factory Display Link and a bigger screen. I would like to copy it but I am short of space and my car has to be a cruiser as well as a track car so I want my radio and cd player as well. Does anyone know if I can get the Laptop display onto one of those all in one double din DVD/CD/ Radio/GPS units with the 7in touch screen? They advertise that they have twin audio and video inputs but they don't have the vga interface. Is this a goer or do I need a dedicated touch screen for the Link display?

Nice car! +1 for Bilsteins. I see some mods have been done already - clear indicators, R34 GTR rims? Have you got upgraded rear sway bar? One of the biggest value improvements available - check the group buy here v what you can source in the UK.

My first Stagea was a late model Series 1 but had a Neo n/a engine - it was quite zippy. When I got my next Stagea another Series 1 but a turbo version (with the S2 R33 RB25DET) I was very disappointed how little more go it had than my n/a Neo version. It was only when I started spending some $$ on it that it started to get up and go. Factory flywheel figures (just for comparison): RB25DE 139.75kw RB25DET 172.84 RB25DE (Neo) 147.10 RB25DET (neo) 205.94 So an R33 should be able to be converted to a Neo just by swapping the rods and pistons and the head and manifolds - although no doubt a six boost and FF plenum would do even more!

If you are keeping the bottom end stock (i.e. not rebored and forged etc ) a GT3076 will give you all the power you can handle - 300 - 330kw. A GT35 is good for a lot more than the stock RB25 can cope with.

This is the correct way. Should be run in before it leaves the dyno. If you run it in gently it will never bed in properly and always use oil. Not to say you should be holding it to the limiter the minute you get out the door!

From memory you take out the crownwheel and then knock the pinion in but before you take to it with a sledgehammer get someone to confrim that! Here's a bit of a long winded how to (I'm a bit rougher myself) - you can put it back together yourself but ideally its properly set up by a diff shop or you could just get a complete diff and swap it over: http://www2.dana.com/pdf/AXSM-0053.pdf

^^^was just going to say the same thing - just grab it and stick it in your engine bay and have a look. If bolt pattern is the only thing holding you back you could redrill them. And let us know how you get on!

I used a Pipercross filter for a couple of years no problems PX-PP1128 (same as Evo or WRX can't remember) google for your nearest stockist. in Aus.

Well done! Did you cut all the wires off the old plug and solder them on to another plug or did you get a loom extension?

You will not get any more power from the Vipec for $3500 than you would from the Nistune for $1200 to $1500 installed and tuned. However if you are set on a Vipec you should get an extra 20 -30 kw maybe more - there are too many variables- and if your coils, plugs etc etc are all in good nick it should drive nicely. On the upside you will not have to get an elecronic boost controller as with the right solenoid the Vipec will do that and will also be able to ditch your afm and won't have to upgrade it if you decide to go for 250+kw later.

If the tuner is used to using a sensor in the tail pipe he should be able to do a good job but both tuners i use will put another bung in the down pipe for their sensor if there is not a spare already, Just takes a few minutes and then its there for next time.

Shockproof is not very good for your box but if you must, use the lightweight version. It will not improve cold action. Better to use Redline MT 90 http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=46&pcid=7